Would like when my M&P .38 spec. was made and if it is safe to shoot target loads.

snuffy51

Member
Joined
Sep 4, 2015
Messages
2,784
Reaction score
3,278
Location
Tennessee
Would like when my M&P .38 spec. was made and if it is safe to shoot target loads.

Hi! I'm brand new here. I have a .38 spec. M&P 5 screw I just bought today, it was too pretty to pass up. It is a hand ejector square butt. Serial #315083 on bottom of grip frame. Serial # matches on cylinder and bottom of barrel. Patent dates on top of barrel are Sept. 14 09 & Dec. 22 14. It has wood S&W grips that covers the rear screw on the side plate, # stamped inside both grips is 143815. The barrel measures 3 & 5\8 inches from front of cylinder. Bore is bright with no pitting, rifling is still sharp. Cylinder bores are 99%. Very slight rings in a couple. No rust or stains anywhere except looks like front sight blade was soldered back on and maybe barrel re-crowned and never properly refinished, I can fix that. I would like to know when it was made and if it safe to shoot. I read anything before 1920 should only use LRN standard loads. It sure is pretty.
 
Register to hide this ad
The best I can do on the date for sure is say that it was made between 1915 and 1942. That range covers 241704-700000, so I would estimate yours to be made between 1915-1920. And it sounds like the grips on your gun are not original. I'd wager, based on your description, that they are later-style magna grips. And yes, your gun will be perfectly safe to shoot with target loads, and I'd say it would shoot very nicely.

Now, you say it sure is pretty. I say, I need to see some pictures to believe you[emoji1]
 
Hi! thanks for the info. You'll have to trust me on the description. Never had much use for computers, always worked with my hands and head. I'm doing good typing this. Thanks again.
 
Hi! thanks for the info. You'll have to trust me on the description. Never had much use for computers, always worked with my hands and head. I'm doing good typing this. Thanks again.


You will be a much better typist when you get to a 1,000 posts. We all started out computer challenged. My only advantage was Typing Class in high school around 1965. I later determined it was the most valuable engineering course I ever took.

Welcome to the Forum.
 
You will be a much better typist when you get to a 1,000 posts. We all started out computer challenged. My only advantage was Typing Class in high school around 1965. I later determined it was the most valuable engineering course I ever took.

Welcome to the Forum.

I remember teasing a fellow male high school student for taking typing, asking if he intended to be a secretary.

DUH!

Not the first mistake I ever made in regards to schoolwork. Did I mention that I could have gone to college for one additional year and gotten an engineering degree? NOOOO, I wanted to graduate and go out and wear a badge and a gun.

Where is the smilie for beating your head against a wall?
 
Welcome! The serial number suggests it is from late 1919 to early 1920. If it is mechanically sound it should be fine with standard pressure .38 Special loads. It will probably be best with 158 gr lead of any kind and 148 gr wadcutters in terms of printing near the sights.

If the barrel is 3 5/8" it has been shortened; the standard lengths at that time were 4, 5 and 6", so if someone took 3/8" off a 4" barrel and reattached the front sight they went through a lot of work for not much change. Enjoy!
 
Previous dating for your M&P is correct, it likely shipped late 1919-early 1920. For any of the earlier M&Ps, lead bullet standard velocity loadings will always be best. That's the only ammunition that was available at the time, and there is really no good reason to use anything else. If the grips are not numbered to match the SN of the gun, they are not original. S&W was transitioning at the time from grips which had small recessed gold medallions to those with a rounded convex top without medallions, so I suppose either style could be period correct for yours.
 
Hi! I'm brand new here.
Welcome to the Forum!

Serial #315083 on bottom of grip frame.
Almost certainly made in 1919, but it could have shipped in 1920. Serial number 316648 was the first to get heat treatment on the cylinder and that happened in September, 1919.

Patent dates on top of barrel are Sept. 14 09 & Dec. 22 14.
I think if you look very closely, you will see that the last date is actually December 29, 1914. I believe this patent applies to the hammer block and the change was implemented in 1915 (the so-called 4th Change).

It has wood S&W grips that covers the rear screw on the side plate
As noted above, this means it is wearing stocks that are no earlier than about 1935 and probably later than that.

Alan has your ammo question exactly right, in my opinion.
 
To the Original Poster: Welcome to the forum. Pull up a chair and sit on the floor. Coffee is almost ready...rinse out one of those cups over there. Make yourself miserable.

Sounds like a nice M&P you got there.

You will be a much better typist when you get to a 1,000 posts. We all started out computer challenged. My only advantage was Typing Class in high school around 1965. I later determined it was the most valuable engineering course I ever took.

Welcome to the Forum.

Back when I was in high school, I took not one, but three years of typing. At the time there was a pretty serious shooting war going on and I figured "company clerk" sounded safer than "rifleman."

I too, got ragged on a bit by a few guys about it...You gonna be a secretary?"...Until I pointed out...28 girls in the class. Two guys. Do the math.
 
The OP asked if it was safe to shoot. I will chime in and say that it is only safe if you use the correct ammo, the weapon is still in proper working order, and has no issues such as catastrophic cracks or other defects. Best to have a gunsmith give it the "once over" since no one can even give anything but a speculative guess without seeing the revolver and inspecting it. I think all of what I said is obvious, and I mean no disrespect in reminding the OP of this, but better to make a reminder than have someone hurt. What prompts me to make this reminder is the mention of the barrel length and the soldered-on front sight. Modifications outside the factory always raise additional questions and concerns.

Stay safe!
 
Regarding typing, I once had a really great boss who was drafted during the Korean War. He was in an Army combat outfit which was headed for Korea. Apparently there was a need for a company clerk or something similar requiring office skills, and it turned out that he was the only one who had taken typing in high school and knew how to type. So he never saw combat. He often said that he felt that high school typing course saved his life.

I had another co-worker, the story this time involving WWII and the Navy. He also knew how to type, therefore was sent to some Navy office in , I think, Cleveland for the entire war. Thing was, the office was staffed mainly by WAVES. lots of them. He said that period was by far the best in his life, and he hated to see the war end.
 
You must be bored as I am to actually to have seen that. Thanks for the reply. I used to think it would cool to live there but I watched the shows on TV and couldn't stand up to the work it would take. I just joined a couple of days ago and was wondering how people get side tracked on a subject. Now I know. It's kinda fun.
 
It sounds like it is in good working order but I am glad you are going to be cautious and safely test it.

I usually use 158 grain bullets in a .38 Special. Standard loads are fine with me. Occasionally I shoot +P but when I do, I stay away from light bullets.
 
Is the serial number on the butt centered or offset to the rear?
Is there a letter stamped on the butt, like a V?
Exactly what is the caliber marking on right side of barrel?


This makes me wonder if you have a British Service Revolver originally chambered in 38 S&W that was reamed to 38 Special:
Cylinder bores are 99%. Very slight rings in a couple. No rust or stains anywhere except looks like front sight blade was soldered back on and maybe barrel re-crowned and never properly refinished, I can fix that.
 
Reply for handejector on old M&P

Serial #315083 is in the center of the bottom of the handle, no letter anywhere. Patent dates on barrel Sept. 14 09 and Dec 29 14. Think it might have born at 5 or 6 inch, been cut off and re-crown at 3 5/8". Nice smooth looking job. Only blemish on whole gun is rust stain on top half of barrel from just behind front blade sight . Already got that rubbed out smooth. Fits my K frame 4" holsters perfect. Tried it out yesterday with 50 rounds of American Eagle 158 LRN on 8" metal plate at nine yards. Shot fine holding on bottom center of plate, it is very dead now.












































.
 

Attachments

  • full.jpg
    full.jpg
    54.4 KB · Views: 6
  • butt.jpg
    butt.jpg
    36.8 KB · Views: 8
  • serial.jpg
    serial.jpg
    42.1 KB · Views: 7
  • cylinder.jpg
    cylinder.jpg
    36.6 KB · Views: 7
  • barright.jpg
    barright.jpg
    59.5 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:
I also have an H&R 925 (4"), just like new. It's one of my favorite fun guns, and it shoots about as good a group as any other revolver I own. I reload for .38 S&W, so no ammo problems for me. I did have to replace the hammer spring strut, as the original ones had a plastic foot, which didn't last. But Numrich has all metal ones, not too expensive, and easily replaced.
 
Last edited:
I second all of that.

You will be a much better typist when you get to a 1,000 posts. We all started out computer challenged. My only advantage was Typing Class in high school around 1965. I later determined it was the most valuable engineering course I ever took.
Welcome to the Forum.
I totally agree with Engineer1911...and my typing course was in the summer of 1952 funded by the city. Well spent 6 weeks. Welcome also from Northern Virginia. - 'ole joe :)
 
I remember teasing a fellow male high school student for taking typing, asking if he intended to be a secretary.

I took typing in high school, got up to about 50 WPM without mistakes.
It worked out great for me for report typing, now it's all computer, but still have to type.
Glad I took the class. :D
 
Back
Top