barrel leading
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muddocktor
Member
My thoughts are that you might get away with it on a slightly leaded barrel, but if it's heavily leaded you stand the risk of a severe overpressure situation due to a partially obstructed bore. All the lead is bound to increase resistance, which will let pressures rise to dangerous levels.
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That's one of those "conventional wisdom" tenets from way back. Sometimes it works, sometimes it partially works, but that's based only on my cursory glances over years of occasionally trying the procedure. I've never used my borescope to verify how much lead was actually removed or how much may have been ironed into the grooves.
When I have leading, I prefer a brush and solvent. Ideally, however, it's best to figure out what is causing the leading and correct the problem.
When I have leading, I prefer a brush and solvent. Ideally, however, it's best to figure out what is causing the leading and correct the problem.
ArchAngelCD
Moderator, SWCA Member, Absent Comrade
I would never do it.
Job 1 is to find out why you are getting leading in the first place. Lead too soft? Lead too hard? Improper bullet fit and more.
Soak the inside of the barrel with a good lead cleaner and let it sit for an hour or more. Use a nylon brush for light leading or a bronze brush wrapped in copper chor-boy for heavier leading. That will get the bore clean but again, find out why you are leading in the first place.
Job 1 is to find out why you are getting leading in the first place. Lead too soft? Lead too hard? Improper bullet fit and more.
Soak the inside of the barrel with a good lead cleaner and let it sit for an hour or more. Use a nylon brush for light leading or a bronze brush wrapped in copper chor-boy for heavier leading. That will get the bore clean but again, find out why you are leading in the first place.
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I certainly hope common sense would prevail in a situation where the lead buildup is severe, to the point where the leading forms a bore obstruction. Mild, barely visible leading is hardly such a condition, but I still question whether the firing of a jacketed bullet is preferable to removing the lead with solvent and a brush.
boatbum101
Member
That aint a good idea . To have good results with cast bullets in a revolver it's necessary that cylinder throats be larger than bore . You want the bore to be as slick as possible . Any tight spots in bore should be lapped out . If you firelap do not use jacketed bullets , use soft lead & just enough powder to have bullet clear the barrel no more . Clean & reslug bore often as you don't want to overdo it . Many Rugers have undersize cylinder throats that must be reamed or honed to correct size . This should be done prior to lapping bore . Often the bore will have tight spots that need to be lapped out usually where barrel is screwed into frame , sight dovetails , roll marks on barrel can all be potential tight spots . All that done , Size your bullets .002 larger than final bore dimension . Bullets should be able to be pushed through cylinder throats with light to moderate pressure . Alloy must be correct for pressure of the load . Bullets must fit the gun . A quality lube should be used . If leading occurs it's usually due to undersized bullets , too hard an alloy , undersize cylinder throats , rough bore & wrong lube . You get everything right you should have next to none . Once barrel is seasoned you can just run some patches down barrel & you're good to go .
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There are many ways to solve this issue. Some loads lead worse than others. Universal loaded at start loads with swagged bullets for example will lead like there's no tomorrow. Solution. stay within 10% of DNE load, once you have worked your way up there. I did this with Trail Boss, and ended up with a sweet load that was light, yet didn't lead much at all.
However, when you do get leading, it isn't hard to clean out. Lead will oxidize, and a good cleaner helps it to do just that. After a couple of weeks, I'll go back and clean it again with a bronze tornado brush, then follow that with my normal cleaning. Barrel looks great. I shoot 99% lead. I'd go photography my barrel if I wasn't lazy. LOL Maybe I'll get s photo this afternoon.
However, when you do get leading, it isn't hard to clean out. Lead will oxidize, and a good cleaner helps it to do just that. After a couple of weeks, I'll go back and clean it again with a bronze tornado brush, then follow that with my normal cleaning. Barrel looks great. I shoot 99% lead. I'd go photography my barrel if I wasn't lazy. LOL Maybe I'll get s photo this afternoon.
I fired revolvers extensively when I was a young cop and all we had was lead for training and duty rounds. I hand loaded quite a bit and found lead can really make a mess of a barrel with high velocity rounds. I used solvents, a cleaning brush, and a "Lewis lead remover" (you are obviously a young pup if you have to ask), all with minimal success for the hours of work. I later found an item which will remove your lead easily. I found the initial cleaning tool at a gun show which was marketed by a firearms company. I later found the identical item marketed at a very inexpensive price. I am going to list the first supplier (with pricing at mere $4.99) so you will verify my claim that it's actually used for lead removal.
https://www.midway.usa.com/product/939195748
Now I am going to save you money and tell you where to find it at a very inexpensive price. Go to your local grocery store and get the identical same thing for much less. Here is a link to the same product at Amazon but it's 1/2 the price of Midway and you get three of them for less than the price of one at midway.
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-214C-Stainless-Scrubbing-Scouring/dp/B002CQTXBC[/URL]
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-214C-Stainless-Scrubbing-Scouring/dp/B002CQTXBC"]Amazon.com: Scotch-Brite Stainless Steel Scouring Pad 214C (Pack of 3): Computers & Accessories[/ame]
Cut a little bit of this pad off and wrap it on a wire or nylon bore brush and use it as you normally would in your bore. You will be shocked to see the lead falling right out with a few passes. I used this for 40 years and it's amazing.
You can also use this same pad for removing rust from the surface of a neglected firearm. I was concerned about trying it at first and I used an oil on the surface along with the pad. It takes rust right off and it does not harm the blue or stainless finish. I know you will be cautious at first, just like I was. You'll like this and you will never be without one again. It also works to clean the powder burns from the face of the cylinder and similar places.
Enjoy this time saving item and try it on rust if you run across it on a firearm.
https://www.midway.usa.com/product/939195748
Now I am going to save you money and tell you where to find it at a very inexpensive price. Go to your local grocery store and get the identical same thing for much less. Here is a link to the same product at Amazon but it's 1/2 the price of Midway and you get three of them for less than the price of one at midway.
https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-214C-Stainless-Scrubbing-Scouring/dp/B002CQTXBC[/URL]
[ame="https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-214C-Stainless-Scrubbing-Scouring/dp/B002CQTXBC"]Amazon.com: Scotch-Brite Stainless Steel Scouring Pad 214C (Pack of 3): Computers & Accessories[/ame]
Cut a little bit of this pad off and wrap it on a wire or nylon bore brush and use it as you normally would in your bore. You will be shocked to see the lead falling right out with a few passes. I used this for 40 years and it's amazing.
You can also use this same pad for removing rust from the surface of a neglected firearm. I was concerned about trying it at first and I used an oil on the surface along with the pad. It takes rust right off and it does not harm the blue or stainless finish. I know you will be cautious at first, just like I was. You'll like this and you will never be without one again. It also works to clean the powder burns from the face of the cylinder and similar places.
Enjoy this time saving item and try it on rust if you run across it on a firearm.
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S&WIowegan
US Veteran
I know people who devoutly believe they delead their barrel by firing jacketed ammo. Maybe if the leading is minimal and soft the jacketed bullet will remove it.
If the leading is heavy, firing jacketed ammo seems to just smooth the lead in the bore. Six weeks later the bore will show some lead bits which have worked out of the bore due to oxidation.
If the leading is heavy, firing jacketed ammo seems to just smooth the lead in the bore. Six weeks later the bore will show some lead bits which have worked out of the bore due to oxidation.
My SBH would lead up from forcing cone to muzzle with only a few cylinders no matter what lead bullets I used. Had the throats opened up to .432 and 11 degree cut to forcing cone. Now I can shoot several hundred through it and get only a couple of slivers just in front of the forcing cone.
I tried shooting plated and jacketed bullets to remove the lead but there will still be very small slivers left. Something I would never try before to remove the large amount of leading before having this work done to it.
Using a bronze brush removes the little amount of lead in a couple of strokes now.
I would suggest to your friend to get his Blackhawk checked out by a good Smith before trying to shoot the lead out. Because it does not remove it.
I tried shooting plated and jacketed bullets to remove the lead but there will still be very small slivers left. Something I would never try before to remove the large amount of leading before having this work done to it.
Using a bronze brush removes the little amount of lead in a couple of strokes now.
I would suggest to your friend to get his Blackhawk checked out by a good Smith before trying to shoot the lead out. Because it does not remove it.
Inusuit
Member
A friend and I shot a lot of lead SWC bullets in IPSC competition. He was convinced that a jacketed bullet removed lead deposits from his .45 ACP. My opinion was that the jacket merely "ironed" the lead into the grooves so it appeared lead was removed.
I had an Outers Foul Out system which we used on his barrel. Lead came out in strips.
So I have the opinion that it's an old wive's tale.
I had an Outers Foul Out system which we used on his barrel. Lead came out in strips.
So I have the opinion that it's an old wive's tale.
Horrible photo, but it's a $30 phone. 
This really wasn't leaded to bad to begin with as I'm shooting Universal with 158gr, LRNFP at 10% under DO Not Exceed Load. These bullets were Hunters Supply brand. Bronze brush & Remingtom Bore Brite was all that I used. I know that the photo would mean more from the throat side, but I can't get my phone up there.
Anyways, The right load/bullet and your troubles melt away. Be patent in your cleaning. I never worry about lead the day I get back from the range. I get the gunk out. and put in a good coating of bore cleaner. It's usually about a week later, I get to working on the lead. I do the same for my 44, (This is a 38spcl S&W 64) I get to the range about once a month, so there is time. I wish I could get there more, but life has demands.
This really wasn't leaded to bad to begin with as I'm shooting Universal with 158gr, LRNFP at 10% under DO Not Exceed Load. These bullets were Hunters Supply brand. Bronze brush & Remingtom Bore Brite was all that I used. I know that the photo would mean more from the throat side, but I can't get my phone up there.
Anyways, The right load/bullet and your troubles melt away. Be patent in your cleaning. I never worry about lead the day I get back from the range. I get the gunk out. and put in a good coating of bore cleaner. It's usually about a week later, I get to working on the lead. I do the same for my 44, (This is a 38spcl S&W 64) I get to the range about once a month, so there is time. I wish I could get there more, but life has demands.
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boatbum101
Member
Never ever put a stainless brush or strips of a stainless cleaning pad in your barrel . Use bronze brushes & copper only cleaning pad strips . Stainless will scratch & damage a bore .
I have used jacketed ammo to clean out lightly leaded barrels. Works great. A cylinder full cleans out leading nice. I would not do this on a heavy leaded barrel, as pressures will rise. As suggested in an earlier post, a Lewis lead remover works great. They are marketed now under various names. I would not use steel wool on your barrel. Cylinder yes, barrel no. Although it works great, it will eventually score your barrel, affecting accuracy. Get bronze wool, sometimes marketed as Chore Boy. Available online or your local grocery store. This has all the advantages of steel wool, without damaging your barrel, as it is softer than steel. Just wrap some around an old cleaning brush, making a snug fit in your barrel, and you are good to go.
fredj338
Member
No what happens is you iron the lead into the pores of the steel & never really get it out. Then follow with more lead & any copper in there strips more lead, & so on. Just clean the bore properly. Better still, use proper size bullets & they wont lead.
I use mostly coated bullets...
...maybe some plated some jacketed. I don't use plain lead except for .38 wadcutters. Even when I did use lubed hard cast bullets I've had the chore boy covered bronze brush very tightly down my barrels and haven't seen any lead. Maybe I'm just lucky but I figger I will worry about it when it's a problem.
...maybe some plated some jacketed. I don't use plain lead except for .38 wadcutters. Even when I did use lubed hard cast bullets I've had the chore boy covered bronze brush very tightly down my barrels and haven't seen any lead. Maybe I'm just lucky but I figger I will worry about it when it's a problem.
Funflyer
Member
I avoid leading altogether by powder-coating my castings. Have pushed some to 1400fps and so far, so good.
This has been argued before, but here is my take on this issue. I cannot fathom on how a softer copper jacket can swage lead into the metal pores, of a much harder steel barrel. The steel has only so many pores. A smooth finished bore has fewer pores than a rougher finished bore does. After they are allegedly filled, then what? If there is any lead swaging to be done, it will be into the softer copper bullet, which will leave the barrel.
In any of my firearms, I have not seen lead forged into steel. The barrels are spotless afterwards. Others will disagree with this, and maybe they are right, but until I see a scientific lab analysis, with empirical evidence, all arguments, pro and con, will just be opinions.
Properly sized bullets to cylinder throat size, virtually eliminates leading, maybe a few whisps at the rifling leade, that's it. I have done my own powder coating, and the bullets leave the bore spotless. If you already have casting and sizing equiptment, for about $25 and an old toaster oven, you too can powder coat your bullets.
In any of my firearms, I have not seen lead forged into steel. The barrels are spotless afterwards. Others will disagree with this, and maybe they are right, but until I see a scientific lab analysis, with empirical evidence, all arguments, pro and con, will just be opinions.
Properly sized bullets to cylinder throat size, virtually eliminates leading, maybe a few whisps at the rifling leade, that's it. I have done my own powder coating, and the bullets leave the bore spotless. If you already have casting and sizing equiptment, for about $25 and an old toaster oven, you too can powder coat your bullets.
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LoboGunLeather
US Veteran
I have been casting and shooting lead-alloy bullets since 1973, and have gone through tens of thousands. Probably the single most interesting segment of the shooting & reloading hobby, in my opinion.
I could offer some thoughts on how to deal with leading, and some more thoughts on how to avoid leading from occurring, but all that would do is fuel the arguments for and against any aspect of the subject.
All I will say now is that experiencing a serious leading problem one time should be sufficient to cause a person to learn more about what he is doing.
I could offer some thoughts on how to deal with leading, and some more thoughts on how to avoid leading from occurring, but all that would do is fuel the arguments for and against any aspect of the subject.
All I will say now is that experiencing a serious leading problem one time should be sufficient to cause a person to learn more about what he is doing.
