I think I need a 617 10-shot. Anything bad I should watch out for?

I traded my lightly used Glock 48 plus $75 for a brand new 617 with a 4 inch barrel a couple of months ago. Very happy with the trade. Extraction is sometimes a little sticky but no real issues.

I want to shoot mine more before I change anything. But right now a lighter return spring is the only thing I am considering changing.

I bought a Ruger GP-100 in 22 LR right after they came out and sold it a few months later. The trigger on the GP-100 was 16 pounds DA, 7 pounds SA and somehow felt heavier than it really was. The 617 has a heavy DA pull but to me it feel lighter than it really is. The 617 balances better for me (at least the 4 inch model I have does). Cosmetically the Ruger had some some casting marks that bothered me a lot more than the lock on the 617 does. Tbe GP-100 was accurate and reliable but given a choice between it and the 617 I will take the 617 every time.

The real question you should be asking yourself is do you want a 617 with a 4 inch barrel or the 6 inch barrel. The correct answer is 4 inches but a surprising number of people will try to lead you astray and recommend the 6.
 
The real question you should be asking yourself is do you want a 617 with a 4 inch barrel or the 6 inch barrel. The correct answer is 4 inches but a surprising number of people will try to lead you astray and recommend the 6.

Yes, that is a dilemma. The six inchers are more common but I like the look of the four inchers more. I'm going to eventually use this for .22 pistol competition and will be putting a red dot on it, so barrel length isn't critical. If I can find a four incher at a good price, I'll probably go in that direction.
 
I absolutely LOVE my 617-6. It's FUN and absolutely perfect in fit and finish. In that "If you could only keep one..." scenarios it would be my 4" 617-6 without hesitation. I wish I'd picked one up sooner.
 
I wanted one too but won't buy any S&W with a hole. Just my preference. After searching for a used one I couldn't find one that met my price point.

I came across a lightly used late model 10 shot Ruger GP 100 that only had 10 rounds down the tube. At $400 I couldn't turn it down.

It has a trigger that rivals any of my Smiths. Its as accurate as any of my K-22s.

I'll still entertain a 617, but I'm quite happy with the Ruger.

Congratulations, as you are the only person I have heard say that a 10-shot .22LR GP-100 has a trigger that rivals S&W's.

If I could find a .22 LR GP-100 with a trigger like that, I'd pay a lot more then $400 for it.

The problem, at least for me, is that every .22LR GP-100 I've ever shot have had HORRENDOUS (IMHO) triggers, and I have yet to find one that I'd want.

I'll keep looking for that "Unicorn" GP-100 .22LR, that you seem to have found, but I won't hold my breath.
 
Two years ago I traded a Remington light 20 for a 4". No regrets! It's balanced very well, probably the most accurate 22 revolver I've ever shot and has an amazing double action trigger. My only complaint is it's a bit on the heavy side but this may contribute to accuracy.

I looked at. 6" but it's just too front heavy. If Smith would introduce a model with a shorter lug it would be much more appealing to me.

I really recommend the 4" for all around great shooting.
 
I had a no lock 10 shot 617 with the aluminum cylinder. Didn't like it, so I bought a new 6 shot cylinder and fit it to the gun, and filed the ratchets to fit the hand. Gave the gun to our Son, but it was stolen in a burglary along with several others that I had given him.:(
 
I had a no lock 10 shot 617 with the aluminum cylinder. (

Ah, that explains a couple of no-lock 617s I saw in an online auction. I looked at the photos and thought it weird that the cylinders were a different color than the rest of the gun. These obviously have aluminum cylinders then. I definitely want a steel cylinder. Thanks!
 
Bought my 617-6 4" early last year. excellent fit/finish and no issues thus far. Decent double action trigger and awesome single action. Added Altamont round to square butt rosewood grips. Very close in weight and balance to my 586-8 4" making for cost effective target practice. As a side note, you can also fire 22S or 22L with no problem in these days of severe ammo shortages.
 
Bought one new several years back. As usual, I fired many different brands and weights to see what it liked. About half of the brands had extraction problems. Sent it back to S&W where they reworked the chambers. After that it had no problems but I sold it any way. The 10 shot was new at the time so I'm guessing QC was still assessing the parameters.
 
My 4" is the only revolver I have with a lock and it doesn't bother me at all. I'm much more interested in how it shoots and how good the trigger is vs something cosmetic.

I'd compare the lock to when Smith quit recessing chambers and pinning the barrel. Neither made any difference in performance but old timers like my dad hated that Smith stopped recessingvand pinning. To me this is just another phase of production.
 
My 4" is the only revolver I have with a lock and it doesn't bother me at all. I'm much more interested in how it shoots and how good the trigger is vs something cosmetic.


I'd compare the lock to when Smith quit recessing chambers and pinning the barrel. Neither made any difference in performance but old timers like my dad hated that Smith stopped recessingvand pinning. To me this is just another phase of production.

A little history from my old brain:

There were a very few cases, VERY early on when the lock would lock while shooting (as I remember?) but the problem was quickly resolved by S&W. There was a parts kit available from a forum member that one could install, blue or stainless, to eliminate the lock. There was/is a certain skill level for installation. I did it twice and I can say, anecdotally that it worked very well for me. It's kind of like the magazine safety on the Browning High Power. If you can feel it and that bothers you, it's pretty simple to fix. On the other hand, think about all the morons who thought that because they took the magazine out, the gun was not loaded. Then they proceeded to kill their friend or loved one.

The lock and mag safety both serve a particular purpose, but the responsibility is on the person who owns the gun to make sure that person covers the bases. I've talked with lock gun owners who had children in their house and I would tell them to keep that key on a chain around their neck, just in case the weapon was needed in an emergency.

Hopefully I have not misrepresented any thing of S&W's or the forum. It's all from memory. The rest is opinion.
 
I hope to own one someday too... a 10-shot Model 617... but it will be an oldie with the stainless cylinder or nothing. :) Yes, hard to find for sure, but I'm old and can't get past certain unmentionable nouveau features. :o
 
Last word on the lock.
I don't like ammo failures, duds. I don't like ammo that might lock up do to primer blow-back, loading your ammo is trail and error. Or safety lock-up for what ever the reason. I have experienced some of this.

When the S&W lock first appeared I just didn't like the look of a hole on the left side of the gun. Not good. So I shied away for any purchase with the lock. However, when I did buy two other S&W guns with the lock, I installed the plug on the both guns with the lock. A 586 and a 686. To me it is more of the looks than any lock failure. But the plug covers both events. I like the 'Plug' and would add another one if the next gun needed one.

Now my Springfield TRP has a grip hammer lock, but I never think about it. Taurus handguns have a hammer lock on the back of the hammer. That would not bother me on a Smith & Wesson. So for me it is mostly Cosmetic. That's all I'm goina say about that.

Two with the 'Plug'



 
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The bug has hit me that I need to get a 617 10-shot .22LR. The online reviews I've seen of them all seem to be pretty positive. But I wanted to ask you all, because I know you won't sugar coat your thoughts on it. Anything bad I should watch out for?

Short answer, No. I bought my 617-6 with a 4" barrel five years ago. No problems with it at all. About a year or two later, I found out, on this site, that some of the barrels left the factory canted. I'd been shooting mine and never noticed it, but once I took a closer look, by Jove, mine was canted. About 1 or 2 degrees. Had no impact whatsoever on how it shot at the distances I shoot it. A non-issue for me. Ditto for the whole beat-to-death lock issue.

It is my favorite 22LR revolver, and the prime reason I sold my Ruger Single Ten.

My only tip is to put a piece of painter's tape on the cylinder when you're cleaning the chambers so you don't lose track of which have already been cleaned. Sounds silly, but when you put 10 holes in the cylinder, it is possible to forget where you started.

Other than that, buy it and have fun shooting it. I'm not very good with handguns, but the 617 makes me seem like I'm more accurate than I really am. The 617 is a great gun.
 
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There is a black one (6" 617) for sale in my area. Has to be a Cerakote job. Interesting, but I'll pass. :cool:
 
Like all guns, these are tough to find right now. Two LGSs have the 6", but I want the 4" after thinking on it. The search is on to find one at realistic price.
 
The only potential problem is occasionally you will get a K Frame 22 where the chambers are tight, and after 2 or 3 cylinder full's might have sticky extraction. This is a historical problem with S&W 22's going back to the 30's. It is easily resolved by having the chambers reamed with a standard finishing reamer by someone knowledgeable. Other than that I see no downsides to any K Frame 22, especially the 617 10 shot.

 
I bought my 617 6" a couple of years ago. Glad I got it then - price is up almost $200 from the retail I paid. Currently I have a Sig Romeo 5 on it - a bit big, but actually helps bring the balance point back a little from the weight of the full lug. Almost boringly accurate with practically any .22 I use in it.
 

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