Will an old S&W 38 special revolver do for home defense?

[Hello86]

I’m not an expert like some here, but if you have an older revolver, +P ammo could damage it.

Thanks for the reply. So if I get hold of, say, a S&W model 15 or 67, made in the 1960-1970s or so, I shouldn't use +p ammo, but regular standard ammo only?

Standard ammo is plenty adequate.

I guess then it doesn't matter much if I can't use +p, as normal standard ammo will do just fine?

 

[Hello86]

Older revolver may be damaged by extended use of .38 Special +P. The same as .38 Super will damage a .38 ACP pistol.

How old? Which models are they?

 

[ralph7]

Older revolver may be damaged by extended use of .38 Special +P. The same as .38 Super will damage a .38 ACP pistol.

Accelerate wear as opposed to target loads? Perhaps.
Actual damage? No.
Todays +P is pretty much in the same league as older ammunition was before it got watered down.

.38 super vs ACP is a different story.

 

[merl67]

My wifes door greeter is a Smith & Wesson 38spl from around 1950 I assure you in her hands it is enough, but as others have said a 12 shotgun would work too, and might be a better choice in certain situations.

 

[AJ]

Accelerate wear as opposed to target loads? Perhaps.
Actual damage? No.
Todays +P is pretty much in the same league as older ammunition was before it got watered down.

.38 super vs ACP is a different story.

Why beat up an older gun whose metal is not designed to handle continuous usage of .38 Special +P ammo? For self defense it probably will be OK. When were there changes to the steel, only the manufacturers know. How much damage can be caused? Only magnafluxing can tell. Saw several hundred M1911's that were destroyed due to cracks in the frames that were discovered by magnafluxing.

 

[ralph7]

Why beat up an older gun whose metal is not designed to handle continuous usage of .38 Special +P ammo? For self defense it probably will be OK. When were there changes to the steel, only the manufacturers know. How much damage can be caused? Only magnafluxing can tell. Saw several hundred M1911's that were destroyed due to cracks in the frames that were discovered by magnafluxing.

I agree, didn't say a steady diet was appropriate.
My reason for commenting was the newbies that equate +P to a gross overload that will blow the gun like a hand grenade.

 

[Mbrgr1]

Accelerate wear as opposed to target loads? Perhaps.
Actual damage? No.
Todays +P is pretty much in the same league as older ammunition was before it got watered down.

Exactly!



+P translated means:



+ = "we added"

P = "the powder we took out"


So, shoot away!

 

[BSA1]

My 1947 M&P loaded with 158gr round nosed lead rests handy in my bedside drawer. I sleep well knowing it's there.

Now that you have read this thread you will sleep more soundly with it loaded with JHP ammunition. The nickname for the 158 gr. RNL was “The Widowmaker” by cops due to it’s lack of stopping power. The Widowmaker referred to the user, not the criminal.

 

[somorris]

I agree, didn't say a steady diet was appropriate.
My reason for commenting was the newbies that equate +P to a gross overload that will blow the gun like a hand grenade.

That wasn’t exactly what I was referring to. Just that the higher pressures with +P can damage older guns. Better (in my mind) to use standard pressure ammo and not worry about it.

 

[delcrossv]

Unless you're shooting something from the turn of the last century, shooting +p 38 spl won't damage anything- except maybe your wrist.

 

[OLDSTER]

Now that you have read this thread you will sleep more soundly with it loaded with JHP ammunition. The nickname for the 158 gr. RNL was “The Widowmaker” by cops due to it’s lack of stopping power. The Widowmaker referred to the user, not the criminal.

I have not read the thread, don't need to; only the subject line. But thanks for your concern.

 

[AJ]

Unless you're shooting something from the turn of the last century, shooting +p 38 spl won't damage anything- except maybe your wrist.

Some folks are using Great Grandpa's handgun. Since guns are not dated how are they to know?

The oldest revolver that I shoot is a Colt Model 1909 U.S. Army in .45 Colt. I try to keep the loads on the lighter side. Yes, it was made in 1909.

 

[pasound]

In any K-frame .38 made since 1940, +P is not going to bother it. Just don't use it for target practice. Not that it will wear it out, it's just tiring on the hands after a box of 50. I keep six Remington 158gr +P LSWCHP in my 1950 M&P .38, when it stays by my desk, or in my nightstand. Speedloader has six Hornady non+P 125gr XTP, just in case. 60-15 within reach of the front door has the same Remington and the same backup Hornady speedloader - five each.

 

[majick47]

For a home defense handgun it doesn't get any better than a S&W K frame 38 special revolver, it was the police/security standard issue for eight decades. As for ammo I'm in the camp of standard pressure or less, not 38+P, when used in an apartment/condo/home setting. With few exceptions the OP will be adequately armed to deal with any life-threatening situation he might face. Might consider having a second 38 special revolver as a backup loaded with the same ammo, better known as a New York reload.

 

[johngalt]

If you are proficient, a .38 special is a fine choice.

SAAMI max pressure for .38 special is 17000 psi. .38 +P is 20000 psi. Not much difference.

 

[AJ]

If you are proficient, a .38 special is a fine choice.

SAAMI max pressure for .38 special is 17000 psi. .38 +P is 20000 psi. Not much difference.

You are right, not much difference in the pressures. It is the wear and tear on the older metals. Like I stated the M1911's in the military were wearing out from usage and metal fatigue.......keep in mind these were military pistols always shooting 230 grain Hardball to Government spec's. If you are willing to pay for a magnaflux of the handguns and it passes then shoot all the +P you want. If you do not want the test done, then stay with standard velocity .38 Special. Have seen chunks missing out of guns and it s not a pretty sight. Especially if it is a prized possession (like Grandpa's gun).

 

[Muley Gil]

Thanks for the reply. So if I get hold of, say, a S&W model 15 or 67, made in the 1960-1970s or so, I shouldn't use +p ammo, but regular standard ammo only?



I guess then it doesn't matter much if I can't use +p, as normal standard ammo will do just fine?

As stated elsewhere, any .38 special S&W, in good condition, built from 1950 on will be fine with .38 +P ammo. When first introduced, the +P ammo WAS more powerful than standard .38 special.

The old round nose lead 158 grain load was a 50% stopper at best. Much better is the FBI load, a 158 grain hollow point lead semi-wadcutter +P.

More important than the ammo is bullet placement. You want to be able to accurate place 2-3 rounds in a group the size of a paper plate. The maximum distance that you can do this with-in 2-3 seconds should be YOUR maximum distance. This 10" plate is about the size of a man's vitals.

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE!

 

[SWFan27]

Yes. A 38 Special will work just fine for home defense. They have been filling coffins for over a hundred years. More people are killed by 22's than any other caliber. As I get older I can see myself keeping my 357 Magnums loaded good quality 38 Special hollow points. Plenty of options out there, but Buffalo Bore makes some really nice 38 Special rounds. Including their version of the old FBI load.

 

[SWFan27]

Thanks, sound good.

But am I missing a point regarding the magnum 357? If 38 special is more than adequate for home defense, why do civilians use 357 magnum, despite its disadvantages?

Because a 357 Magnum has better "stopping power" due to being a more powerful round. A 38 Special should still be more than enough to protect you and your family in your average home defense situation.

Other posters have already mentioned some of the possible downsides of using a 357 Mag indoors and at night when criminals are usually most active. Some ammo makers sell 357 Mag loads using low flash powder, and they make them for 38 Special as well, knowing these rounds are desinged for home defense. Your ears will be ringing if you shot either caliber indoors. But a 357 Mag will have your ears feeling like they just sat front row at a Ted Nugent show. Whenever I bring my 357 Mags to the range I always get people asking me what I am shooting. The noise gets people's attention for sure.

Here are some YouTube videos which show just how effective a good 357 Magnum load can be, plus a video of some great and reasonably priced Remington 38 Special ammo that I have a lot of trust in. If you hit your meth crazed violent attacker center mass, one shot with a good 357Mag round should end the threat. A 38 Special might drop them with one shot also, especially with the right load. I just bought some Remington 38 Special SJHP High Terminal Performance ammo for 60 cents a round on Gunbroker.com from a top seller. Remington has them available online for $21.99 for a box of 20, and I just bought myself a few boxes for $11.99.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8WNQxIjutc&t=262s[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nV8_kAQWwBU&t=914s[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VkX5SVdTE9M&t=156s[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODgX18iK_pA&t=141s[/ame]

 

[hkcavalier]

The answer is yes. Anything but FMJ and LRN will do at house distances, but in a K frame or better I'd be inclined to try the Federal 147gr Hydra-Shok load developed back when a lot of LEOs depended on their ammo/gun combo but were restricted to .38 Special. A more modern load I'd bet my life on is the Underwood 100gr Xtreme Defense which really is a baby .357.