Problem after problem

[tlshores]

I'm not sure how to handle this.
I just brought home my shiny new M&P 10, or so I thought.
Turns out it was a used gun and I didn't realize it until I had already paid for it and filled out the transfer.
Looked good, until I got it home.
The first thing I noticed was that the spring loaded latch on the operating handle was frozen. Closer inspection revealed that back of the operating handle was bent.
Looks like maybe someone dropped the rifle and that's where it landed. I just replaced it with a Bravo Company AR10 handle which seems to work fine.
Today I loaded some test rounds for it. The bullet has no cannelure so I tried to chamber and eject a round to make sure I wouldn't get set back on the bullet. The round chambered but I couldn't eject it. The action was frozen. I had to take a hammer and tap the operating handle to get the round out of the chamber. When the round came out of the chamber it looked like it had been dropped in gravel and trampled. There are scuff / burnish marks all over the case and the bullet is gouged. I inspected the action and chamber as best I could but don't see anything visibly wrong. I guess it could just be a tight chamber. I think I will buy a box of factory rounds to see if they will cycle normally. If so I guess a set of small based dies is in my future. Otherwise I suppose the rifle will have to go back to S&W for safety inspection and test fire. That's really tough since the factory warranty is reserved for the original owner.
Pictures don't do it justice. The ejected round really looks rough

 

[rojodiablo]

Where are you located??? This forum has a great number of members who have a very good knowledge of local gunsmiths.

Without seeing this one and looking the chamber over, etc. there is not much I can recommend.

 

[tlshores]

I live in North Alabama. Birmingham area.

 

[turbo38gn]

If it's a used gun, why don't you bring it back to where you bought it... have it straightened out...

 

[tlshores]

If it's a used gun, why don't you bring it back to where you bought it... have it straightened out...

They don't have a new gun of the same make and model.
My preference would be just to get any issues corrected and keep it.
Provided of course, it doesn't become too costly or troublesome.

 

[fstkmaro]

those scratches on the case, look like the ones on each case that goes through my gun. I noticed that the factory mag (in my case) is doing those, with the seldom occurrence when the round will not load. The other day, mine had something like that. I had to fight to get the case out of the chamber after firing. Factory ammo and all. Mine is only 3 weeks old.

 

[italiansport]

AR 15s*** have a tendency to "load up" where the bolt locks and also carbon up in the chamber itself. As a first step I'd field strip it including strippping the bolt and give it a thorough cleaning. We used to put a chamber sized brush on a cleaning rod at my gun club and use an electric drill at low speed to clean the chamber.
Grease it up well re-assemble and see if it now chambers and ejects reliably.
Jim

**I'm sure those of you on this forum who have shot and maintained AR15s a lot know why the Commie bloc countries prefer AKs

 

[MichiganScott]

You do not need small base dies for an AR. Your regular ones are just fine if properly adjusted. Either buy a Hornady headspace gauge or size the cases as shown in the thread http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p10-rifles/364215-piercing-primers.html

You do not pound on the charging handle of an AR to get a cartridge unstuck. You pull down on the charging handle while slamming the butt stock vigorously on the ground. Google "Mortaring an AR".

 

[apiccola]

Has anyone tried installing a DPMS 308 bolt in the M&P 10 lately? Just wondering what the results of that condition would look like.

 

[tlshores]

You do not need small base dies for an AR. Your regular ones are just fine if properly adjusted. Either buy a Hornady headspace gauge or size the cases as shown in the thread http://smith-wessonforum.com/smith-wesson-m-p10-rifles/364215-piercing-primers.html

You do not pound on the charging handle of an AR to get a cartridge unstuck. You pull down on the charging handle while slamming the butt stock vigorously on the ground. Google "Mortaring an AR".

I did order a headspace gage. Should be interesting to see the result.
As for mortaring an AR, I didn't know that little trick so thanks for the tip.
However, I didn't pound on the handle, I gently tapped it and it broke the case loose. Pounding on an aluminum part is never a good idea.

 

[MistWolf]

Pounding on an aluminum part is never a good idea.

If there was a "Thumbs Up" smiley, I'd give you two of them

 

[tacticool22]

I would send it to S&W right away with the original bent charging handle. They will take good care of you.
Is the barrel stamped .308 Win?

 

[webfarmer]

I did order a headspace gage. Should be interesting to see the result.
As for mortaring an AR, I didn't know that little trick so thanks for the tip.
However, I didn't pound on the handle, I gently tapped it and it broke the case loose. Pounding on an aluminum part is never a good idea.

This is interesting as I had the same problem. Turns out, after getting a Wilson headspace gauge, shoulder set back on my initial reloads was not enough. Had to adjust the die and that ended the issue. Watch case length too (I trim to 2.005"). I read somewhere that it isn't a good idea to say - drop a loaded (or dummy) round in the chamber - and then release the bolt on these rifles. It mentioned to always let the bolt take it from the magazine. Not sure why. Good luck!

 

[Bassaro]

See I was the opposite, I needed small base dies. This is the first semi auto 308 that I ever needed them for and always thought they were just a marketing gimmick...then came my m&p 10.

Before anyone asks I did have my headspace checked with a friend who has the Wilson gauge. My problem wasn't resolved till I coughed up the money and bought a set of small base dies.

After I began reloading with them all my problems went away and the pogo method was just a memory.

 

[CVF]

It's been awhile since I've fired mine but I seem to remember the stock mag(10 rounder) that came with my rifle giving the casing a fairly deep scratch the entire length. I've since switched over to DPMS mags and haven't noticed it since.

 

[rojodiablo]

This is interesting as I had the same problem. Turns out, after getting a Wilson headspace gauge, shoulder set back on my initial reloads was not enough. Had to adjust the die and that ended the issue. Watch case length too (I trim to 2.005"). I read somewhere that it isn't a good idea to say - drop a loaded (or dummy) round in the chamber - and then release the bolt on these rifles. It mentioned to always let the bolt take it from the magazine. Not sure why. Good luck!

Most AR's have a floating firing pin. While it's almost not possible to have a chamber load- fire, it's not IMPOSSIBLE on most.
I believe that one of the idiosyncrasies of the M&P10 is the firing pin retaining setup which won't allow this to happen. (Theoretically)

 

[webfarmer]

Most AR's have a floating firing pin. While it's almost not possible to have a chamber load- fire, it's not IMPOSSIBLE on most.
I believe that one of the idiosyncrasies of the M&P10 is the firing pin retaining setup which won't allow this to happen. (Theoretically)

That makes perfect sense. I do remember something about the floating firing pin and it must have applied to AR15's like you say. Thanks!

 

[tlshores]

I would send it to S&W right away with the original bent charging handle. They will take good care of you.
Is the barrel stamped .308 Win?

Yes, it has ".308 Win 1/10 5R" stamped on the barrel

 

[tlshores]

I am happy to report that I seem to have solved the problem with the bolt sticking after chambering a round. I loaded some new Hornady brass with Hornady 150 gr HPBTs. I checked them all with a headspace gage and operation was normal during 1st trip to the range. The only issue I noticed was the bolt not locking back on firing the last round with the Magpul mags. That's not really a bother to me at this point and I will deal with it later. It's probably due to light charges not pushing the bolt back far enough to latch. The loads were a ladder charge with AA2495. The first few groups were not good as 3 shots at 100 were in about the 2 1/2" inch range. However as the powder and velocity increased the accuracy tightened up to below 1 MOA. The gun has a lot of potential but needs to be upgraded. It was extremely difficult to shoot for groups. The factory trigger is,.... well, a factory trigger. The factory adjustable stock will not behave on a sandbag. The sling attachment and exposed latch release do not make for a happy benchrest. All that said, I am feeling pretty good about the gun and I think with some tinkering, time and money I will get what I was looking for.

 

[hd28cw]

Seems kind of funny to me. Lots of problems tend to occur with "home grown reloads". I find it a good idea to test a new firearm with factory loaded "quality" ammo. i.e. federal Premium, That way you'll know if everything works correctly......well at least one time.