Hand for 44 HE 2nd model?

[Mbrgr1]

Hello all, any good source for a wide replacement hand? I have one that "almost" locks up in single action.


Thanks

 

[Doug M.]

Do not rely on this, because I could be really wrong, but I have seen some assert that a lot of N frame guts work on almost any N frame of almost any age.

 

[fleabus101]

Somewhere I have some hands..I'll PM you if I turn
them up After looking around tomorrow. I send one in the mail.. Is your 2 or 3 pin type?
Randy..

 

[tennexplorer]

Finding a hand is really going to depend on when your Second Model was made. About the same time that the Model 1926 was introduced and the ejector rod ends went from mushroom shape to barrel shape, S&W introduced a hammer block in the N-frames. It is pinned in place in the sideplate and is pushed out of the way by a ramp like appendage on the rear of the hand as the hand moves up to turn the cylinder.

That type of hand was only made for about 14 years (about late 1926 - 1940) and is very, very rare as a replacement part. If your Second Model does not have that style hand, then a modern hand can be fitted.

A good indication that a modern hand can be fitted is that the revolver has the mushroom ejector rod head. To be sure you have to take the sideplate off, because there are exceptions, such as the 1937 Brazilians which have the mushroom head and the new-style ramped hand for the hammer block.

You can fit a modern hand into a revolver that was designed for the ramped hand, but you have to remove the hammer block. If the hammer block is still in the gun and a modern hand is installed, it will cycle but the revolver will not fire. It is pinned into the sideplate and is intended to be there for good.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

Good luck in your search.

 

[fleabus101]

Very good point about the ramped hand feature..
my early 1932 38 Outdoorsman has the ramped
hand feature w the sideplate safety..
Very good information !
Best Randy..

 

[Mbrgr1]

Finding a hand is really going to depend on when your Second Model was made. About the same time that the Model 1926 was introduced and the ejector rod ends went from mushroom shape to barrel shape, S&W introduced a hammer block in the N-frames. It is pinned in place in the sideplate and is pushed out of the way by a ramp like appendage on the rear of the hand as the hand moves up to turn the cylinder.

That type of hand was only made for about 14 years (about late 1926 - 1940) and is very, very rare as a replacement part. If your Second Model does not have that style hand, then a modern hand can be fitted.

A good indication that a modern hand can be fitted is that the revolver has the mushroom ejector rod head. To be sure you have to take the sideplate off, because there are exceptions, such as the 1937 Brazilians which have the mushroom head and the new-style ramped hand for the hammer block.

You can fit a modern hand into a revolver that was designed for the ramped hand, but you have to remove the hammer block. If the hammer block is still in the gun and a modern hand is installed, it will cycle but the revolver will not fire. It is pinned into the sideplate and is intended to be there for good.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

Good luck in your search.

Thanks, it shipped in Jan 1924, it does not have the sideplate hammer block.


The hand measures 0.94 wide at the business end, it does not look worn.


Someone suggested gently peening the ratchet teeth, something I have never tried.


Thanks for all the advice!

 

[Mbrgr1]

Somewhere I have some hands..I'll PM you if I turn
them up After looking around tomorrow. I send one in the mail.. Is your 2 or 3 pin type?
Randy..

Thanks, here is a pic, I mentioned it is 0.94 wide, if you turn up a wider one, I'd be happy to give it a try.

 

[Protocall_Design]

Oftentimes, when you need just a little bit more width, you can gently bend the hand towards the center pin and fix the problem.

With the hammer out of the gun, hand installed on the hammer, bend the hand towards the hammer a small amount. The pivot pin at the bottom of the hand is bendable. Replace the assembly in the gun and see how it works.

Sometimes it takes a few tries to get it just right. If slightly over bent, leave the assembly in the gun and tap on the bottom of the hand with a small hammer to unbend the pin a bit. All this takes some finesse. Work in very small increments. Sometimes you may need to file the hand window a thou or 2 wider towards the center pin to allow the hand to get over far enough.

When you cycle the action, the bent hand will push up to lock the cylinder, then go out (to the right) around the ratchet and on up. It's a good idea to stone or polish the sharp top inside edge of the hand to a small angle or radius to minimize further wear to the ratchets.

 

[Mbrgr1]

Well......

I was able to peen the ratchet a tiny amount and that brought it back into positive lockup!


Thanks again for all the suggestions...