What is going on with S&W?????

Tom S. said:
How many were sent in for service? From what I read, it's a black hole.
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That is the funny part of my $300 Taurus guns.
None of them have been sent back, although my dad did have an issue with a Titanium revolver, but they replaced it in about a month.
I agree 100% with the OP, when you are spending 1k plus on a gun,, get it right the first time.
 
You're right. This is very clearly a sign of substandard workmanship. I'll be very happy to PM you later with my FFL details to take that hunk of junk off your hands. I'll even trade you a nice Taurus for it.

Screws work loose. Especially on new guns. Fact of life.

As for the cylinder--read the manual.
 
Tom S. said:
...I'll never own a gun whose name sounds like someone throwing up in a wastepaper basket at a New Years Eve party.
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I reckon it's a good thing no gun names rhyme with Ralph or Buick.
barf.gif
 
Wise_A said:
You're right. This is very clearly a sign of substandard workmanship. I'll be very happy to PM you later with my FFL details to take that hunk of junk off your hands. I'll even trade you a nice Taurus for it.

Screws work loose. Especially on new guns. Fact of life.

As for the cylinder--read the manual.
Click to expand...

where in any manual does it say to constantly tighten screws?
Also S&W manual states to use solvent specifically made for firearms. I have never seen a hoppes #9 furniture polish or car wax, I only seen it for firearms.
 
The color change was a common problem when using Hoppes #9 on Nicked gun finishes. Had it happen to me once or twice or three.
I think all I did was lightly polish the gun with mothers mag or Simichrome and it went away, sometimes just rubbing the gun down with oil and a toothbrush worked.
I thought it said something on the Hoppes bottle about this occurrence.

So my assumption is that the finish on your gun is a type of brushed nickel finish or scandium.

Screws back out thats why there called screws, it allows them be removed. I have learned that checking screws is something that should be done before and after shooting and of course one can always use the blue or red loctight, can't remember the non-permerment one.
 
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Jim L said:
where in any manual does it say to constantly tighten screws?
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Something about inspecting a firearm prior to using it. The rest is just common sense and familiarity with the products you're using. You wouldn't douse wood and plastic grips with Gun Scrubber, would you?
 
Wise_A said:
Something about inspecting a firearm prior to using it. The rest is just common sense and familiarity with the products you're using. You wouldn't douse wood and plastic grips with Gun Scrubber, would you?
Click to expand...

I hope you never have to use your revolver in a self defense situation because it may not function with all the loose screws.
Either the trigger or cylinder will bind.
Man I hope my oil pan plug doesn't come loose (since all screws come loose) from the vibration of my engine
 
Jim L said:
I hope you never have to use your revolver in a self defense situation because it may not function with all the loose screws.
Either the trigger or cylinder will bind.
Man I hope my oil pan plug doesn't come loose (since all screws come loose) from the vibration of my engine
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Within the first 250 miles it would be OK though, factory warranty and all.
 
I agree with the OP. Top of the line firearm should be just that, top of the line!!! Issues with two recent PC firearms is not acceptable. I have owned over 100 S&W firearms thru the years and only had to ever send one back until recently. My new 986 PC has a horrible end shake, cylinder that is binding up, and a hammer that barely strikes the primer. I'm not hating on S&W, but Performance Center guns that need returned is unacceptable. So 2 S&W firearms out of 100+ being sent back in 25 years to me is a great testament to the quality of S&W.... but the PC gun issues bite. I'm OK now. Got my little rant out.
 
Notwithstanding the recent problems reported with the guns on the regular production line....one would think that a "custom" shop like the Performance Center would have experienced people at the end of the process armed with an inspection sheet. Sort of a "checklist if you will to be completed on each firearm before it leaves the production facility, and signed off by the person doing the examination and inspection.

I remember back in the dark ages, when we did our yearly breakdown and inspection of the duty and off duty revolvers (and the 870's) we had a checklist that we completed on each gun after the disassembly/cleaning and inspection.

The "revolver" list included the model and serial number, and the following: carry up SA/DA?, ck. push off/creep SA, cylinder bind opening/closing, front locking bolt ok?, cylinder rotation/free, extractor smooth?, extr rod tight?, rod run out?, extract alignment pins, sings SA/DA, SA pull 3lbs?, Hammer check out/wink?, rebound OK? (17 coils), trigger recovery, stop movement/4-way, front and rear gage check, excessive end shake on cyl/yoke?, mainspring strain screw tight?, thumbpiece nut tight? , cylinder stop holds, cylinder loose on stop?, stop slots in cyl/peening?, old style trigger stop? (remove), front/rear sights/sight tang screw, overall condition/lubrication? I still refer to this old list when working on a revolver.

Of course, some of the checks we did wouldn't apply to the current production guns, like our check for the extractor alignment pins for instance, and some would have to be added, like a visual inspection of the finish and barrel alignment, but it seems as though a complete checklist and thorough inspection would solve many of the recurring problems reported by end users.
 
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twodog is right. on every forum, qc is said to be down on all makes.
the comments on this site kept me from getting a new s&w.
instead, i got a 15-4 built in 1980.
since this is the best gun i've ever seen, i see no reason to buy new.
i don't think s&w can equal it today. it's beat up but perfect.
 
If the finish on newer guns can't stand up to a time-tested cleaning product and S&W isn't advertising this with clear warning labels, that really sucks. But you're getting way too bent out of shape over the possibility of having to use a little dab of loctite – that is just part of basic preventative maintenance. Be happy you caught it before backed out entirely, put some loctite on it, and snug it down again. In the grand scheme of things it is not worth getting upset about. The discoloration on your cylinder on the other hand... but before you waste any more energy being upset because you didn't read the manual cover to cover (which most people wouldn't bother doing either), try Mother's Mag polish like Penmon suggests and if it removes the discoloration, consider it a lesson learned relatively cheaply for the cost of a tube of loctite and jar of Mother's. And then buy the appropriate cleaning product for your new revolver!
 
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