Model 19

rpg0123

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I just bought a pristine model 19-5 4" barrel. The appearance of it is excellent, and the accuracy of it is unbelievable. It has a target hammer and trigger. My question for those of you who are more experienced with the mechanics of revolvers - if I had a couple duds with cheaper ammo (Rem UMC and Win White Box), do I need to be concerned about a firing pin problem or was this just the ammo? My guess is it's just the standard ammo issue, but I have a 3-day return window, so I'm wanting to be sure. Anybody have any comments?
 
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If you experienced a few misfires with factory ammo, the first thing to do is remove the grips and check the the tightness of the mainspring tension screw. It should be fully tightened.

Some more test firing is in order. Various conditions can cause misfires: faulty ammo, backed-off mainspring tension screw, excessive cylinder endshake, , and so on. Best to check it out before the end of the 3-day trial acceptance period.
 
You should not have a misfire. Like John said, check that first.
If it's tight, something else is wrong.
Does the cylinder have a lot of back and forth play?
Open the cylinder and let the hammer drop. Does the firing pin show well through the flash hole?
 
Am I correct that if it did have a mechanical issue I could have it worked on? Are parts - ie, firing pin, and whatnot still available?
 
Absolutely you could have it fixed! I'd almost bet though that nothing is wrong with it except someone backing out the mainspring tension screw that's located on the leading front edge of the butt.

Lots of folks think that this will lighten the trigger pull, but any Smith will have duds if you back that thing out . . . especially shooting double action (the long-stroke trigger pull way).

Tighten that screw and you'll have an incredibly accurate and reliable handgun.

IF you do end up having other problems, post your questions/concerns here and we can point ya in the right direction . . . either to competent folks in your area, or point you to the S&W factory. Smith still provides great service for their revolvers.

Welcome to the forum. You'll be amazed what you'll learn here . . . and a good group of guys and gals here too.
 
In the last year I ordered a gun that would snap DA. The tension screw in the grip had backed out and I tightened it and all is well. Another gun I ordered had a rough place when cocking to shoot SA. I figured $25 to get it to me and $25 to send it back so I kept it. I got it fixed for $25. I have decided if it is not a major problem it is cheaper to have it fixed. Larry
 
I looked at the screw you guys are referring to. It appeared to be fully tightened and flush with the steel. It would not move in or out, and I didn't try to force it. I guess I'll take another range trip tomorrow and try some pricey Hornady and Speer Gold Dot hp's out of it. I did shoot a few of those today, and did not have a dud with these. If I have a misfire with that kind of ammo, I will know it is the gun instead of the ammo. Thanks for the help. This is a nice little forum with a lot of knowledgeable folks. I have definitely been bitten by the classic model S&W bug now. I'm used to shooting a snub Ruger sp101, which is still a nice gun that I like, but I couldn't believe today how the S&W mod 19 full-frame shot the pants off of the Ruger snub. I'm not used to a trigger this smooth either.
 
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Yep, nothing beats the smooth trigger pull of a S&W revolver that's a K-frame (like your M19) or larger with its leaf mainspring. And an incredible trigger is one of the most important things in how well any firearm can be shot!

Are you having any misfires shooting the revolver single action (thumb-cocking first), or just via shooting it double action?

T.

PS: The strain screw SHOULD back out counter-clockwise, though it will be fairly tight to turn. Possibly you may want to put a couple of drops of penetrating oil on the strain screw's threads and let it sit overnight. AND . . .

Always use hollow-ground screw driver bits of the correct size that can be purchased for guns at gunshops. They won't mess up the slots on your screws like the old mechanic's type screw drivers!

Also, sometimes folks grind off the tip of the strain screws so less tension is put on the leaf spring with the screw is turned all the way in. NOT GOOD! In this case, it only involves ordering a new screw from S&W.

Other folks would grind material off the leaf spring . . . again thinking it would make a "lighter" trigger pull. Look for the dreaded evidence of Mr. Dremel Tool on the face of the spring. Leaf springs are cheap too . . . and it is an easy fix.

If these things don't fix it, a firing pin nose that's too short to contact correctly might be the culprit.

All these things are very, very simple for any gunsmith to inspect for quickly . . . and probably he won't charge you for a quick inspection unless you need parts.

New parts for S&W K-frame revolvers are both cheap and plentiful all over the US!

Hope this helps,

Tom
 
PPS: EXPECT THIS THREAD TO BE MOVED SOON TO THE GUNSMITHING SECTION on this site.

It is in that spot that the gunsmiths lurk!

Enjoy your Model 19 . . . your problems are minor and it should be humming along without issues soon . . . for another 100 years or so!

I currently own only one M19, a model 19-5 in nickle plate. Sweet guns . . .

2362114M19L-web.jpg


T.


PS: DATE YOUR SMITH HERE! Post the serial number of your M19 (shown on the heel of the gun's butt). However, for the last two or three numbers, substitute these numbers with xxx.

Kind folks here will look up the date range when your gun was made! (Mine above was made in 1982!)

This place can be addicting!!!
 
Aside - Nice grips. Incidentally, I have American Elk stag panel inserts on my Ruger sp101. Couldn't really stomach keeping plastic on there. Yes it is rather addictive - I'm already wanting a model 10 pencil barrel and a model 36, etc.
 
As mentioned by others...the #1 culprit by far is a reduced pressure mainspring. Either by a backed out mainspring screw or by a modified screw. I would replace the screw before I did anything else.

Cylinder shake and firing pin issues can also cause problems but that mainspring is the 9 out of 10 culprit. :)
 
Second range trip today. Still some misfires. Noticed that the dimple from the firing pin with the misfires was more shallow than with the good fires on the cartridges. Checked the mainspring screw, and it is all the way in. I'm just going to say to heck with it and keep the revolver I guess. Looks like it'll be heading to the smithy tomorrow. Any other suggestions? Anybody think I should send it back rather than keep it? I would like to keep it if the repair costs would be minor with a really good chance it will fix the problem. The gun is otherwise EXTREMELY nice. I guess I'll just go ahead and have it tuned-up so any issues can be addressed since I plan on shooting it regularly. Serial is 171KXXX. Is that the right number to date it with?
 

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Shot 50 rounds through today single action - not a single misfire. I'm guessing this means previous owner did lighten up the mainspring somehow? I'm also guessing that if I have any sense I'll leave it alone and just shoot it single action? It has a great blue finish, a hair trigger, and superb accuracy. Why spend money to tighten the trigger and risk having the finish harmed or losing accuracy just to fire it DA instead of SA? Opinions?
 
Since the trigger is so nice, there's the possibility the strain screw was shortened during an action job. A gunsmith could compare it with an original one, or you could measure it and some of us could check the measurement against ours. A reduced mainspring could also have been installed as part of a action job.

Why don't you find someone who reloads to give you a fired small primer. Remove the anvil from the primer, take a small punch and flatten the dimple in the primer, then loosen the strain screw and put the fired primer over the end of the strain screw, tighten the strain screw and see if the problem improves. If so, you've got a shortened screw or light spring. Then you can decide how to proceed.

I personally wouldn't be satisfied unless the 19 fired reliably in DA mode.

John
 
JT1,

That is a cool Idea, never thought of it, to use the primer as a trouble shooting plug. I like it.
 
Second range trip today. Still some misfires. Noticed that the dimple from the firing pin with the misfires was more shallow than with the good fires on the cartridges. Checked the mainspring screw, and it is all the way in. I'm just going to say to heck with it and keep the revolver I guess. Looks like it'll be heading to the smithy tomorrow.

If the screw is tight , and the firing pin (nose) is not worn down , and
the gun is Clean - it has to be the ammo.

Do you know any revolver shooters who could look at your gun?
 
I talked to a gunsmith who offered to take a look at it for $85. I'm in College Station, Texas, so I'm not sure if that's about the right price around here or what honestly. He basically mentioned the same things you guys did. Said he would take the frame up to look at the firing pin area and the grips off to look at the mainspring. I bet somebody shortened the mainspring screw though - I could check the measurement on it later. I guess I could put it in in the morning. He said it could take about a week. I've never had a gun worked on before - because I've always bought new - so I guess I'm a bit concerned about it coming out worse than it went in. This guy has a good reputation though, so probably not a concern. Is this like a car though with standard maintenance? After 20 years, have the gun inside cleaned and lubed? That sort of thing?
 
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Thanks for you guys' feedback. Went ahead and turned the model 19 in to a gunsmith. I found somebody who would take a look at it for half the price that the other guy said. He said the trigger felt a bit light to him and said he would take a look at the mainspring screw, mainspring, and clean the inside out to get it in tip-top shape. He said it would probably be worth dropping a new factory spring in there to see if that solves the problem. Seems like that's pretty much in-line with what you guys all said?
 
Glad you found a better deal. $85 sounded high to me, but prices vary. Most likely the screw or mainspring is the problem, I hope it works out to your satisfaction. Let us know the results.

John
 
I finally got this gun back from the smith. The trigger is much stiffer. I'll have to take it to the range tomorrow and see how it works.
 
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