Need Your Help with First Cleaning

[giants1]

Yesterday, I picked up my first AR-15, a S&W MP15 Sport ii, new in box from an LGS.

I didn't shoot it, but rather started off with cleaning it.

I had trouble cleaning the bore and need your advice.

I noticed fouling on the shell deflector, but not the dust cover, so that told me that it was test-fired at the factory.

However, my newbie eyes looked into the bore from the muzzl end and it *looked* clean. Out of abundance of caution and to get experience with cleaning the bore, I cleaned it anyway.

I used a new-in-box Hoppe Bore Snake, passing it through three times with Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber (C8-9 alkane and hexane) on the section after the black cord and before the bristles. Again, the barrel bore*looked* clean before I started, as did the Bore Snake. Just to be sure, I ran a patch wet with the Birchwood Casey and had about half of it filled with fouling. I ran about 5 more, with the the patches getting down to about 20% dirty. I ran the Bore Snake twice more with Birchwood Casey cleaner on the section in front of the brass. I had to run about 5 more patches until the fouling didn't show up on the patches.

Am I doing something wrong, or do these guns need THAT much cleaning? In other words, is there a better sequence and cleaning method?

Should I spray Birchwood Casey on the part of the Bore Snake AFTER the bristles?

I have a CMMG .22LR conversion, but am afraid to shoot .22LR due to spending more than the hour I spent cleaning this new barrel. Thoughts?

Do I need to clean the chamber, which seems really tight? If so, what tools would I use?

Can I use brake cleaner (non-chlorinated) on the barrel, being careful to keep it away from paint and plastic, though non-chlorinated is not supposed to affect plastic.

How often should I wash the bore brush?

Also, do I need to do any cleaning now, or after shooting, inside the lower's housing where the trigger group is?

Thanks

 

[TX-Dennis]

Here's a pretty good guide to cleaning your AR. I don't do everything he recommends every time I clean, but it wouldn't hurt. I do not clean the buffer very often nor do I remove the extractor every time I clean the bolt, but, again, it would not hurt anything to do so.

AR-15 Cleaning and Maintenance [Ultimate Guide] - Pew Pew Tactical

 

[444 Magnum]

I keep it simple and inexpensive. CLP for cleaner and lube. Toothbrush and Q-tips for chamber and small parts. Brass brush to punch bore and loosen any fouling. Mop or snake with some CLP applied for the barrel. When putting AR back together, I add a FEW drops of 30 weight motor oil to the bolt and extractor (I'm sure I'll get some comments about that). It doesn't need to be spotless after each cleaning, especially if you shoot it regularly.

 

[jbtrucker]

I learned from Gunblue490 and sooch00 on You Tube. I clean old school low odor mineral spirits and CLP if rifle going to put up awhile. If shooting soon just wipe off the BCG with CLP and use bore snake.

 

[kbm6893]

Gun scrubber isn’t a bore solvent. It’s a degreaser. I send a wet patch soaked in Hoppes 9 down the bore and let it soak while I use Hoppes on everything else. Pick up some chamber starts to clean the lugs in the chamber. They fit on the end of a cleaning rod and fit into the lugs to get them cleaned out. A soaked patch in the upper. Then several passes down the barrel with a Hoppes 9 soaked bore brush, followed by a couple of solvent soaked patches down the bore to clean it out, followed by dry patches. Light lube where needed and done.

 

[BigAL2021]

Yesterday, I picked up my first AR-15, a S&W MP15 Sport ii, new in box from an LGS.

I didn't shoot it, but rather started off with cleaning it.

I had trouble cleaning the bore and need your advice.

I noticed fouling on the shell deflector, but not the dust cover, so that told me that it was test-fired at the factory.

Not having seen what you were getting in person, This sure sounds like that firearm had been shot a lot more than a factory testing.


As for me I use at the moment

Chemicals:

Hoppes 9 solvent for the bore, Clenzoil Field & Range Aerosol Foaming Spray, Breakthrough Battle Born Oil, Clenzoil needle oiler

Hardware:
A bore snake and Rod, Bore and chamber brush, Clenzoil Bore Stix (it's a presoaked Q-tip), a silicone cloth.

 

[giants1]

Thanks...

Not having seen what you were getting in person, This sure sounds like that firearm had been shot a lot more than a factory testing.


As for me I use at the moment

Chemicals:

Hoppes 9 solvent for the bore, Clenzoil Field & Range Aerosol Foaming Spray, Breakthrough Battle Born Oil, Clenzoil needle oiler

Hardware:
A bore snake and Rod, Bore and chamber brush, Clenzoil Bore Stix (it's a presoaked Q-tip), a silicone cloth.

How many rounds do you shoot in between cleaning? What sort of ammo do you shoot? And how many passes of the bore snake do you typically do?

Thanks!

 

[kbm6893]

I have bore snakes for every caliber I own, but I don’t consider them capable of properly cleaning a barrel. They’re good for a swipe at the range before you leave and for a final pass or two after a bore brush and patches.

 

[giants1]

Thanks...

Not having seen what you were getting in person, This sure sounds like that firearm had been shot a lot more than a factory testing...



I just messaged S&W Customer Support mentioning the fouling and asking them how many test rounds they fired and what type of ammo they used on this gun before shipping it.

 

[BigAL2021]

How many rounds do you shoot in between cleaning?

500-600 I might could wait a little longer, It's running pretty clean. But I get in the mood to clean so..

What sort of ammo do you shoot?

OMPC 5.56 (oman munition production company)
PMC XTAC 5.56 (Green Tip)
Winchester M193 5.56
Australian Outback Sierra Blitzking .223
American Eagle .223
PMC Bronze .223


Depends on the current price. Right now I doing the Winchesters cause I got a bulk box.

And how many passes of the bore snake do you typically do?

I run the rod with Hoppes on a mop down it to wet it and let it soak first.
I also hit the chamber with a chamber brush.
Then I put some CLP on the snake (Maybe give a little squirt down the bore also) then make 2-3 passes with it.


(Note: If I think I need too, I'll run a bore brush on a rod down it. The one on a snake is ok, But I don't think their as snug as one you use on a rod that might depend on brand though)

I check it then with a patch on the rod to see if I did okay or need to follow up.


Finish off I put a little tiny drop of oil on a patch and run it down the bore.

I also clean the flash hider

 

[Nohi1566]

I will tag along and ask a question. In the barrel extension just past the lugs(closer to bore) there is a crevice where it looks like rust colored foul or rust itself has found . I don’t have rust on any parts of the gun except possible there. Hard to reach to clean. How do we tell if it’s rust or not?

 

[giants1]

Hmmm.....

I will tag along and ask a question. In the barrel extension just past the lugs(closer to bore) there is a crevice where it looks like rust colored foul or rust itself has found . I don’t have rust on any parts of the gun except possible there. Hard to reach to clean. How do we tell if it’s rust or not?

Good question. You might want to create your own thread so that more members are likely to see it and my thread won't get hijacked. Another idea would be to post photos.

 

[bulletslap]

My thoughts on cleaning .22 LR autos, the barrel rarely needs cleaning, maybe every 1,000 rounds or more. Everything else including the chamber needs frequent cleaning as .22 LR ammo leaves crud everywhere except the bore. Yes I know that this is at odds with itself, but this is my experience.

I also will run a dry patch down the bore (and cylinder bores) of a firearm that has been stored for a while as who knows what has collected in the bore while in storage. My late uncle kept an old .22 bolt gun in his garage for shooting rodents and what not. He grabbed pit one day to terminate a large wood rat and afterwards noticed a bulge at the muzzle of the old piece. Something like a mason bee or similar most likely plugged up the end of the barrel.

 

[giants1]

Thanks...

My thoughts on cleaning .22 LR autos, the barrel rarely needs cleaning, maybe every 1,000 rounds or more. Everything else including the chamber needs frequent cleaning as .22 LR ammo leaves crud everywhere except the bore. Yes I know that this is at odds with itself, but this is my experience.

I also will run a dry patch down the bore (and cylinder bores) of a firearm that has been stored for a while as who knows what has collected in the bore while in storage. My late uncle keep an old .22 bolt gun in his garage for shooting rodents and what not. He grab it one day to terminate a large wood rat and afterwards noticed a bulge at the muzzle of the old piece. Something like a mason bee or similar most likely plugged up the end of the barrel.

Thanks.

What brand/model of ammo are you using that you can get away with cleaning the barrel only every 1,000 rounds?

Are you using a CMMG .22LR conversion kit? If so, how do you like it?

 

[bulletslap]

I use a military surplus conversion insert, a M-261 if I recall correctly. I use CCI Mini Mags generally.

 

[Ruger Nut]

The military will teach you how to clean your weapon.

 

[rockquarry]

How many rounds do you shoot in between cleaning? What sort of ammo do you shoot? And how many passes of the bore snake do you typically do?

Thanks!

Just a few suggestions as a lot of the routine is already covered here. Get a good cleaning rod like a coated Dewey rod if you really have an interest in cleaning your bore. A bore snake is not good equipment. A CLP-type cleaner will work, but it's a compromise at best. Hoppes #9 or Ed's Red followed by a copper or carbon remover (when necessary and it will be necessary, though maybe not every cleaning). I like Wipe Out/ Patch Out for copper removal and the same company's carbon remover (can't think of the name) but there are others, too.

Get a bore guide, too. Not essential, but they are useful and far beyond a gadget. Very handy for cleaning.

 

[giants1]

Thanks...

...A bore snake is not good equipment. A CLP-type cleaner will work, but it's a compromise at best...Get a bore guide, too. Not essential, but they are useful and far beyond a gadget. Very handy for cleaning.

Thanks.

Can you recommend a brand of Dewey-coated rod?

What's wrong with the bore snake and CLP-type cleaner?

Can you recommend a brand/model of bore guide?

Thanks

 

[Nevada Ed]

Maybe I am a old fashioned Navy GM but I like a good old cleaning rod with jags and the correct size patches for all my weapons from .22 to .357.

I still have a brand new "Snake" in a container sitting on a shelf, 14" away from me as I type.

Hoppies #9, kroil, and some Beretta oil is all that I use, unless going after "Copper" or "Lead" fowling in my revolvers.

Copper bore brushes are cheap......... buy 5-6 and don't be afraid to use them. Let old #9 sit and do it's thing for 30 minutes in the barrel, while you clean every thing else.

Now start cleaning the barrel.
A old tooth brush and Q-tips are great for those tight spots and don't toss
those Olive, martini tooth picks away, or floss & string.

 

[rockquarry]

Thanks.

Can you recommend a brand of Dewey-coated rod?

What's wrong with the bore snake and CLP-type cleaner?

Can you recommend a brand/model of bore guide?

Thanks

Dewey is the brand. Check Brownells

A bore snake is cheap and flimsy and not designed for a thorough cleaning. It's probably at it's best for emergency field use. Get a good rod and you'll see the difference in cleaning effectiveness.

As already mentioned, a CLP-type cleaner is a "compromise" cleaner, but will work. CLP is probably better as a lube and/or preservative. However, a pure solvent works better followed by a copper and carbon cleaner if needed.

Bore guide - I use a JP Enterprises, but others may work as well. Again, look at Brownells