1bdvet
US Veteran
Thanks for your insight, on the proper lubricating of my weapons. I will now start using little grease on the slides of the auto's.
Gun oil or gun grease??
- Thread starter Justin69
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Twoboxer
Member
I'm late to the party, but you can see all the controversy lol.
In the beginning, FOLLOW WHAT'S IN YOUR MANUAL.
The manual calls for small dabs of oil in 7 spots. The manufacturer says that's all it needs. I can assure you it will run fine if you do that . . . and it will spit and drool oil if you use too much. You'll learn by trial and error, and meanwhile using oil will NOT harm your gun, it will work just fine.
Later, as you learn more, you can adjust your methodology and judge for yourself how good (or bad) the advice you get from strangers is lol.
In the beginning, FOLLOW WHAT'S IN YOUR MANUAL.
The manual calls for small dabs of oil in 7 spots. The manufacturer says that's all it needs. I can assure you it will run fine if you do that . . . and it will spit and drool oil if you use too much. You'll learn by trial and error, and meanwhile using oil will NOT harm your gun, it will work just fine.
Later, as you learn more, you can adjust your methodology and judge for yourself how good (or bad) the advice you get from strangers is lol.
mewisemajic
Member
I agree with that 100%. Find some people you can trust (which is getting harder to do) and use their advice as a guide but not a rule.
However, I use TW25B on the rails, oil on the rest.
kilroy2721
Member
Follow the manufacturers suggestion. Most of them will tell you to use oil. Everyone has their own opinion of what will work best. I have seen a lot of weird ways that people try to do to keep their guns lubricated. I wouldn't be suprised is someone out there uses the bacon grease from their breakfast.
I use oil for everything, never had any problem and I live in Florida where its hot all the time.
I use oil for everything, never had any problem and I live in Florida where its hot all the time.
Here's some good advice from a reliable source. What I've always thought is that oil is fine for typical shooting. However, to keep oil off your clothes when using a carry weapon, use some grease as it stays put and doesn't leak off.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eUacqOIAaU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eUacqOIAaU
OpsMgr
US Veteran
Have used BreakFree CLP for years but tried Eezox and it works as advertised. Goes on wet and then dries to leave a slippery film that does NOT attract gunk...
cornchucker
Member
I use TW-25B on all my slides and any good gun oil on the other lube points.
That's the opinion of one S&W rep.
I'd take the advice of some of the guys on here over that rep. In fact I'd take the advice of some of our guys over most S&W engineers....
I believe an armorer with 30 years experience with guns in the sand and arctic cold keeping our troops with functioning weapons is a better resource than a snot nosed kid 'engineer' who knows everything from books.
I just switched from CLP to TW25b and I like it.
Capt_Destro
Member
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Any opinions on general purpose lithium grease? (Sold at Wal-Mart, the it is white/clear looking. So I guess white lithium.) For the slide on my m&p at least.
Fat Old Guy
Member
I have a big can of Hoppes gun oil that I bought in 1981, still using that. On my M1, I use official M1 gun grease in the tiny pots.
I have some little bottles of CLP that I use at the range if something looks like it needs a squirt of oil.
I have some little bottles of CLP that I use at the range if something looks like it needs a squirt of oil.
falconman515
Member
This was basically my exact question so I revived this thread.
I am wanting to make sure I have the correct product on my slide at all times and I have MANY places to dab all 4 points of your slide rail and frame with grease and oil everything else.
Still the consensus here for the most part?
If so I am going to go with the Slip2000 EWG (extreme weapons grease).
Thoughts?
I am wanting to make sure I have the correct product on my slide at all times and I have MANY places to dab all 4 points of your slide rail and frame with grease and oil everything else.
Still the consensus here for the most part?
If so I am going to go with the Slip2000 EWG (extreme weapons grease).
Thoughts?
kilroy2721
Member
I would use oil.
Kadonny
Member
I think you are selling S&W a little short here. Their sole job is to sell guns and sell guns that are reliable and run correctly. I would certainly think they are not employing "snot nosed kids" as engineers.....their entire reputation depends on it.
That being said, I never use grease, oil only. I listen to what the manufacture of the weapon recommends, and most recommend oil from what I have seen. Look at the high end 1911s....many (Brown, Baer & Dan Wesson) specify very clearly oil only, no grease. They do that for a reason. Wait, maybe they employ "snot nosed kids" too as lead engineers too
N4KVE
Member
Tetra grease works fine for me, but here in Florida it rarely gets below 60 in the winter. Summers are in the 80-90 range. When they say to use oil, it's because some of their guns could be in the snow belt where the temps could be 10 degrees. My problem is when applying oil to a gun, it's gone & bone dry after a week. The Tetra stays in place forever. GARY
Ask 100 gun guys which is the best gun oil and you'll get 100 different answers. Mostly all of the newer lubricants are pretty much the same performance wise.
I use Mobil full synthetic motor oil myself.
I use Mobil full synthetic motor oil myself.
I don't think there is an agreed "conventional wisdom" on this topic yet. And there are sub-arguments: Froglube vs. TW-25, MobilOne vs. Walmart bearing grease, etc. Individual opinions vary.
A few points where there does seem to be agreement:
--Aluminum frame guns (e.g., classic Sigs) last longer with grease on the areas where steel (the slide) contacts the frame (aluminum). (Sig recommends TW-25B). Oil (including Breakfree CLP and many others) works fine on steel-to-steel frame rails.
--Oil that is too light, which might be light machine oil or even RemOil, will evaporate quickly from a gun in storage or in pocket, and won't last through a long range session.
--Gobs of grease, esp. lithium based grease, can stiffen when cold and cause the cycling of automatics to slow down enough to cause malfunctions.
Personal opinions: CLP works fine for my M&P9. TW-25B works well with my P229. Hornady One Shot® cleaner/lubricant is the best preservative/anti-rust agent going (not to be confused with One Shot case lube for reloading).
A few points where there does seem to be agreement:
--Aluminum frame guns (e.g., classic Sigs) last longer with grease on the areas where steel (the slide) contacts the frame (aluminum). (Sig recommends TW-25B). Oil (including Breakfree CLP and many others) works fine on steel-to-steel frame rails.
--Oil that is too light, which might be light machine oil or even RemOil, will evaporate quickly from a gun in storage or in pocket, and won't last through a long range session.
--Gobs of grease, esp. lithium based grease, can stiffen when cold and cause the cycling of automatics to slow down enough to cause malfunctions.
Personal opinions: CLP works fine for my M&P9. TW-25B works well with my P229. Hornady One Shot® cleaner/lubricant is the best preservative/anti-rust agent going (not to be confused with One Shot case lube for reloading).
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