Sorry, but you can't simply explain this away as poor tools. If you are going to sell a gun that requires a tool to take down, and you supply a tool SPECIFICALLY for doing that, then that tool should be able to do the job. If it had worked in my case I wouldn't even be turning to other tools. But it didn't. I clamped the supplied hex wrench in vice grips and torqued the screw until the hex wrench broke. Snapped. Again, if the manufacturer supplies a tool to do a specific job, it's not unreasonable to expect that tool to perform the intended job.
S&W Victory takedown screw problem
- Thread starter Gunnerman
- Start date
Magload
US Veteran
I will agree with you on that. Maybe they will start supplying impact wrenches. I like those they look like a gun.
It's time to go to the experts, contact S&W customer service and explain the problem. They should email or fax you a shipping label and you can ship it back to the factory. They should repair the problem and ship it back to you at their expense. I've found S&W to be very responsive when there's a problem with one of their products.
Actually I can explain it exactly that way. I stopped using the old screw drivers S&W provided when I found out better ones by Brownells existed. Even though some of the factory screw drivers looked nice, they didn't fit all the screws correctly and a lot of S&W screw heads were mangled up with them. Same thing for lug wrenches on cars. I haven't used one of those worthless pieces of poo since the late 60's or early 70's. Manufacturers almost never supply a high quality tool for their product. You don't see cars shipped with a set of Snap-On tools, and it's for the same reason, cost.
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This is why virtually all good mechanics buy such expensive tools to work in their trade. I have well over $50,000 tied up in my roll-a-round cabinet alone myself. All Snap On or Proto and Mac. Even some Gray but only brands with lifetime warranty in my kits or they are not there. 37 different socket sets alone in various lengths and sizes. Wrenchs up to 2" and you have to have 2 of each as well in Metic and Imperial to work here in Canada. Adds up very quickly I can tell you. Even my cabinet was well over $2300. new as well.
After 40 years as an industrial Millwright these are the only Hex and Torx wrenches I will buy. Small ones, no matter what make they are will break but these last with daily use better than any I have used.
Now having said that I bought the SW22 Victory last week and had to put a 1/8 x6" pipe on the factory wrench to crack it loose. It was way to bloody tight for a screw of that size.
I actually thought I had broken the wrench but it had just snapped loose.
If you use the ball type of hex, remember it will not be as strong as the straight shank and you will break the ball off. Have fun getting that out of the socket if it binds.
The barrel screw wasn't tight at all. I cleaned the gun and tightened them back up with a 6" hex hand tight.
What I did notice though is the socket is not very tight on any of my Hex drives that I tried. IMO it could use a better quality socket head screw.
500 rounds and everything is still tight.
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http://www.bondhus.com/index.htmlNow having said that I bought the SW22 Victory last week and had to put a 1/8 x6" pipe on the factory wrench to crack it loose. It was way to bloody tight for a screw of that size.
I actually thought I had broken the wrench but it had just snapped loose.
If you use the ball type of hex, remember it will not be as strong as the straight shank and you will break the ball off. Have fun getting that out of the socket if it binds.
The barrel screw wasn't tight at all. I cleaned the gun and tightened them back up with a 6" hex hand tight.
What I did notice though is the socket is not very tight on any of my Hex drives that I tried. IMO it could use a better quality socket head screw.
500 rounds and everything is still tight.
Contacted Smith and Wesson today. They suggested take it to a gunsmith. I was waiting for him to say send us the bill or something, I was really confused. I asked who pays and he said I do unless I want to send it back for 4-6 weeks for repairs. He was well aware of the over tightning issue. I live out in the country so it's gonna be a 100 mile round trip at least for any gunsmith trip. Not a very satisfied customer.
I think I can justify work buying me a set of these......
The screw will be shot if I get it out, right?
Same Problem - Loose Screw
My Victory is about 400 rounds old and I have the same problem.
After about 50-75 rounds I have to retighten. Contacted S&W and here is their reply:
"Dear Customer,
We apologize for this inconvenience. We will send you a new takedown screw. Your order number is xxx.
If you are still experiencing this issue with the new screw, we would recommend sending the pistol in for evaluation.
Smith&Wesson values its customers and we are happy to have served you today. Please do not hesitate to contact us should you require further assistance.
Maybe if all of us who have the problem email them they might get the message that there is a problem.
I also bought a "T" handle wrench (Model # JTH6E13) $4.99 from Home Depot - that works well.
)
My Victory is about 400 rounds old and I have the same problem.
After about 50-75 rounds I have to retighten. Contacted S&W and here is their reply:
"Dear Customer,
We apologize for this inconvenience. We will send you a new takedown screw. Your order number is xxx.
If you are still experiencing this issue with the new screw, we would recommend sending the pistol in for evaluation.
Smith&Wesson values its customers and we are happy to have served you today. Please do not hesitate to contact us should you require further assistance.
Maybe if all of us who have the problem email them they might get the message that there is a problem.
I also bought a "T" handle wrench (Model # JTH6E13) $4.99 from Home Depot - that works well.
)
Magload
US Veteran
My Victory had a loose screw twice in the first 100 rounds. I cleaned the screw and hole well put a drop of purple Loc Tite on the screw and screwed it in then back out to get the stuff on all threads then torqued to 40 inch pounds with my Fat Wrench. 1360 rounds now and it hasn't moved. I put a small mark on the screw head and one on the frame with white paint pen so I could see if it moved, it hasn't. Had the same problem with the screws holding the rail and used blue on them but only 14lbs torque. You also need to wait 24 hours for the Loc Tite to completely cure. Other posters have used other methods on this forum that has worked for them. I really don't know what S&W could do to fix this but I like the gun so much I could live with it even if it kept coming loose. With the Volquartsen barrel this gun will out shoot my new Mark III Competition using the same optics and bench rest on both guns.
10P8TRIOT
Member
I'm pretty sure S&W knows they have a problem with the takedown screw; they hired the HULK to tighten the screw at the factory. I've recently seen 3 reports of people breaking hex keys trying to remove the takedown screw the 1st time. I developed the "loose takedown screw" problem at about 1200 rounds. I had been diligent about cleaning, lubricating and torquing the screw to 40 in-lbs, but that stopped working. I now use a drop of Vibra-Tite VC-3 on the threads every 3rd or 4th time I break down the pistol for cleaning. Also reduced the torque to 30 in-lbs. I haven't had a problem since and have put 3000 rounds thru the Victory. So for me, it's a non-issue.
Are you talking the screw head or the threads? Did you apply heat first?
Bought one yesterday and you can add me to the list of owners with a stuck takedown screw. Even after heating the barrel and screw to the point that the nose of the reciever started to turn straw colored, I still rounded over two hex keys including a T handle that shot sparks when it died.
While, in theory, the screw on the victory should be more convenient than my MkII, this certainly hasn't been thd case. Then again, I can't understand why people have such an issue with stripping and assembling Ruger's pistols. People who say it's hard to do must have a difficult time tying their shoes as well.
On the positive side of things the Victory ate 250rds of Federal Automatch bulk ammo flawlessly, and easily shot one hole 10rd groups at 10 yards or so today.
While, in theory, the screw on the victory should be more convenient than my MkII, this certainly hasn't been thd case. Then again, I can't understand why people have such an issue with stripping and assembling Ruger's pistols. People who say it's hard to do must have a difficult time tying their shoes as well.
On the positive side of things the Victory ate 250rds of Federal Automatch bulk ammo flawlessly, and easily shot one hole 10rd groups at 10 yards or so today.
Magload
US Veteran
I guess they got tired of people complaining about them coming loose.
I wonder if S&W got a hold of a batch of super glue instead of Locktite? There's no way these screws shouldn't come apart with a little heat and the proper wrench. As a full time die maker, part time mechanic and gunsmith with over 40 years experience, I've never heard of this many people having this much trouble with a darn screw. Apologies to those I slighted for not using the proper tools or techniques. 
S&W obviously has done something wrong to fix a problem that simple lite strength Locktite would have taken care of.
S&W obviously has done something wrong to fix a problem that simple lite strength Locktite would have taken care of.
Targets Guy
US Veteran
After reading this I have no problem that all I have to do is retighten after 50 rounds or so.
Magload
US Veteran
Hey maybe we should use a screw head that sticks out with a hole through it and we could safety wire it like we did on aircraft in the Navy.
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