ID and suggestions request

[Mmm]

Hello Folks,
I've recently become the guardian of a revolver that was my uncle's and grandfather's before that. Here are the details:
38 S&W Special CTG
serial # 368xxx
barrel length 4"
fixed sights

On the butt of the revolver are additional stamps: S 3Q9
This looks not to be a factory mark. I suspect a police department stamp? The Q is not fully stamped on the top, so I'm not 100% that it is a Q but cannot see anything else it could be.

Any info would be appreciated.

What brought me to the forum is that the trigger does not always reset, so I suspect the trigger return spring needs to be replaced. I was trying to find a schematic to get a part number. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Also, there is some spotty surface rust. I would like to get it refinished. I would appreciate recommendations. If this is a collectable then I would assume a re-bluing is in order; however, if not, I would prefer something more durable.

I can post photos if suggested. Thanks for your help!

 

[murphydog]

Welcome. This sounds to be a .38 Military & Police from about 1921. Photos would help for an ID of the stampings.

Here is a diagram of the standard model 10:

10 S&W Accessories | Numrich Gun Parts

Unless it has 0% original finish or heavy pitting, personally I would leave the finish as-is. You will spend several hundred dollars for a gun that looks nice but may be worth less than in worn but original condition. Did we mention we like photos?

Hope this is helpful.

 

[Absalom]

I can't help with the technical part, but I agree with Alan on the year 1921 and on NO re-finish. If you spend some time on this site, you'll find that we collectors strongly dislike refinishes of historic guns unless they're total rust buckets . A re-blueing, however nice the gun may look afterward, will wipe out any collector value and leave you with a simple shooter.

As for the additional butt stamping, if there is a chance that the unclear Q is a number, this could possibly be an NYPD sergeant's shield number stamping. According to Robert Vivas, an expert on New York's police sidearms, into the 1960s patrolmen were required to stamp their guns with their shield numbers, and if they were or became sergeants, an S went before the number. This is just a possibility, but time frame, type of gun and location of stamping would fit with the theory.

 

[DWalt]

I'll echo the previous comments. Refinishing is nearly always a poor idea. You are paying a lot just to devalue your gun.

I just ran into a guy today who showed me what he said had been a perfect Colt M19111A1 .45 from WWII which had belonged to his grandfather. He told me he just had it refinished because he thought it would look better blued. The world is full of imbeciles.

 

[Mmm]

You guys are quick!

Thanks for the info. So, no on the refinish. Anyway to retard the rust? Absalom's comments about shield numbers is interesting. My grandfather died in 1961, lived north of NYC in Brewster, and was at some time a police commissioner of Brewster but not a policeman. Pictures added.

 

[murphydog]

It's a cool old service gun with personal family history. It may have been a hand-me-down or retired LE sidearm. Double dog no to a refinish! .

Rust removal (bronze wool and oil, light pressure) followed by waxing the metal would be best for preservation. Standard pressure lead .38 Special loads would be the recommended diet. Enjoy!

 

[lamarw]

I believe mine is the same model S&W but just a little newer than yours. It is a .38 Military & Police Model 1905 4th Change and was shipped from S&W on Nov. 19, 1929.

The reason I posted is both owners of these two revolvers must of used them as hammers by looking at the butt. I guess the wood was rather tough to take the beating with only some scarring. Looks like the hammer block must of worked unless the owner's were smart enough to unload them before using them to drive nails or whatever.

 

[bedbugbilly]

I really like nice vintage revolvers that show good honest wear . . and that old "warrior" is a nice one to my eyes. It's nice it is staying in the family as well! If that were mine, I would do nothing to it other than clean, oil it and shoot it as it is. What wear it has was honestly earned and in my eyes, makes it special. Enjoy!

 

[handejector]

What brought me to the forum is that the trigger does not always reset, so I suspect the trigger return spring needs to be replaced. I was trying to find a schematic to get a part number. Any help on this would be appreciated.

Maybe, but I doubt it.
I've been through a LOT of guns and I've never found a broken rebound spring.
I have found several hundred gunked up old guns!

Get some aerosol Gun Scrubber at Walmart and start hosing the guts. Up through the slot you see when the grips are off, and down in front of a cocked hammer. Alternate squirting an oil like Rem-oil.
Or just soak it a week in a can of kerosene.
Gun Scrubber Link

 

[Mmm]

Lee,
I don't think the spring is broken just may have weakened over the years. I took the plate off and it is very clean. I lubed it well but still sticks. Thanks for all the comments.
M

 

[Absalom]

You're right, even enlarged the marks between the 3 and the 9 in this stamping do not suggest any explanation to me other than the bottom of a Q in an old-fashioned script, so I'm admitting defeat as to further explanation .

I'm still fairly certain it is some kind of department marking, since the heavy holster wear on both sides of the barrel is typical of a service gun that spent many years travelling in and out of a duty holster on a daily basis.

 

[DWalt]

For the surface rust, use some light oil and copper wool on it (like Chore Boy). Then keep it waxed. I use Johnson's Paste Wax, works excellently, you can even apply it to the grips. Replacing the return spring is child's play, and shipping cost will probably be more than the cost of the spring. I also have never seen a broken return spring, but I suppose it could weaken. If you know how, just disassemble all the internals and let them soak awhile in a mineral spirits bath. Hose out everything else with carb cleaner in a spray can. Re-lube and reassemble. If you don't know how, there are several videos on YouTube that are pretty good. Anyone can do it, you don't need to be a gunsmith.