M1a for Self-Defense?

[rogerwnuss]

True enough. It is a hefty tool.

Especially since it has that thing in the back that goes up........ Of course, you'd want that down for applying attitude adjustment...

 

[erikpolcrack]

Have 2 now, owned several over the years, shot many more, and I have never seen that.

What kind of accuracy out of the box are you seeing?

In the late 80's I took my brand new, never-fired, standard M1a to a CMP-qualifying match a local gun club was sponsoring. I took second to a former member of the Sixth Army rifle team and shot the best target of the day.

 

[jjrr]

To just destroy a target there is probably nothing better than the M1A available in the civilian market. The M1 Garland and the M14 are the two US service rifles that have no equal if you want to destroy something.

 

[smoothshooter]

.308/.30-06 bad idea for many reasons.
You need more than one gun.
Ruger 10/22 with return to zero detachable scope should be one or both of them. Use it with standard velocity ammo that does not have the ballistic " crack " that will give your position away.
Keeping a low-profile and not drawing unnecessary attention to yourself is a must.
Be the " Gray Man " that blends in with crowds and goes unnoticed. Folding stocks on the 10/22's will make them easier to hide under a loose fitting jacket or in a pack.
Having a spare gun or two and more magazines and ammo stashed somewhere will be handy if you are forced to surrender the one you have on you at a checkpoint of some kind.

 

[smoothshooter]

A big and expensive-looking gun can get you killed because someone wants that big and expensive-looking gun.
An old .22 or shotgun, not so much.
A short bolt action .22 like the CZ Scout would be very low profile and very useful.
Remember, you are not going to be engaging in long drawn out gun battles with multiple adversaries if you want to live or avoid being wounded.
In an urban environment a 50 yard shot would be a long one.
Never underestimate the power and effectiveness of a few well-directed .22 LR bullets.

 

[majick47]

For home defense in any average size home a shotgun with a 18-20" barrel and buckshot would be a more appropriate practical and cost effective choice. As Grayman50 recommended a former LE shotgun is easy to come by at a fair price. Being the S&W forum how about I recommend a police model S&W M-3000. Said to be as good if not better than a vintage Remington 870.

 

[AJ]

This is my main house shotgun if needed. I taught a USMC Combat Shotgun Course with it.

 

[Whackywheels]

I'm planning ahead for future gun purchases and am interested in an M1a, both as a momento of my father's service during WW-II (albeit an M1 Garand in 30.06) and for self-defense. Plus, they just look cool! I also don't have a main battle rifle.

However, I'm struggling with the M1a for self-defense and wanted your thoughts.

I'm an urban dweller with houses on either side and no plans to bug out to rural areas in an SHTF scenario (but we all know what they say about plans).

I've seen some YouTube videos and read SHTF posts about the benefits of having an M1a in .308, but pretty much it seems only for hunting and sniping/counter-sniping at a distance. I understand that those cartridges are REALLY loud indoors, particularly when muzzle breaks are installed, as is the case with Springfield Armory M1a sold in California, where I live. That and over-penetration of the .308 from what I understand makes the M1a/.308 not ideal for home defense.

As to self-defense at a distance, say counter-sniping (which the LGS suggested), I'm thinking that hiding well and/or getting out of the situation would be the better strategy vs. counter-sniping, or just using a scoped AR-15. I realize that there's only so much one can do, preparing for more likely scenarios is better, and that it's impossible to prepare for every scenario; I'm thinking that counter-sniping would be highly unlikely, the 1990s Balkans civil war notwithstanding.

What are your thoughts?

As an M1A and M1 Garand owner go with a more modern rifle like the Remington 700 or a M14 clone. We are talking about 80 year old guns where the metal isn't as good as it once was and war necessitated ammo that was loaded below spec.

If you do buy one I would recommend getting a hand loader and producing your own reduced load non corrosive ammo to ensure the integrity of the gun. sure some might say it'l fire modern 308 fine... up until it bananas a barrel, bends a rod or worst case fails in the chamber like a reenactment of Kentucky ballistics.

Me personally, i got a 280$ Savage 308 II and added a decent scope and a really decent mount. I replaced that **** stock that causes the gun to lose 0 with a more reliable stock that seats the barrel well. I also own a few 5.56 AR's, a blackout AR, AK and PS90 so if things hit the fan in city I have not just a firearm for myself but for my friends too

 

[AJ]

As an M1A and M1 Garand owner go with a more modern rifle like the Remington 700 or a M14 clone. We are talking about 80 year old guns where the metal isn't as good as it once was and war necessitated ammo that was loaded below spec.

If you do buy one I would recommend getting a hand loader and producing your own reduced load non corrosive ammo to ensure the integrity of the gun. sure some might say it'l fire modern 308 fine... up until it bananas a barrel, bends a rod or worst case fails in the chamber like a reenactment of Kentucky ballistics.

Me personally, i got a 280$ Savage 308 II and added a decent scope and a really decent mount. I replaced that **** stock that causes the gun to lose 0 with a more reliable stock that seats the barrel well. I also own a few 5.56 AR's, a blackout AR, AK and PS90 so if things hit the fan in city I have not just a firearm for myself but for my friends too

The old military rifles were well made. I have never seen a military rifle let go using the proper factory ammo. All the guns that I have seen that were screwed up were after shooting reloaded ammo. My Garand was made in July 1944 and holds a two inch group at 100 yards, would probably do better if I tailored some ammo for it. The group below was shot from a Swedish CG-63, a Swedish target rifle with iron sights. The receiver is dated 1902. Will your rifles do that well?

 

[Whackywheels]

The old military rifles were well made. I have never seen a military rifle let go using the proper factory ammo. All the guns that I have seen that were screwed up were after shooting reloaded ammo. My Garand was made in July 1944 and holds a two inch group at 100 yards, would probably do better if I tailored some ammo for it. The group below was shot from a Swedish CG-63, a Swedish target rifle with iron sights. The receiver is dated 1902. Will your rifles do that well?

Do you fire brand new ammo or older surplus? the Surp ammo is fine to shoot, I'm talking about firing new ammo. The modern smokeless powder just burns hotter than it used to and the older techniques for how the barrels were made just don't hold well to modern ammo chamber pressure. Personally I want my M1's to be handed down to the kids so I handload to ensure the rounds don't exceed chamber pressures. I also don't use surplus because I don't feel like dealing with the corrosive ammo every time I take it to the range. I also check headspace when I'm doing a deep clean/safety check as the older WW era M1's have an issue with headspace wear/throat erosion.

I will agree that an improperly reloaded round with improperly seated/budging primer will cause an out of battery explosion from the floating firing pin. It's far less likely if you know what you are doing that of an over-pressure round.

As I said before some people have the opinion that modern ammo is fine and I have my opinion. At the end of the day its your firearm so don't be surprised when you fire that 245th bullet that makes the chamber go crack from a 80+ year old gun.

I ended up getting a March 1943 Springfield. Original barrel, Re-armored once in May 1964. RWA Bolt is the only part that isn't matching but the WWII M1's it was common for them to change out parts in the field to make them more reliable.

 

[ISCS Yoda]

With out reading 80 plus responses I'll wager the overall consensus is that .308/7.62 NATO is way too much cartridge for an urban home defense weapon and that an M1A is way too large a rifle to be toting around the house. I bet that sums it up.

For the record, an M1A was my go to "battle rifle" for many years. It's gone but not forgotten.

But there won't be sniping and counter sniping in the urban environment unless we have a civil war. Otherwise, the sole concern is criminals, and shotguns and short rifles are the choice, and handguns, of course.

But if you want an M1A because you like it, sure, go ahead, they're fun!

 

[Whackywheels]

With out reading 80 plus responses I'll wager the overall consensus is that .308/7.62 NATO is way too much cartridge for an urban home defense weapon and that an M1A is way too large a rifle to be toting around the house. I bet that sums it up.

For the record, an M1A was my go to "battle rifle" for many years. It's gone but not forgotten.

But there won't be sniping and counter sniping in the urban environment unless we have a civil war. Otherwise, the sole concern is criminals, and shotguns and short rifles are the choice, and handguns, of course.

But if you want an M1A because you like it, sure, go ahead, they're fun!

I have a Saiga 12 w/ 20rd drum For "Home Defense"

 

[AJ]

Do you fire brand new ammo or older surplus? the Surp ammo is fine to shoot, I'm talking about firing new ammo. The modern smokeless powder just burns hotter than it used to and the older techniques for how the barrels were made just don't hold well to modern ammo chamber pressure. Personally I want my M1's to be handed down to the kids so I handload to ensure the rounds don't exceed chamber pressures. I also don't use surplus because I don't feel like dealing with the corrosive ammo every time I take it to the range. I also check headspace when I'm doing a deep clean/safety check as the older WW era M1's have an issue with headspace wear/throat erosion.

I will agree that an improperly reloaded round with improperly seated/budging primer will cause an out of battery explosion from the floating firing pin. It's far less likely if you know what you are doing that of an over-pressure round.

As I said before some people have the opinion that modern ammo is fine and I have my opinion. At the end of the day its your firearm so don't be surprised when you fire that 245th bullet that makes the chamber go crack from a 80+ year old gun.

I ended up getting a March 1943 Springfield. Original barrel, Re-armored once in May 1964. RWA Bolt is the only part that isn't matching but the WWII M1's it was common for them to change out parts in the field to make them more reliable.

I shoot U.S & Danish surplus ammo and new manufactured ammo that falls into the specs for the M1 Garand. What is an RWA bolt never heard of the manufacturer. Springfield, Winchester, H&R, and International Harvester, I have heard of .....is it an aftermarket?

 

[Whackywheels]

I shoot U.S & Danish surplus ammo and new manufactured ammo that falls into the specs for the M1 Garand. What is an RWA bolt never heard of the manufacturer. Springfield, Winchester, H&R, and International Harvester, I have heard of .....is it an aftermarket?

I meant WRA. It was a typo.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

WHEN YOU REALLY NEED IT............Anything on hand that goes bang is a good choice.