Odd flash while shooting 340SC

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While shooting my 340SC today I was going thru rapid fire strings when I noticed a flash of light but no difference in the feel of the round.
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While shooting another string of 5 I got the flash again still no noticeable difference in recoil or sound. When I looked at the gun the titanium cylinder has metallic like burn marks on 2 of the holes. This is the normal look with the 2 in question on both sides.
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This is the worst one.
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This is the other.
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The rounds were 135 SWC cast over 5.2 of Titegroup. A pretty low pressure load for a 357 mag. A little more than a +P 38 special.
I checked the frame and barrel very close thinking maybe I had a cracked frame. I can't find anything except the marks shown.
 
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Thanks for the link.

135 is the lightest thing I shoot in any of my 38/357 after a fail with 125 gr Golden Saber out of my Model 60 on a deer hit by a car. 5 chest shots and that deer was still there for a minute or two.

I like the gun but now?
 
That could be a cylinder lockup problem, since it only happens during rapid fire. It's possible for the cylinder to carry past the locking bolt, and fire out of lockup. That would account for the lead spatter. I'd send to S&W as is (don't clean the cylinder), explain what happened and tell them you think it may be a carryup issue.
 
Like Magnesium, Titanium has a very STRONG affinity for Oxygen, meaning that it will BURN if the proper conditions for temperature are met. It can also strip Oxygen from molecules such as water and trigger a Hydrogen explosion. It's why the owners manual is so specific about NEVER using ANY abrasives on a Titanium cylinder. BTW, if you've been using Lead Away cleaning cloths on that cylinder, you've been using an abrasive. Breech the protective layer on the cylinder and you'll expose raw Titanium to the heat and flame produced by firing.

I expect that odd "flash" vou've been seeing is burning Titanium or a complex byproduct produced by raw titanium stripping oxygen from the combustion gases produced by firing. At this point the only option is to have a new cylinder fitted. Good news is that S&W will most likely cover it under the warranty in spite of the warning in the manual about never using abrasives on the cylinder. Bad news is that IMO it'll happen eventually to any titanium cylinder as a result of gas cutting. It's why I won't purchase a revolver with a Titanium cylinder, sooner or later that cylinder will start to burn.

Following is a link to the safety hazards involved in producing and processing Titanium. You may want to take a look, it goes a long way towards explaining why this particular metal is so expensive.

Safety-Related Problems in the Titanium Industry in the Last 50 Years
 
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I leave the black rings on the front of the cylinder alone on my 340sc. I have a lead away cloth but read never to use it on the titanium cylinder and never have. My cylinder is in great shape. After seeing those pictures I examined mine. Carry alot shoot a little with the 340sc. Never use 110gr .357 in it either. Remington medium velocity or 125gr Golden Sabre also a mid load are just fine. I never carry 38's in it. That's why I have a 442.
 
Sometimes I read some odd things. S&W does not prohibit cleaning Ti cylinders with abrasives - only the face and charge holes. I regularly use a lead away cloth to remove stubborn flash marks from the flutes, with absolutely no harmful results. That Ti cylinders will eventually fail is certain, as will regular steel, stainless steel or any other product of man. I have revolvers with +5K rounds fired from Ti cylinders that still look and perform like new. In any case, S&W is one of the few companies around that still honors it's warranty in a customer-friendly style, so I don't worry about eventual failure of any of my covered revolvers.
 
Like Magnesium, Titanium has a very STRONG affinity for Oxygen, meaning that it will BURN if the proper conditions for temperature are met. It can also strip Oxygen from molecules such as water and trigger a Hydrogen explosion. It's why the owners manual is so specific about NEVER using ANY abrasives on a Titanium cylinder. BTW, if you've been using Lead Away cleaning cloths on that cylinder, you've been using an abrasive. Breech the protective layer on the cylinder and you'll expose raw Titanium to the heat and flame produced by firing.

I expect that odd "flash" vou've been seeing is burning Titanium or a complex byproduct produced by raw titanium stripping oxygen from the combustion gases produced by firing. At this point the only option is to have a new cylinder fitted. Good news is that S&W will most likely cover it under the warranty in spite of the warning in the manual about never using abrasives on the cylinder. Bad news is that IMO it'll happen eventually to any titanium cylinder as a result of gas cutting. It's why I won't purchase a revolver with a Titanium cylinder, sooner or later that cylinder will start to burn.

Following is a link to the safety hazards involved in producing and processing Titanium. You may want to take a look, it goes a long way towards explaining why this particular metal is so expensive.

Safety-Related Problems in the Titanium Industry in the Last 50 Years

scooter123,

I just read through part of the info that you linked. I've decided that I never want Titanium anywhere near me again.
 

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