The ultimate Highway Patrolman thread.including N frame ser# ranges

I'm Bill and I'm new to this forum. Just picked up a S&W Highway Patrolman Model 28-2 as a trade for a 12 gauge semi. Its in excellent condition with no wear marks on the cylinder or bluing wear. The serial# is N571xxx and has the 6" barrel. Hoping you can add it to your list of fine revolvers out there. I also have another question I'm hoping someone can answer. When I cock the hammer back, its a nice clean crisp letoff without any real pressure or pull length. When I pull the trigger from a down hammer position, you can feel all the tooling marks during the movement inside. Is there a way to smooth it out so its nice and clean also? I've torn apart trigger assemblies in shotguns, rifles and my auto's to polish them but didn't want to ruin the revolver with marks from taking out the screws for the trigger assembly on this one because of the condition of it. It wasn't shot very much at all from what the previous owner told me. It was grandfathered in to him from the original owner. Maybe with some add'l shooting from hammer down position will smooth it out some?
 

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Welcome to the forum, Bill! Nice gun! Sure would be a shame to scar it up working on it. If you are very, very, careful, using the right screwdrivers, you can take off the sideplate without scratching it, but you have to concentrate on being careful. I wouldn't go working on the action unless I knew what I was doing, but there is help out there!:)
 
Billm18642 said:
I'm Bill and I'm new to this forum. Just picked up a S&W Highway Patrolman Model 28-2 as a trade for a 12 gauge semi. Its in excellent condition with no wear marks on the cylinder or bluing wear. The serial# is N571xxx and has the 6" barrel. Hoping you can add it to your list of fine revolvers out there. I also have another question I'm hoping someone can answer. When I cock the hammer back, its a nice clean crisp letoff without any real pressure or pull length. When I pull the trigger from a down hammer position, you can feel all the tooling marks during the movement inside. Is there a way to smooth it out so its nice and clean also? I've torn apart trigger assemblies in shotguns, rifles and my auto's to polish them but didn't want to ruin the revolver with marks from taking out the screws for the trigger assembly on this one because of the condition of it. It wasn't shot very much at all from what the previous owner told me. It was grandfathered in to him from the original owner. Maybe with some add'l shooting from hammer down position will smooth it out some?
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Welcome to the Forum! You may have some crud and grit in the action causing the rough feel. I have heard of some folks spraying brake cleaner into the action (cock the hammer, then spray between the hammer and frame) to flush it clean, then oiling it with a good gun oil. If you want to pull the side plate there is a specific technique for removal. Using a properly sized gunsmithing screw driver, remove the grips, then the three screws in the side plate. Remember which screws go where! After the screws are remived, lightlt tap the under side of the fram, the vibration will loosen the side plate so you can lift it off. Don't pry on it, you will damage the plate. Best of luck, and congratulation on your M 28!
 
just got a 28-2 in a trade #N552xxx. 6" blue it's no beauty queen but should make a good shooter I will post pics. when I get time , have to work soon. I think the year would be 78 or 79.
 
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gnappi said:
My 28-2 4" Serial number N 858xx original diamond grips is in 95% condition.

It was in a pawn shop for a LONG time, they were happy to get rid of it. The price was... low.
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I hate to tell you this but the stocks (grips) are not originals. Those are the more recent ones they're selling on some of the Smiths.

But the gun itself looks great!
 
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Thanks for the warm welcome guys. I've worked on alot of guns in the past but this one is my first revolver. I do feel comfortable taking them apart but I think I'll try brake cleaner first. I've done that before on a shotgun magazine tube.
 
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Bubba'd 28-2 gets a new lease on life

I'm the one who wants to bring every puppy home from the pound.
Or maybe its every abused and neglected revolver I find?
This one was the victim of Bubba using a bench grinder, it appeared, to round butt it.
Extractor rod was Vise-Grip chewed, and big patches of blue were gone on the barrel.
The target trigger had been partially smoothed.
And there was .004" endshake.
A nasty set of Hogue grips were thrown in the trash at the store.
Polished and tuned the action with a Wolfe spring set.
Got it back together tonight with a new extractor, added a target hammer and smoothed out all of Bubba's hacking.
Touched up the finish with Blue Wonder and added a set of Ahrends stocks.
28-2-4.jpg

After any final tuning, I'm think a hard chrome finish might be in order.
Or maybe its time to try my hand at rust-bluing?
 
MIKELUVR said:
I tried , but didn't make it thru the 29 pages of this thread - did anyone ever post a picture of the elusive Mod 28-1 ?
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It's the one closest to the camera (no, they are not all mine, Arizona is a 50/50 state with the spouse ;-) but they are all HPs). two five screws, four 4 screws, two -2s, a 2.5 (R but not P) and two -3s.
 

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Hi, I'm new to this forum, found it after some googling about after I got my first revolver at an auction a few weeks back. I got it for SEK1275, about US$200 and finally picked it up in Stockholm today. It's a 6" highway patrolman with diamond target (i think at least) grips, serial no S1824xx. The blueing has some markings, mostly on the front sides of the barrell, could it be from holster wear? I kind of like the used rugged impression it gives, so I'm not gonna do any re-finishing on that part, might put some oil on the grips to keep them in good condition. I can't find any 28 marking anywhere, so I guess it's a pre-28, where are the model numbers supposed to be?

Mechanically it seems all good, haven't shot it yet but that will change real soon! =) I'd also like to get some history on it, didn't get anydocumentation but I might be able to find out about previous owners in Sweden. Is it possible to get any information from Smith & Wesson?

DSC08527_zps750d66f2.jpg


DSC08528_zps41b2fe23.jpg


DSC08530_zpsdbf7a5f0.jpg
 
With the cylinder open, you would see a Model number on the frame just under the end of the barrel. I don't see a fourth screw in the front of the trigger guard, by the serial it should be there ,it may not be model marked. The stocks on that revolver are worth (here in USA) about what you paid for the revolver. It is from the late 1950s,,, I'm from the mid 50s and never been to Sweden
 
Thank you! and be sure to pm me if you decide to make a change about never have been to sweden, I'll give some advice on where to go and what to do
 
I recently completed my quest for a pair of 5 screw HPs. The 4" is SN: S119564, in high condition with sn matching magna grips and ratty vintage correct box. The 6" is SN: S120632 and is near perfect with a perfect set of non-relieved target grips and serial number matching box. The box is a deep box that will allow target grips, so I think it will letter with the target grips. It took over four years but it was worth the wait.
 
SLT223 said:
Here's a 1964 wearing a slightly older furniture. Anyone have an Allan key for that dang Tyler trigger shoe?
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Leave that trigger shoe on. It's reflective of the era of your revolver. Both my 28-2 and my dad's sport them, 'cuz that's the way they were when we used to go shooting together. These guns were produced in 1967 and 1968.

John

2_guns_zpsfe616fa8.jpg
 
Here's a few of mine posing together :)

Foreground is a 1958 No-Dash. Doesn't appear to have been shot.
Middle is a 1964 Dash Two
Back is a 1965 Dash Two with the best trigger I've ever squeezed on a revolver. It never misses a trip to the range :)
 
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