686-4 Silhouette - Polished

[sirhrmechanic]

Nicely done, Grasshopper!

You have learned well!

When you can take the pebble from my hand, it will be time for you to leave.

After seeing your job on that gun... it is time for you to leave!

Cheers,

Sirhr

 

[MattJames]

Nice job...real nice!

 

[ginzo]

Very Nice!

I'm currently doing the same thing to my new to me 649-3. More just cleaning the "film" of age than anything else. But it is quite a bit brighter than it was. Did some last week, then put it away for now. Next time I need to "hide" in the garage, I'll play some more...........

 

[1sgret]

45Wheelgun,

Hi,

I've had my S&W 686 (no dash) since 06-02-86, paid $289.95. It was manufactured 10 Jan 1986. I sent immediately sent it out to Mag-na-port for a porting job. There is little felt recoil and no recoil climb. I shoot only near max loads in it.

It has a minimum of 10K rounds thru it and still is as accurate as the day I picked it up.

Most shooters do not like the four position front sight, I love it. It is deadly accurate.

When sighting it in I used #1 position for 10 yards, # 2 position is 25 yards, #3 position is 50 yards & #4 position is 100 yards. How you decide which sight to use for what range is your choice. On my front sight there are NO "clicks" as you make adjustments, so you have to be cautious with your adjustments. I have not touched the sight adjustments since the first time sighting it in.

You will love shooting it !

Top

 

[45Wheelgun]

Thanks 1sgrt.

I have read the instructions provided by S&W, and I understand the process, but nowhere do they discuss how much to turn the allen head to achieve the desired result. It's probably been too long, but do you remember how sensitive the adjustment screws were?

This seems like one of those things that is difficult and time consuming, but only a one time setup.

I have been searching for one of these 686 6" Silhouette guns in "shooter" condition for a number of years. I used to have a M29 10", but I'm really not a .44 shooter and I found the 10" barrel to be unwieldy, so it moved on.

 

[Poke]

I have had a few of these and sold a couple on GB. I think I made a copy of the directions from S&W on one of them and kept it on my computer. Havent seen the file lately though.

I cannot say I have seen another smith that looked that good all polished up. Your 686 looks like pure sex.

 

[bluetopper]

Did they ever make a 586 with silhouette front sights?

 

[45Wheelgun]

I have seen them in blue. But never in nickel. Doesn't mean they don't exist, but I haven't seen one.

 

[9mmsubgun-m11]

My personal preference is polish it. I think it is easier to clean when polished.

 

[wproct]

I agree with some previous posters, I kind of prefer the black rubber on that polished stainless, but Wow! You did a fantastic job on that polish job. I've tried that before myself, and it's not easy. That is impeccable work, I love it.

 

[grumpy7159]

I saw a math formula on another forum that had the height of the front sight calculated by the distance between the front and rear sight and the distance to the target. the formula had a variable for velocity. They then used the thread of the front sight for adjustment. I looked for it but couldn't find it again. I am sure someone here knows where to find it. But just to make it easy, take the pitch of the thread and see what one full turn makes on your group and ajust from there. I am not sure if a Smith front sight is different from a Ruger sight but I had my sights set for 50, 100, 150 and 200 meters on a 44mag.

 

[S.B.]

In the beginning of the 686s I was privileged to own with a plain blue partridge front sight, I used it in PPC matches. This looks very nice and I think you'll be just as proud as I was and it will preform just as well as mine with that front sight on it.
Steve

 

[Tommy Tunes]

WOW, nice job! That looks 1,000% BETTER than brushed stainless, which is an abomination of stainless making it look like cheap aluminum!

 

[handejector]

I shipped this gun for Dave, so I saw it before the makeover.

NICE job!

 

[PAULEM]

686 smith

I was able to procure this 686-4 6" Silhouette model. Sadly it was a bit finish challenged under the grips. Both on the side plate and the left side there was pitting from corrosion. Even worse someone in the past had remediated the damage with a Dremel Tool.

I took it to the range and it shot like a dream. It seems like it will take an entire day at the range in order to configure the front sight. Anyone have any experience configuring the Silhouette sight?

Since the finish was already messed up, I took it upon myself to polish it up. It may not look "factory" but it looks better than it did when it arrived here.

Fortunately I was able to leave the top alone as it had not been damaged.

Really beautiful gun; hope you enjoy shooting it. Thanks for sharing the pics. I'm not normally a fan of stainless, even though it has its virtues, but this Smith polished up beautifully. It's a shame how many people allow nice firearms to corrode, just inexcusable. I have an early Model 19 in blue steel that is one of my favorite pistols, and I wouldn't part with it for anything. This 686 should be capable of excellent accuracy once you get it dialed in. I'm at the point where, with these old eyes, if I can put six in my hat at ten or fifteen yards, I've had a good day. Love the K frames, but the L frames are growing on me. Nice gun

 

[BongoBoy]

Another reason I like stainless so much--there's a lot a skilled individual can do with it. From what I see, you've done a masterful job--polishing metal in any context is definitely a skill not to be underestimated. It is so easy to burn off corners, even when working by hand, and even easier to dork up tough areas such as the aft end of those flutes. Very, very nice.

While polished-or-plated isn't my taste in a firearm, I'd take polished stainless and love it over anything plated. This is a gorgeous 686, and I have a feeling she's where she belongs now--like a wonderful dog that's found a loving home, a definite positive disturbance in the Force--a great swelling of the Living Force--has happened here.

 

[Rob K]

Wheel gun

WOW, impressive job !

 

[S&W SS Revolvers]

All done by hand, watching TV. Hand sanding using 800 grit wet/dry to start, smoothing out the dremel damage as well as the remaining pitting. Hand sanded through the 1000/1500/2000 progression. Finished with finger applied Flitz, and a coat of RenWax.

I found a set of factory K-frame finger groove round butt combats in the wood pile. They might end up on it.

The camera was a Nikon D3300 with flash unit turned off. I was using natural light from a northern facing window, which was over the shoulder of the camera lens. Camera on a tripod and I was using the macro programing mode as I was in a hurry. I sure there were much better configurations and methods to be used, but I am a hack as photographer.

I left the top of the gun untouched. In the very rear right corner it is a little "shiny" where the dremel with the buffing wheel attachment came up over the side. So faint you can't see it in the photo.

May I add to the many compliments here with one word , she is GORGEOUS!!! Totally beautiful.

I have polished things that started with a grinder,files,and then 40 grit progressively to 1000 grit. From 400 to 1000 I used wet sanding. Did you use wet sanding in any or all of the process? Also I assume you disassembled the major components?

Reason for asking is the 686-3 purchased new 22 years and one day ago needs to look like yours buddy! It's my very , very favorite and always will be. It's dead on accurate...

 

[45Wheelgun]

May I add to the many compliments here with one word , she is GORGEOUS!!! Totally beautiful.

Did you use wet sanding in any or all of the process? Also I assume you disassembled the major components?

Thanks for the kind words.

While I used "wet/dry" sandpaper, I did it dry. I would have started with 800 or 1000 had I not had to deal with the pitting and Dremel tool damage. I used 1"x1" squares to be able to control the process. I also rotated my sanding direction by 90 degrees with each grit change.

I removed the grips, rear sight, and 100% of the internals and then replaced the side plate. The cylinder was removed, polished separately and the yoke left in place. The side plate screws were "in and out" depending on what I was doing - had to be careful not to "dish" the screw holes if the screws were out or leave a "halo" when the screws were in place.

One tool every person intending to remove the internals from a S&W revolver should have is the S&W Rebound Slide Spring Tool - it is invaluable.

 

[MrTrolleyguy]

I would not hesitate adding a rig like that to my collection.


I love a little bling and since it is not a carry gun it is a plus.

Trolley