Increasing Reloading Speed

cds43016

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I currently load on a Lee Turret Press for 357 Mag, 327 Federal Mag and 32 S&W Long. I shoot about 200+ rounds a week of 357 and maybe a couple hundred rounds each of the others in a year. My Lee Turret Press is set up to auto index with a case kicker from Inline Fabrication. This setup works great and produces quality ammunition. Caliber changeover is a snap. I have separate complete turrets set up for each caliber.

However, I don’t prime on the press. After tumbling I size and deprime on an old Lyman Spartan Press, inspect and then prime using a RCBS Bench Primer. All this for 100 rounds may take 30-35 minutes.

I then finish loading on the Turret Press. Since the cases are already sized and primed I can use the extra die position to mount an RCBS Powder Checker Die to verify the load from the Lee Drum Powder Measure. 357 and 327 cases are tall, narrow, and dark inside and my loads are light - a potentially troubling combination. The Powder Checker Die works great to minimize this. I still, however, make a final quick visual inspection with a swiveling mirror before seating the bullet as a double check. Additionally, I verify the charge weight every 25 rounds or so. Total time for this step including set up, reloading, final inspection and put away is about 55-60 minutes for 100 rounds.

I’m thinking of potentially adding a progressive press. Each week I’m starting to shoot increasingly more. I used a Lee 1000 many years ago, when I shot Bullseye. I loaded many thousands of rounds with it and hated every minute. Too much going on at once and most of it not right. The good news was that 45 ACP was easier to load in my view than 357. 45 ACP cases are short and wide which makes it easier to see what was going on in the case. I can’t imagine comfortably loading 357 on this press but I know people do. Back then too you had to figure everything out yourself. There was no internet.

I have been reviewing progressive presses over the last year and there are several great options out there. One weakness of all presses, including progressives, seems to be priming. I’ve never got it to work well with either Lee. On YouTube and this and other forums it’s the most mentioned problem with all presses. Primers get jammed up, end up on the floor, try to load sideways, upside down, high, not at all, detonate or worst of all chain detonate. This later problem is especially distressing and seems to be a problem most associated with the Dillon 650. It appears that rotary dial that feeds primers to the case is prone to a chain detonation so that if one goes off they all do including those in the primer tube. Dillon has built in safeguards and barriers on the press to minimize personal injury and property damage but a questionable design nevertheless. Better to prevent the problem than respond to it. Odd that this was never addressed with another design over the years other than shielding. There should be a 650B. Yet the 650 has been around a long time so Dillon considers it safe and the system must work. I understand that the 550 and 1050 are not as prone to chain detonation as the 650 since they use an on demand sliding bar primer feed as do most other progressive presses.

I know if things go right, priming on a press works very well. Millions of rounds have been loaded safely and successfully. Many never experience a problem and some responses I’m sure will confirm that. I just will never be comfortable with it. I guess I don’t like to walk and chew gum at the same time. I will probably always off press prime. However, I do want to increase my speed without compromising safety and peace of mind. I may be overly cautious but I respect the risks associated with reloading. It’s a great hobby and the only way you can afford to shoot more without winning the lottery. It’s indeed a riskier hobby than stamp collecting. Loading thousands of rounds on a Lee 1000 would make anyone overly cautious. However, the Lee Turret Press works very well.

I’ve been looking mostly at the Dillon 650 (surprised?) and Hornady Lock-N-Load AP Press. I like the idea of auto indexing especially if priming is disabled. Each press has its pluses and minuses – proponents and detractors. The press would be dedicated to the 357. The other calibers I would continue to load on the Lee Turret Press. Caliber changeover is not a major consideration.

The proposed load process would go something like this using Dillon nomenclature:
1) Dry Tumble cases as I do now
2) Install a separate Die Head in the press with just a Sizing Die and run the cases through to deprime. Should be very quick especially if I had a case feeder.
3) Inspect, clean primer pockets and hand prime. I know some don’t consider cleaning primer pockets necessary but I still do it. It makes me feel better. It’s easy to do and it’s relatively quick as part of case inspection. I use a bush in a Dremel Tool set at the lowest speed.
4) Store primed cases until have accumulated significant number to justify reloading (not something I do now – I don’t want the loading session to be too long. Concentration can be lost).
5) Replace the die head on press with one that contains a powder measure, a powder checker (a necessity) and seating and crimping dies. Load cases. Focus is just on getting the powder right and the bullet seated (the walking and gum thing). Again, should be very fast yet safe.
6) Final visual inspection and run through a Case Check Gauge.

It appears other than the manual priming many people do something similar already. Case prep, setup and inspection are usually not mentioned in discussing reloading speed. It’s just how fast the press spits rounds out. But these steps also take time.

For example, many people wet tumble cases. In almost all cases they deprime before wet tumbling on a separate press to be sure primer pockets are cleaned. Case inspection is next. Checking for split cases, steel pins from tumbling stuck in case, wrong caliber cases in the mix (a .380 in with 9 mm), a small primer case when expect a large (45 ACP), crimped primer pockets etc. All this takes time as does press setup such as loading primer tubes, powder filling and charge weight checking, final inspection and put away. With rifle, even worst - add lube and trim. We all do these steps to one degree or another depending on what we shoot and where our brass comes from. Some steps are fixed no matter what we use. I’m hoping that the most significant savings in time would be in actual reloading itself because of the increased efficiency of the press and doing larger batches in the same timeframe.

Does all this sound reasonable or am I expecting too much? What can I expect? I know I will never achieve the full potential of either press with the approach I propose but it’s something I’m very comfortable with. That matters too.

I don’t want to get into a blue vs red discussion. Both should work OK and are both good presses. I could live with either. I just wonder if I will experience significant enough increase in speed without compromising safety and peace of mind to justify the additional expense. What I have now works very well. I just want it to be faster.

As always thanks again in advance for your input.
 
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I also use the Lee turret press, but with about 12 different calibers.
Looked at progressives every which way and never made the leap.
Also decap and wet tumble.
The changeover between calibers on progressives seems to eliminate much of the time savings for me.
As one fan advised me, just buy 12 progressive presses, one for each caliber...
 
Wow, that's a LOT of information! I have the Lee Classic Turret and enjoy priming on it. I finally upgraded from an original Lee 3 hole turret, which I also primed on. The only press I don't particularly like priming on is my 1978 RCBS Reloader Special. Oh, nearly forgot-I have a new Lee Classic Cast which I also enjoy priming on. I have an original Lee Auto Prime hand unit that I have used for small lots on occassion.

I also deprime then wet tumble, which frees me from ever cleaning primer pockets. Once my cases are deprimed, cleaned and inspected the loading procedure is easy. I would think you could load 200 rounds of 357 ammo in an hour, once you were set to go with the LCT, and not be in a hurry to do so. I can't help with the progressive questions, as I've never owned or used one. Too much going on for me personally, as I like to have more control over each round than a progressive would allow me.

Find what works for you, I just don't like loading "in a hurry"; quality is more important to me than quantity.
 
Great discussion cds43016 especially about the priming and loss of attention while reloading. I follow a similar plan as you do now. I do not have any answers unfortunately.
I have a Lyman turret press, which I seldom use.
I clean and hand prime as you do but use 2 separate Lee single stage presses side by side. One uses the expand and Lee Auto Disk powder measure through the die. Next,remove cartridge, inspect powder level and seat and crimp on next die.
If my mind starts to drift,I leave and come back later.
 
Now that I got the Lee Safety Prime figured out and correctly setup on a Lee Classic Turret Press I do a lot more on press priming where as prior priming was all off press with a Lee hand primer.

I would hand prime while viewing this and other sites on a PC or watching dramas on the boob tube.

I deprime with a Lee Universal depriming die in an empty 4 hole turret before dry tumbling the cases.

The depriming pins are removed from the dies in the 4 die turrets.

About 95% of my reloading is 38spl and 45 Auto Rim.
 

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If your only experience on a progressive was a Lee 1000, I don't doubt you are traumatized. However, I think your approach to using a good progressive does little to increase safety, and add needless complications.
I use both turrets (Lee) and progressive (Dillon) and have more issues with the turret press than the Dillons. Once you try it a few times, Dillon caliber change is simple, and it is a good time to clean it, anyway.
I strongly suggest you find an instructor or mentor with Dillon or Hornady progressive and learn how to use a good progressive correctly. Then you can make an informed choice based on YOUR knowledge, not supposition from hearsay.
I teach and mentor reloaders, and you need some help.
I have had one person I've taught reloading that I finally told him to forget reloading, because he could not focus on what he was doing and do it correctly and consistently. I could give him a box of 1000 mixed brass to sort, and by halfway through he was mixing them back in the wrong boxes.
Other than him, everyone else has learned to use a Dillon correctly.
 
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I shoot about the same volume and calibers you do, OP. The only press I have ever had is an XL650, so I can't compare to others. It works pretty well for me. I have found any priming issue has to do with how well anchored the press is to the bench / table, and how smoothly the machine operates. The latter is very much effected by the brass being cycled. Brand new brass that's perfectly clean tends to be a bit grabby in the sizing die, and can really grab onto the expander. If that happens, and the press isn't rock solid to the bench, and the bench to the floor, the negative g-force of a stuck case releasing from a die can cause the primers to jump creating an opportunity for them to flip sideways/over.

I have two solutions for this: About 500lbs of bullet inventory on my bench shelves, and let my corn cob media get carboned up. Used media seems to put a dry film on the cases that makes them slide through the dies as if the are conventionally lubed.

I can easily get 500 rounds per hour with .45ACP / COLT and .44 Mag. The bullets of the larger rounds are just more tactile for my clumbsy fingers. I'm by no means trying to be preechy about my press. Like I said, it's the only one I've ever used / ever had, and I'm quite satisifed with it.

Though it wasn't asked, I will mention I MUCH prefer the RCBS lockout die to the Dillon powder check alarm for cranking out large batches of ammo. The lockout die actually "stops the press" :)
 
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I shoot about the same volume and calibers you do, OP. The only press I have ever had is an XL650, so I can't compare to others. It works pretty well for me. I have found any priming issue has to do with how well anchored the press is to the bench / table, and how smoothly the machine operates. The latter is very much effected by the brass being cycled. Brand new brass that's perfectly clean tends to be a bit grabby in the sizing die, and can really grab onto the expander. If that happens, and the press isn't rock solid to the bench, and the bench to the floor, the negative g-force of a stuck case releasing from a die can cause the primers to jump creating an opportunity for them to flip sideways/over.

I have two solutions for this: About 500lbs of bullet inventory on my bench shelves, and let my corn cob media get carboned up. Used media seems to put a dry film on the cases that makes them slide through the dies as if the are conventionally lubed.

I understand the importance of a solid bench. I keep heavy tool boxes under mine to keep it from moving. Rock solid.

I also have experienced the sticking problem with new brass. I also tumble new brass in used media to slick it up. It works real well.
 
I am not sure where you heard about primers chain detonation on a 650. It's almost impossible to happen as the primer that you are loading is NOT in line with the primer magazine. I only have about 10K thru mine, but 150K on a 550, never exp a chain reaction detonation of primers. I am not saying it can't happen, I just suspect something else was in play other than it just happened.
I teach this stuff & load on a 550 & 650. I have loaded a bit on a Hornady LNL. I have played with a Lee Loadmaster. If you really want speed & trouble free progressive, you do NOT buy a Lee. Priming is the single biggest headache on any progressive. The 650 is nearly perfect in this respect. The only thing I would change is a manual cutout, so you can cycle thru w/o advancing the priming wheel. Guys have rigged them but I would like to see it as a factory item. If the point of spending the $$ is to get trouble free progressive reloading, it really doesn't get much better than a Dillon.
If you want a case feeder, go 650. if you NEVER want a case feeder, then the LNL is a decent press. If you want pure simplicity in a progressive, then the Dillon 550B/C is hard to beat. Go fast, go slow, use it as a ss press or an inverted turret. The 550 will easily give you 450rds per hour, the 650 with case feeder, 700 is pretty reasonable. All will do this with 75% less work than any turret. I like options.
 
I have a Dillon 450 that over 35 years has been up graded to a 550b, I have easily loaded 1/2 million rounds on it. My F-I-L has 2 Dillon 1050's, with about 5 million rounds on them combined. Neither od us has had a single primer detonate at any time in the reloading process. Before his place burnt down, he had a Camdex reloader, with over 40 million 38 specials through it, again with out a primer detonation. ( I also had a Hornady L-N-L AP for a couple of years, but found it very poor compared to a 550b!, but never a primer detonation!)



Time has proven what the good ideas are and what aren't! All good progressive presses have shielding for safety in case of the unlikely, but loosing sleep isn't necessary!

I have had the 450/550 since 1984 and learned how to load fast with it! In my last upgrade I installed a case feeder. It dose make loading easier, it dose not make loading any faster (When you already know what you are doing). On either the 550 or the 1050 a bullet feeder won't increase speed either as long as you are hand powered. With the electric power supply systems the 1050 and the Hornady L-N-L systems take off. But my needs and your needs seem a little shy for that expense!

Real speed comes from having a good system, fluid motions and no distractions! The biggest slow down has always been, Primer replenishment! I own 10 large primer tubes and fill these when starting, That is 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 hours of loading. I take a break at that time. My F-I-L has 5 primer tubes per machine and with 3 people we load 4 or 5 hours without breaks. 2 people operate machines and the third keeps the primer tubes filled, and all the other components topped off. Every 500 rounds we shift positions (20-30minutes) If you move fast you can get a break in between shuffling components. With 2 1050's we can load over 10,000 rounds in a session! With the 1050, it takes care of primer crimps for you, so 223, 308, & 30-06 are as fast as 38 special (if you have to right dies).

This should give you an idea of what kind of output you can expect.

Ivan
 
I am not sure where you heard about primers chain detonation on a 650. It's almost impossible to happen as the primer that you are loading is NOT in line with the primer magazine. I only have about 10K thru mine, but 150K on a 550, never exp a chain reaction detonation of primers. I am not saying it can't happen, I just suspect something else was in play other than it just happened.

It has to do with the way primers are fed to the case in the 650. A primer going off at the case may chain back through the rotary primer disk and cascade to the primer magazine. Google 'Dillon 650 primer detonation' to see some examples. The 550 does not work the same way as do most other presses from my research. It may be rare but certainly an underwear changing experience at best.
 
Like you, I've used the Lee Classic Cast Turret press for a number of years but honestly always primed my cases on the press using their safety prime. Yep, occasionally I've flipped a primer on the floor but it's worked fine for me. For pistol cartridges, I've never seen the sense in primer pocket cleaning, even for bulls-eye loads. I just dry tumble clean my cases and then go to town. My output with the Lee was running around 150-170rd/hr.

I switched to the LnL AP press over a year ago and continue priming on the press without any problems. My output has just about doubled, and I don't have a case or bullet feeder. Just run at a reasonable pace that allows me to "eyeball" the powder charges, and that fifth station gives me room for the powder measure and still seat and crimp separately. The Hornady priming has been bullet-proof for me, once I cleaned off a few burrs on the primer shuttle. The slowest part about using the LnL is having to stop and refill my priming tubes(I'm too cheap to buy more spares I guess).

I'm sure that a Dillon 650 would also do just as well, as long as it's setup properly. FWIW, I didn't even look at the 550; after the LCT, going to a manually indexing setup just seemed like taking a step backwards.
 
I'd be curious to know, not first hand though, what exactly it takes to get a primer to go of on the deck of a press. I'm wondering because I certainly mangled, and I mean completely destroyed, a few primers when I started out. I was shocked to see the condition of the destroyed primers. I was surprised they didn't go off. Maybe I wasn't pushing the handle back fast enough to get a reaction? I go easy on the back stroke (primer seating on a 650) as a precautionary measure.
 
I'd be curious to know, not first hand though, what exactly it takes to get a primer to go of on the deck of a press. I'm wondering because I certainly mangled, and I mean completely destroyed, a few primers when I started out. I was shocked to see the condition of the destroyed primers. I was surprised they didn't go off. Maybe I wasn't pushing the handle back fast enough to get a reaction? I go easy on the back stroke (primer seating on a 650) as a precautionary measure.

Just from what I read, somehow in the process a primer is pinched or crushed in the press. It could be from trying to insert a primer in a case that already has one, trying to put large primer in a small primer pocket (you have to love the guy that decided to put small primer pockets in 45 ACP), priming a case that has a primer crimp that wasn't removed, trying to load a sideways primer or primer that just gets somewhere where it shouldn't. The list can go on. I guess whether it goes off depends on what's happening and the force applied. It also may depend on the primer brand being used. Some are more sensitive than others. There is also some luck (or bad luck) involved. The key is how the press reacts and how the force is contained.
 
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If you want to increase production, I would suggest first streamlining your current setup.

Deprime/resize and prime all on the Lee Turret. Does it take some adjustment? Sometimes. Is there a skill curve? Yes. But I hardly ever have a primer hit the floor anymore. When you're starting out, cup your off-hand under the primer dispenser, and don't lower until the dispenser swings away freely.

Without the Inline Fab accessories, I've hit 225 rounds in an hour (9mm). .38 is a bit slower (more checking involved in the longer case), but completing all the operations on a single press still nets me well over 125 an hour, even at a leisurely pace.

Folks will debate on the value of a powder checker. Personally, I've never used one, but I spend a long time weighing every charge of a new load. You can try out Inline's press-mounted lights, or a cheap reading light rubber-banded to the press.

To be honest, if you're dissatisfied with your production, it's because you're using your turret press as a single-stage, my friend.
 
It has to do with the way primers are fed to the case in the 650. A primer going off at the case may chain back through the rotary primer disk and cascade to the primer magazine. Google 'Dillon 650 primer detonation' to see some examples. The 550 does not work the same way as do most other presses from my research. It may be rare but certainly an underwear changing experience at best.

I understand fully, I run both presses. Possible, sure anything is possible, people get struck by lightning & win the lotto. I submit still, something else happened other than normal priming. I have crushed primers in my 650, never a detonation. Even if it did, the steel tube will protect the reloader better than anything Lee ever built. I do know several reloaders injured by detonations using their Lee however. Why Lee specifically states to NOT use Federal primers. I am pretty sure Dillon has no such admonition.
 
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Just from what I read, somehow in the process a primer is pinched or crushed in the press. It could be from trying to insert a primer in a case that already has one, trying to put large primer in a small primer pocket (you have to love the guy that decided to put small primer pockets in 45 ACP), priming a case that has a primer crimp that wasn't removed, trying to load a sideways primer or primer that just gets somewhere where it shouldn't. The list can go on. I guess whether it goes off depends on what's happening and the force applied. It also may depend on the primer brand being used. Some are more sensitive than others. There is also some luck (or bad luck) involved. The key is how the press reacts and how the force is contained.

This is the point, crushing a primer slowly does nothing. I have done it dozens of times. Crush it flat, anvil up or down, crush it sideways, nothing. I suspect 99% of primer detonations is the user forcing the priming issue by slamming the press handle forward. This is exactly how a primer is designed to fire, by impact.
I load every primer on my 650, even the Federal, when I can find them. Just don't use the handle as a mallet, slow steady pressure & you will never have a detonation. Well never say never, again, people do win the lotto.
Fwiw, i have the occasional sp 45 get in my 650, you feel it right away. The only way that primer fires is if you slam the handle forward & force it. That is a user error. Slow & steady, i still get 700rds in an hour.
 
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Having used the Lee 1000, I understand your concerns. It works but it is finicky. I find the Dillon Square Deal to function far more reliably. It is cheap enough to keep one set up for .38/357 and another for .45 ACP.

The low volume stuff is handled with a Lyman Spar-T I have been using since Eisenhower was in office.
 
Just from what I read, somehow in the process a primer is pinched or crushed in the press. It could be from trying to insert a primer in a case that already has one, trying to put large primer in a small primer pocket (you have to love the guy that decided to put small primer pockets in 45 ACP), priming a case that has a primer crimp that wasn't removed, trying to load a sideways primer or primer that just gets somewhere where it shouldn't. The list can go on. I guess whether it goes off depends on what's happening and the force applied. It also may depend on the primer brand being used. Some are more sensitive than others. There is also some luck (or bad luck) involved. The key is how the press reacts and how the force is contained.

I've done just about all of the above, and no bang. As I stated earlier I suspect I prime too gently in most cases to cause a problem. I suspect folks setting off primers are a bit too quick with the priming ram...quick enough to make them do what they are supposed to do.

I really wouldn't worry about it too much.
 
Well, if you are determined to prime off press, your process seems reasonable. That was the question, right?

I would suggest using your Lee Turrent Press to deprime and size, if you have room for two presses on your bench. Or us Inline Fabrication Mount with quick change. I've had good experiences with it.

I've recently switched from a Lee Turrent to a progressive (unnamed per your request). Been happy with the change, though, there was a bit of a learning curve.

Good luck with your search.
 
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