Finish reaming K22s, or, How To Solve Difficult Extraction In .22lr S&Ws

I’ve had my K22 since early 60s, got it NIB on a trade. It has extracted hard ever since. The K22 impressed a lot of guys with its accuracy. Not many had a handgun and if they did it was a H&R, IJ or such. The only time I shoot enough that extraction is a problem is targets. I wouldnt ream my cylinders and chance loosing accuracy. I keep it clean and put up with it.
 
BC38, is the reamer gonna go to acorn? Want to keep it going to who ever needs it.
Yessir it is.

I just finished doing both my cylinders.

BTW, I thought about doing the cylinders on my M43 (aluminum) but I'm thinking that might not be a good idea. Seems like it would be too easy to take off too much material.

Anybody ever reamed an aluminum cylinder before? Good idea? Bad idea?

Acorn, PM me your address so I can get the package headed your way.
 
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You won't take off too much material, but if the alum. is anodized (very likely) it would remove the coating and may dull the reamer. Anodizing is aluminum oxide, which is a very hard material.
 
You won't take off too much material, but if the alum. is anodized (very likely) it would remove the coating and may dull the reamer. Anodizing is aluminum oxide, which is a very hard material.
The cylinder bores wouldn't be anodized - would they?
I know the exterior of all the parts are, including the cylinder, but I wouldn't expect the bores to be.
I suppose they could be though.
I probably shouldn't risk it.
 
I heard from Customer Service today on the 351C I sent back about a month ago. It has been determined to be unrepairable and they will be sending me a replacement under warranty. I just have to designate a FFL to take delivery and they will send it along in a couple of weeks.

An interesting note in the email was that if there were any aftermarket items, such as grips or sights that I wanted from the old guy to let them know and they would send them to me.

It's probably still prudent to remove any of those items before sending a gun in for evaluation and repair, but it's good to know that they acknowledge that people do add items to their guns sometimes.

I'm really surprised that they are replacing the firearm. I expected that they'd ream the chambers or maybe replace the cylinder if it was some other sort of issue.
 
I am surprised that they are making you go to a FFL to pick up the replacement. They are allowed by law, to send the replacement directly back to you, as you are the original owner. In my personal experience, in your situation, they destroy the original receiver, and put the same SN# on the new replacement receiver, which allows them to do this. The only reason I can think of involving a FFL, is they picked a new revolver from stock to send back to you, and need a 4473 form, to reconcile the different serial numbers.
 
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It's the same thing they did back in 2012 when the replaced my original 442 in Satin Nickel with a 642 due to a frame crack. Brand new production gun with a new SN. In that case, I don't think that they could transfer the SN because the guns were not identical.

In this case, I think they are picking one out of stock. The email included a SKU number which I forget off hand.

Either way, a brand new gun is good customer service.

I am surprised that they are making you go to a FFL to pick up the replacement. They are allowed by law, to send the replacement directly back to you, as you are the original owner. In my personal experience, in your situation, they destroy the original receiver, and put the same SN# on the new replacement receiver, which allows them to do this. The only reason I can think of involving a FFL, is they picked a new revolver from stock to send back to you, and need a 4473 form, to reconcile the different serial numbers.
 
A new serial numbered gun must go via FFL. If not the law it’s S&W policy afaik. . I’ve had it done that way.

Get a receipt from your FFL for any transfer fee, S&W will pay for that.
 
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Final results

Well after a very busy summer I am finally getting around to giving a report of how it went when I reamed the cylinders on a couple of my K22s. I have four of them but only 2 had problems of fired cases sticking in the cylinders. Oddly enough it was the oldest one, 1952, and the newest, 617-1, that needed the reaming. My 17-2 works perfectly fine with all ammo that I have tried as does the 4 screw that I have so no work was done on those. I mentioned earlier in the summer that after I reamed the stainless 617 that I was still having some problems with ejection with some brands of ammo, in my case it was anything made by RWS. While all brands dropped in easily the RWS just didn't want to eject without a fight. At that time someone mentioned that it could be the way the brass was annealed, with some brands being harder and some softer allowing for differing degrees of expansion and contraction which would determine whether the case would stick or come out easily. Well, in my not so expert opinion, I think that is exactly what the problem was. After reaming the 617 and still having the sticky cases I used a 22 bore mop loaded up with Meguiars Mag polish to polish each chamber for about 30 seconds each. After doing that I had no trouble whatsoever with extraction of any brand of ammo I have tried, whether or not the cylinder had any oil in it. The amount of oil, or lack thereof, in the cylinder seemed not to make any difference. The '52 K22 that also had problems with brass sticking exhibited the exact same scenario as the 617. I reamed first, extraction was a little better but not great, then I polished and everything worked just as it should. Both of these guns needed the exact same procedure to get the best results. So, I don't know if there may be some other reasonable explanations as to why my guns acted this way or not, but it seems to me that with both doing the exact same thing with the exact same ammo that the problem was with the ammunition as much or more than with the guns. Whatever the reason for the sticky ejection I am happy to say that I can now go out and shoot any amount of any brand of ammo and not have any problems! Thank you to all who have posted information in this thread! It certainly has helped me to enjoy my S&W K22s even more since reading it.
 
I heard from Customer Service today on the 351C I sent back about a month ago. It has been determined to be unrepairable and they will be sending me a replacement under warranty. I just have to designate a FFL to take delivery and they will send it along in a couple of weeks.

An interesting note in the email was that if there were any aftermarket items, such as grips or sights that I wanted from the old guy to let them know and they would send them to me.

It's probably still prudent to remove any of those items before sending a gun in for evaluation and repair, but it's good to know that they acknowledge that people do add items to their guns sometimes.

I'm really surprised that they are replacing the firearm. I expected that they'd ream the chambers or maybe replace the cylinder if it was some other sort of issue.

There should be no 4473 needed. Even though it'll have a different serial number. It's just a grab n go. I had a ruger that was replaced by the factory. No paperwork, nothing.
 
Sorry I never came back and posted that I decided against reaming the aluminum cylinder and sent the reamer on to Acorn, so if anyone else needs it he's the man to contact - unless he's already sent it on to the next guy. :)
 
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Acorn? Where is the reamer? I picked up a K22 that needs some attention, so now there are a couple of us who need to use it...
 
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On a related note, I bought a second cylinder for my New Model Ruger Bearcat and re-chambered it to .22 Magnum. I rented the reamer from 4D. Everything went well, except that my tap handle didn't fit. If you rent from 4D, rent their handle too.
 
Finish reaming K22s, or, How To Solve Difficult Extraction In .22lr S&Ws

Whoever is Next in line feel free to PM Me, I did My 17-4 & a Colt Diamondback & ready to send it to the next person in line
 
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