I think on that one the barrel is tightened by a T handle plug that exactly fits the rifling. If making a new barrel, I would put holes in the front of the barrel for a pin spanner, hex in front of the shroud, nut on the front end, or some other way to tighten it without touching the rifling. It doesn't have to be exactly the same as the original when you're making your own.
With the nut on the front option (like Dan Wesson), you can adjust the cylinder gap independently of tightening the barrel.