S&W Victory takedown screw problem

[Gunnerman]

I just bought a new S&W Victory. One of the things that attracted me to is was the ease of disassembly. Just remove one screw, you're done. Yeah, if you can get the screw out. I've already stripped the hex wrench that came with it and another of my own trying to loosen it. I clamped vice grips on yet another hex wrench and torqued it until the hex wrench snapped. At this point, the screw is so chewed up I'm afraid to continue. It will NOT loosen. What did they put that screw in with, an air wrench? Permanent thread locker? I know they want to get it tight, but it is SUPPOSED to come out. Unbelievable. I had to hunt far and wide to even find one of these, and now it looks like I won't even be able to fire a shot before it spends a couple of months at the factory. I had heard Smith and Wesson's quality had improved of late. Maybe not.

 

[Gregbenner]

Wow, what a bummer! I have had mine out several times, have a different barrel as well, with no issues. Hopefully all will be fine when it gets fixed. Maybe heat would help?

 

[Magload]

Gunnerman you might just get a gun smith to remove it will cost you a little but you won't be waiting on the gun being shipped both ways and S&Ws time fixing it.

 

[wildbill222]

Hi Gunnerman...I had the same issue...no way will the factory allen remove that screw.. I call SW CS..They told me to apply heat and penetrating oil...It finally cracked loose. I put mine back at 35 inch pounds... What barrel do you have ?? Thanks

 

[Gunnerman]

I have the standard, non threaded barrel. I'm going to soak it in penetrating oil and shoot the heck out of it today. See if that loosens it up.

 

[gman51]

I have to say this is one gun purchase I wish I had passed on.

 

[Tom S.]

I have the standard, non threaded barrel. I'm going to soak it in penetrating oil and shoot the heck out of it today. See if that loosens it up.

Penetrating oil typically won't do much for thread locking compound. Try heating it with a soldering iron. Heat will cause the thread lock compound to soften up.

 

[Nickanto]

I purchased a victory at cabelas yesterday. Came home to clean it and the same thing happened. I've applied heat, penetrating oil and still it won't budge. I have broke three hex keys and now the screw is stripped out. Very dissapointing, but it will have to go back to Smith. On a good note. I've been shooting the heck out of it and it shoots incredibly.

 

[Targets Guy]

Until this all the complaints had been about the screw coming loose. Smith and Wesson must have overcompensated.

 

[shawn mccarver]

I just bought a new S&W Victory. One of the things that attracted me to is was the ease of disassembly. Just remove one screw, you're done. Yeah, if you can get the screw out. I've already stripped the hex wrench that came with it and another of my own trying to loosen it. I clamped vice grips on yet another hex wrench and torqued it until the hex wrench snapped. At this point, the screw is so chewed up I'm afraid to continue. It will NOT loosen. What did they put that screw in with, an air wrench? Permanent thread locker? I know they want to get it tight, but it is SUPPOSED to come out. Unbelievable. I had to hunt far and wide to even find one of these, and now it looks like I won't even be able to fire a shot before it spends a couple of months at the factory. I had heard Smith and Wesson's quality had improved of late. Maybe not.

Does anyone remember the spring loaded button disassembly on the 22A and 22S?

Perhaps someone at S&W could explain how this system is an improvement. This pistol is a badge-engineered 22A/22S. As soon as I saw the introductory video touting the simple, single screw disassembly, it killed it for me.

Now, we have seen posts of these guns "disassembling themselves" when the screw vibrates loose, followed by posts about users being completely unable to unscrew the disassembly screw.

Sorry, but some designer at S&W should be called on the carpet over this fiasco.

Send it back, get it fixed, sell it, and but a Ruger Mark III.

 

[Tom S.]

Don't forget guys - righty tighty, lefty loosey.


Besides heat, use a "T" handled Allen wrench. It applies far superior control than an "L" shape does.

 

[Gunnerman]

Yes, I know which way to turn a screw. I put 200 rounds through the gun. I soaked it overnight in WD-40. I heated it as hot as I'm comfortable doing. I've broken 2 allen wrenches. And yes, I have a T handle wrench. I've had to regrind the tip 3 times due to it rounding off. I've removed a lot of screws from guns over the years that were staked, or had red thread locker on them. I've NEVER had one like this. Reading threads, it appears S&W has gone from using a screw that comes out by itself, to one that won't come out....ever. Which kind of defeats one of the main selling points of the gun....easy takedown.

 

[Magload]

Does anyone remember the spring loaded button disassembly on the 22A and 22S?

Perhaps someone at S&W could explain how this system is an improvement. This pistol is a badge-engineered 22A/22S. As soon as I saw the introductory video touting the simple, single screw disassembly, it killed it for me.

Now, we have seen posts of these guns "disassembling themselves" when the screw vibrates loose, followed by posts about users being completely unable to unscrew the disassembly screw.

Sorry, but some designer at S&W should be called on the carpet over this fiasco.

Send it back, get it fixed, sell it, and but a Ruger Mark III.

Just got my Ruger Mark III Competition and must say it is the first firearm I have ever owned that you were required a hammer to field strip and put back to gather. I cringed beating on the brand new gun but did it just like Ruger's video showed and it works.

I no longer am having screw problem but they should have used a system like Beretta used on the U22 I have no problems with it. If it had the Victory's trigger it would be a darn good gun.

 

[Magload]

Don't forget guys - righty tighty, lefty loosey.


Besides heat, use a "T" handled Allen wrench. It applies far superior control than an "L" shape does.

Tom I am glad you said that as I been wanting to ever since the first post that the screw wouldn't come out. Just figured most guys knew that saying and I would just offend them. One must be carefulnot offend anyone these days.

 

[Magload]

No need to take it apart anyway I can run a bore snake through the barrel and clean most of the important areas with the gun assembled. As long as it is working that is all I require. S&W will probably never tell us what they did but I sure would like to know. I wonder if they ever tested these guns and had the same problem or did they figure it wasn't really a problem?

 

[MichiganScott]

"L" shaped Allen wrenches are notoriously soft. I use the bits from Brownell's for the smaller screws and "T" handle wrenches from an old Craftsman set for the bigger ones. Never stripped out a screw or rounded a wrench. Good tools won't fail you.

 

[Nickanto]

A craftsman t-handle is what eventually stripped out the screw. Sparks flew.

 

[Tom S.]

Yes, I know which way to turn a screw. I put 200 rounds through the gun. I soaked it overnight in WD-40. I heated it as hot as I'm comfortable doing. I've broken 2 allen wrenches. And yes, I have a T handle wrench. I've had to regrind the tip 3 times due to it rounding off. I've removed a lot of screws from guns over the years that were staked, or had red thread locker on them. I've NEVER had one like this. Reading threads, it appears S&W has gone from using a screw that comes out by itself, to one that won't come out....ever. Which kind of defeats one of the main selling points of the gun....easy takedown.

"L" shaped Allen wrenches are notoriously soft. I use the bits from Brownell's for the smaller screws and "T" handle wrenches from an old Craftsman set for the bigger ones. Never stripped out a screw or rounded a wrench. Good tools won't fail you.

If you've reground the end of the wrench three times, it wasn't hard enough to begin with, and the heat from grinding it has probably softened it even more.

 

[Barrie]

You can also get some of the allen keys in a socket style set which may be the answer for the really tight ones. They usually are of a much stronger grade of steel to start with as well.

 

[AlwaysArmed]

Wiha Ball End Hex Inch L-Keys Long Arm | Wiha Tools USA