New S&W Revolver FAIL!!!

...LOL,what do you do if your car breaks a belt and leaves you stranded? sell it? ;)

Maybe... The answer to that question is based on how they handle the issue with their faulty product.

I'm not brand myopic and therefore the ball is in their court. They have the opportunity to sell me future firearms based on how they fix their mistake. I've already met my obligation and paid hard earned money in trade for a reliable handgun. They failed to deliver on their side of the deal and gave me one that totally failed.

If they don't treat me appropriately, I will never show up at their door again!

Edmo
 
My BG38 had problems in the first 100 rounds. I sent it to the factory and they told me it was unrepairable. I bet they tell you the same thing. Since their is a "trust" issue with a PD firearm, I replaced it with a 642CT. I frankly like it a lot better than the BG. The laser on the CT grips is automatic or you can tun it off, you don't have to reach over with your thumb if you want it. The cylinder release is in the same spot as every other revolver, not up on top. You can buy aftermarket grips for every other J frame, I couldn't find anybody who makes aftermarket grips that fit the BG.
Best of luck whatever you do.

Of the light snubbies, the selling points for me with this handgun were the top cylinder release and the top mounted laser. As a lefty, the standard cylinder release is not located in a good spot and the grip lasers are blocked by my grip.

We'll see what they do... I'm still waiting on their shipping label. If they want to replace it with a different model I may just ask for my money back and go elsewhere.

Edmo
 
I am sorry you have to send it in. I am sure S&W will make it right. Not that this helps but I had to send a brand new Ruger SR9C back to the factory after many FTL problems from the 1st day. My M&P .45 has never had 1 problem. My only point is that all mechanical devices can fail. But when it happens to you it is very frustrating.
 
Since you are a southpaw, the BG has definite advantages. I hope they can get you one that works. You for sure want to run a couple hundred rounds through it before you trust it.
Good Luck!
 
My new Bodyguard BG38 snubbie locked up on me yesterday. This is after only one month and one box of ammo since new. At least it failed during a practice session and not when I needed it for protection.

The trigger is locked to the back, the cylinder is locked up, and it will not release and swing out of the gun. I've got a warranty return request in with S&W... We'll see how they take care of business. I've never needed their service with any of my other revolvers so this is new for me.

I've owned S&W revolvers since the mid 1980s and currently have three others besides the Bodyguard. All of them are "lock-less" actions and have generally been used as hunting and hiking guns. They include a 4" Model 629 Mountain Gun, a 6" Model 686, and my first a Model 60 38 Special (non +P) snubbie. The Bodyguard beat this Model 60 in four of the five pocket pistol categories I look for: 1) light weight; 2) accuracy; 3) caliber; 4) snag free design; 5) reliability. Unfortunately, the category it lost is the most important... RELIABILITY !!

With one of my Glocks at my side I'll keep you posted on how S&W handles this recalcitrant little revolver.

Edmo

I got rid of my BG38 after only a short time as there is a problem with the revolver that I found. It is repeatable and others have noticed, although it has been minimized in the gun magazine articles and on this forum.

The problem is apparently inherent to the design and repeatable. When you close the cylinder, you can close it in such a way that the first pull of the trigger will NOT advance the cylinder to the next charge hole. This is readily discoverable through observation and is only noticeable during shooting if you load a single round in the cylinder so that when it advances it is the first round fired. Open and close the cylinder and carefully watch for the cylinder to advance - don't just assume it is. Eventually, you will hit the "sweet spot" and your cylinder will not roll when you pull the trigger.

I know all sorts of people will jump on here and act like it has not happened to them, but it was possible to repeat it with every one of these revolvers I have tried.

The standard J Frame is less expensive and has not exhibited this problem in the 40 years I have been shooting the J Frames. I went back to those models as I lost all trust in the new BG38.
 
Thanks willy!< snip >

I don't think I'm in the market for another wheel gun anytime soon. They apparently require too many rounds to get it good and broken-in (sorry, couldn't help myself!).

< snip >

It's pretty easy to do a lot of that breaking in with snap caps. I've gotten off as many as 200 shots in my 442, single handed, without reloading. (Hollywood has nothing on me.) It's coming up on a year old, and while it's had hundreds of live rounds through it, I'm sure there have been a thousand or two dry fire cycles. And it's getting awfully smooth.

I'll be curious if you hear what went wrong internally in yours. Although as others have said, even if they fix it I think it would take an awfully long time before I trusted it again.
 
It's pretty easy to do a lot of that breaking in with snap caps. I've gotten off as many as 200 shots in my 442, single handed, without reloading. (Hollywood has nothing on me.) It's coming up on a year old, and while it's had hundreds of live rounds through it, I'm sure there have been a thousand or two dry fire cycles. And it's getting awfully smooth.

I'll be curious if you hear what went wrong internally in yours. Although as others have said, even if they fix it I think it would take an awfully long time before I trusted it again.

Wrangler, although this revolver has only 50-60 live rounds through it, I do the same and fire my handguns often with snap caps. It has easily over 150 snap cap shots (more like 300) and I routinely work on my trigger pull and the smoothing up the gun while watching TV. I do this with my semi autos as well. Snap caps are also great at the range to induce a failure to fire requiring a "Tap-Rack-Bang" clearing drill.

I'll let you know what they find. I submitted my return label request this past Friday, so I expect something from S&W early this next week. Hopefully they have a more detailed repair description than some I've heard of in the past... "repaired gun - function check good."

Shawn Mc, my BG38 would do the same rotation thing you found on your revolver. None of my other revolvers (S&W or Ruger) have this trait. Back when this paper-weight worked it would always aligns a hole with the barrel before it snapped the firing pin... However, the hole may not be the next one in the logical rotation.

Edmo
 
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My new Bodyguard BG38 snubbie locked up on me yesterday. This is after only one month and one box of ammo since new. At least it failed during a practice session and not when I needed it for protection.

The trigger is locked to the back, the cylinder is locked up, and it will not release and swing out of the gun. I've got a warranty return request in with S&W... We'll see how they take care of business. I've never needed their service with any of my other revolvers so this is new for me.

I've owned S&W revolvers since the mid 1980s and currently have three others besides the Bodyguard. All of them are "lock-less" actions and have generally been used as hunting and hiking guns. They include a 4" Model 629 Mountain Gun, a 6" Model 686, and my first a Model 60 38 Special (non +P) snubbie. The Bodyguard beat this Model 60 in four of the five pocket pistol categories I look for: 1) light weight; 2) accuracy; 3) caliber; 4) snag free design; 5) reliability. Unfortunately, the category it lost is the most important... RELIABILITY !!

With one of my Glocks at my side I'll keep you posted on how S&W handles this recalcitrant little revolver.

Edmo


hmm sounds like the 686 that needed an M modification all over again, 10 to 1 once its back and working your going to get rid of it like my father did with that 686 in 83'

as after something like that happens with it you never trust that gun ever again.

so it'd probably be best to request a new gun from smith and wesson to replace it saying I dont feel I could ever trust that particular gun again and that I hope it was just a one off lemon.



from what you say...probably best to simply sell it..LOL,what do you do if your car breaks a belt and leaves you stranded? sell it? ;)

that's a simple mechancial failure that can easily be remedied on a car of a 1000 parts that works properly if used all of the time and its not abused


a revolver is a much smaller device with alot less parts thats prided on being more reliabile and trustworthy than a semi auto regardless of the ammo choice and it shouldnt have a break in period, period.

atleast not like that!

it is a revolver, not a semi auto after all, if you cant trust a revolver what can you trust?
 
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hmm sounds like the 686 that needed an M modification all over again, 10 to 1 once its back and working your going to get rid of it like my father did with that 686 in 83'

as after something like that happens with it you never trust that gun ever again.

so it'd probably be best to request a new gun from smith and wesson to replace it saying I dont feel I could ever trust that particular gun again and that I hope it was just a one off lemon.





that's a simple mechancial failure that can easily be remedied on a car of a 1000 parts that works properly if used all of the time and its not abused


a revolver is a much smaller device with alot less parts thats prided on being more reliabile and trustworthy than a semi auto regardless of the ammo choice and it shouldnt have a break in period, period.

atleast not like that!

it is a revolver, not a semi auto after all, if you cant trust a revolver what can you trust?

Nobody has said a thing about a break in period, you guys need to learn to read. The statements have been shoot it enough to fully test it, like anything mechanical your life depends on.

I do however, agree that from a mental standpoint I would trade it, so I never had doubt in the back of my mind. A 642 is a better gun IMO. The BG's have a much higher rate of issues.
 
yeah that too and it was only through dumb luck that my father found out the good way that that 686 needed that modificiation when he took it to the range after he bought it and it locked up on the first 6 shots of factory ammo

although it seems odd to have it lock up like that after one box and not immediately like with that 686. Athough typically on a range session I go through two boxes with my guns not just one, all the more reason I should keep that practice I guess.
 
The problem with Gen 4 Glocks is quite well documented. I'm sure they will overcome it, but so far the Gen 2's are head and shoulders above the following generations, particularly Gen 4's.
This is my opinion also
I have three gen 2 Glock 19's,have had for years. One FTF in 18 years with no further problems. I'm trying to shuck a late production gen. 3 right now that has the infamous dipped extractor. I think the gen. 2 G19's are the best pistol glock ever made,despite experts touting the Gen. 3's
 
This is my opinion also
I have three gen 2 Glock 19's,have had for years. One FTF in 18 years with no further problems. I'm trying to shuck a late production gen. 3 right now that has the infamous dipped extractor. I think the gen. 2 G19's are the best pistol glock ever made,despite experts touting the Gen. 3's

Does your Gen3 G19 have black or green plastic?

Edmo
 
hmm sounds like the 686 that needed an M modification all over again, 10 to 1 once its back and working your going to get rid of it like my father did with that 686 in 83'

as after something like that happens with it you never trust that gun ever again.

so it'd probably be best to request a new gun from smith and wesson to replace it saying I dont feel I could ever trust that particular gun again and that I hope it was just a one off lemon.





that's a simple mechancial failure that can easily be remedied on a car of a 1000 parts that works properly if used all of the time and its not abused


a revolver is a much smaller device with alot less parts thats prided on being more reliabile and trustworthy than a semi auto regardless of the ammo choice and it shouldnt have a break in period, period.

atleast not like that!

it is a revolver, not a semi auto after all, if you cant trust a revolver what can you trust?


my thought would be...using your rather lofty standards...don't trust any of them...they are mechanical and sometimes things happen...i know you have no grasp of that but....:rolleyes:
 
I got rid of my BG38 after only a short time as there is a problem with the revolver that I found. It is repeatable and others have noticed, although it has been minimized in the gun magazine articles and on this forum.

The problem is apparently inherent to the design and repeatable. When you close the cylinder, you can close it in such a way that the first pull of the trigger will NOT advance the cylinder to the next charge hole. This is readily discoverable through observation and is only noticeable during shooting if you load a single round in the cylinder so that when it advances it is the first round fired. Open and close the cylinder and carefully watch for the cylinder to advance - don't just assume it is. Eventually, you will hit the "sweet spot" and your cylinder will not roll when you pull the trigger.

I know all sorts of people will jump on here and act like it has not happened to them, but it was possible to repeat it with every one of these revolvers I have tried.

The standard J Frame is less expensive and has not exhibited this problem in the 40 years I have been shooting the J Frames. I went back to those models as I lost all trust in the new BG38.

Not having handled a BG38 I have no opinion on the issues reported here, but I do have a question on the "no advance" problem. On every hand ejector I shoot, my last motion in closing the cylinder involves using my left thumb to roll the cylinder counter-clockwise until the cylinder stop drops and locks the cylinder in position. Is that not possible with the BG38? If it is possible, does that not do away with this particular issue?

Maybe I'm a little OCD about this, but I can't imagine just closing a cylinder and not making sure the revolver is left in its proper at-rest condition.

I'm half interested in the BG38 as a piece of engineering, but I knew when they first came out that I would wait a couple of years for any performance issues to be identified and addressed. Sounds like the design isn't yet quite ripe.
 
like anything mechanical...things happen...yes..to those wonderful plastic glocks as well...three police agencies in this area have discontinued those glocks...why?to many mechanical failures!before you sound so oppressed about sending your s&w in for repair...why not give them a chance?

I'm a Glock fan, but they're really messed up with their 4th gen guns, especially the G19...
 
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j.w.yep...i know what you are saying...sometimes there are design flaws...to expect something mechanical however to NEVER have an issue is to me a bit much...could that prove costly to the owner?yes...of course it can...if the brakes fail on your car thats probably also costly...but it happens....
 
Years ago, my preference for revolvers was supported by the notion that semi auto pistols were a little more likely to have feeding and/or ejection problems.

Lately, and by that I mean in the past 25 years or so, I have come to realize that semi autos are a lot more dependable than they once were. Also during the past 60 years of shooting revolvers, I have had more than a few failures of various kinds that would have..in a gun fight..rendered it useless.

They say that you can't teach an old dog new tricks, but as far as this old dog is concerned, about the only advantage that the revolver has..now-a-days..is that you don't have to search around in the grass looking for the brass.

I am currently carrying a EAA Witness in .40 S&W caliber for CC. I can buy brass cheap enough that I don't worry much about losing it.

I am somewhat concerned with magazines being loaded for months at a time, but I have been told that that is no problem either....I am currently doing research to see if that is true.
 
Not having handled a BG38 I have no opinion on the issues reported here, but I do have a question on the "no advance" problem. On every hand ejector I shoot, my last motion in closing the cylinder involves using my left thumb to roll the cylinder counter-clockwise until the cylinder stop drops and locks the cylinder in position. Is that not possible with the BG38? If it is possible, does that not do away with this particular issue?

Maybe I'm a little OCD about this, but I can't imagine just closing a cylinder and not making sure the revolver is left in its proper at-rest condition.

I'm half interested in the BG38 as a piece of engineering, but I knew when they first came out that I would wait a couple of years for any performance issues to be identified and addressed. Sounds like the design isn't yet quite ripe.

DC, yes the "no advance" problem I saw with my BG38 (back when it actually worked) could be eliminated by doing exactly like you mention... Rolling the cylinder until it locks into place stopped mine from having the problem. However, it didn't give the same reassuring feel and click a standard S&W revolver does when it locks into place.

I also do the cylinder roll to ensure it is locked into place and because of this I never had an issue. I just wish I could still roll my cylinder!

Now Monday just before noon. Still no words from the good boys and girls at S&W.

Edmo

Edmo
 
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