Gun oil or gun grease??

I have been using Unicorn Tears they make lubes for the military. Works well in my sporting rifles also. Also have used Mobil 1 0W-5W
 
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Take yer pick. As long as it's lubricated you're golden. People stress way too much about what to use for lubrication. Cleaning too, for that matter.

Ding Ding Ding! Winner, Winner Chicken Dinner!!

Like many of us, I've tried a multitude of different greases and oils. I've come to the conclusion that the following approach is best:

Use something.

Bare metal to metal isn't good.

:D
 
I haven't taken the time to read all this, so my comment may be old news: I recommend Ultima-Lube Universal from Wilson Combat. It's an "oil" in so far as it's a liquid. It's a "grease" in so far as it stays where you put it.

Bottom Line: It's good stuff!!

Ralph Tremaine
 
I use MilCom TW25 grease on slide rails and any good oil on the rest.

This has worked for me and some of my favorite pistols have roughly 11,000, 15,000, 22,000, 27,000, 35,000, and 52,000 rounds through them.

One caveat, if the pistol is a polymer frame gun I only use oil on the rails.

Breakfree LP synthetic gun oil, which has no solvent in it.
 
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I like a little of both in warm climates. Light application of moly grease on slides and a drop of oil everywhere. Wipe it all down and back to business. If you are in freezing weather for extended periods, especially with rifles, go dry, nothing at all. I use 3 in 1 oil also it's cheap and works fine.
 
I got one of the M&P .22 Magnum models last spring. Had it to the range and it ran fine. I saw something about the right hand safety lever now working and confirmed mine was not able to move up. A member on another forum stated he had the same problem and a S&W armorer said to grease it an lube liberally and work it a lot. I did that and it started working. I got it to a range last week and it would not fire, so took it back to our house and found some charcoal lighter fluid and flushed that area well, shook dry and applied some very light machine oil and went back to the range. It ran fine then, so I concluded some grease got into some area and slowed the hammer so it could not strike the firing pin hard enough. I got home and really cleaned it, got a fresh bottle of oil, Penzoil 0w16 and lubed it with that.
 
Carbon and any lubricant makes an effective lapping compound. No grease or oil, no matter the base is going to wear a polymer used in a firearm frame. Its not lego plastic its a sofisticated blend of components specifically used for the abuse expected.
Carbon fouling however, well, that stuff will lap just about any steel.
I like a clean gun so I shoot clean guns. Im not too lazy to clean them. I own and shoot guns that are old, very old and guess what, they still function perfectly. I wonder why.
Cleaning firearms is nothing but common sense. Using an oil is appropriate for some components and grease is appropriate for others. TW25B is fine but not necessary for our semi auto guns. It was supposedly developed for FA applications. Do I use it sometimes? Yes but 99% of the time I use ALG0000 light grease where a grease MIGHT be beneficial and oils otherwise. Alot of my sears get the 0000 grease.
Just remember, no matter what you use or wherr you use it all of it is going to attract, collect and hold all of that carbon fouling aka lapping compound.

About the s&w 22mag pistol, I wants one, I know that. Well lets say that I am wanting a 22mag SA gun jist dont know which one. That kel-tec one is as ugly as original sin but it appears pretty well proven at this point. The Walther model is definitely not my cup of tea aesthetically either but Ive seen alot of good reviews. Some are honest reviews but most were paid advertisements. I like the S&W M&P the most I suppose. The barrel set-up seems pretty unique. How does it work?
 
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Grease can harden if left alone for a period of time. This may not apply in your case, I don't know.

The only time I use grease is on my O&U shotgun hinge & my 1187 Remington. I use the 1187 for 3 Gun matches & rapid-fire heats it up quickly! Grease does better in high temps, which is why it's used in wheel bearings & so forth.

This is the grease I use: Pro-Shot Pro-Gold Grease Lubricant 1 oz Jar # PGL-1 New! | eBay

IMO, handguns don't really need grease, just a good lube. Lucas makes a synthetic oil for guns, Autozone used to sell it. Synthetic lasts longer (won't evaporate) & has a high temp resistance.

Lucas: Lucas Gun Oil Extreme Duty 1oz Needle Oiler Made in and ships from the USA 49807108755 | eBay

For my mundane lubing, I use Break-Free CLP. It's available in a gallon jug, so I also use it to wipe down my guns for long-term storage as well.

In a pinch, good old 3-in-1 oil works for almost any gun.

My .o2
Yes grease will harden with time. Oil also will do the same. It is a simple oxidation process, that occurs with most organic compounds.
 
I have been using Unicorn Tears they make lubes for the military. Works well in my sporting rifles also. Also have used Mobil 1 0W-5W


I just looked at Mobil's website and do now see a 0W-5, but was surprised to find a 0W-8.
I had some problems with a S&W M&P 22mag not firing because of too thick or viscous lube somewhere. I gave it a bath in mineral spirits and then lubed with some Penzoil 0W-16 full synthetic. It seems to flow somwhat like some of the expensive gun oils, and the gun functions fine with it.
 
I use this. It does not harden or deteriorate.:)
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Comm-Premium-1-5-Ounce-Synthetic-Lubricant/dp/B002T1ZW2E[/ame]
 
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I have some generic gun oil that came in a cleaning kit that I use to wipe down the exterior of my guns before placing in the safe . Way back in the day MILITEC used to send you a free sample and I use that to lube the internals . A little bit goes a long way and the price was right . I have a bottle of grease I got from Wilson Combat for those things that I feel would benefit from a little dab .
 
I have used many of the Lubes of the day mentioned above. My go to is CLP but I have been using 10w30 Synthetic motor oil. Works just as good as anything else and cheaper by volume. A pint will last you a lifetime.

Pint! All I can find is quarts. I just bought a quart of 0w16 oil specifically for gun use.
 
I thought oil gets rancid (or at least loses a lot of its vicosity) after a few years.

That would be oil of a vegetable or animal origin, which would be an oxidation process. Petroleum and synthetic oils would oxidze also, probably much slower, and not develop the odor of a rancid edible type oil.
 
For smallarms, oil was used 95% of the time, due to the country we were "Visiting".

However, grease was used in break in time with new metal parts and some of the very large "Equipment" that the US Navy had laying around, that "Floated".

"Shiney" is a good thing, but seeing actual oil on the meatal, is over doing things.

Oil works to reduice friction but it's main job is to prevent rust, while
a heavy grease is used for long storage times, for Military rifles and hand guns.

I had one new gas operated 12 Ga that I need to grease, since plain oil would not work the action through a box of 25 shells, shooting Trap,
when I was first, breaking it in.

That is why they make them BOTH.
 
I use bacon grease on the slide rails. Works well and smells great when I shoot! 😀
 
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