Basically what I use on my samurai sword which is made from carbon steel, not stainless and not blued, just highly polished. Works great.
Home made wipe down cloth?
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Basically what I use on my samurai sword which is made from carbon steel, not stainless and not blued, just highly polished. Works great.
crankyoldlady
Member
Soft, 100% cotton flannel, lightly treated with any quality oil.
olskool
Member
i use a sham wow cloth. have been for years, it works like no other,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
I guess I have tried everything in the last 50 years of gun care. Waxes, sprays, gun oil, etc. to find that after storage, I have a hard time feeling anything left on the surface of my guns. Oil will evaporate over time, and depending on the viscocity, it might last longer or shorter. I gave up on most aerosol spray lubes because of two reasons. First, they stink so bad that it even bothers me to use them. Second, I look at the newspaper used to lay out my gun on to spray and it is so dry that I wonder if anything is left after a day?? Microcrystalline wax seems good, but I cannot tell if it is there or not, plus many say it is the least durable protection if the gun us used regularly. It takes time to apply and to buff out. For me there are much faster and better options.
I now have two products that last for me. First, I started making my own formula a few years ago. Taking a small bottle of high performance synthetic gun oil, a quart of Mobil 1 30W oil and a can of STP. The mixture is thick, but pourable. The viscosity is high enough that it does not evaporate and has little odor. Wipe it on and done plus the mixture lasts for years.
Second option for longer term storage is Rig Grease. It NEVER evaporates, protects your guns for years even with some handling. Super easy to apply with the Rig Rag, which is sheepskin. Once you work the grease into the rag, you can wipe down a dozen guns without reapplying. I have pulled guns from the back of my safe that were there for literally years and the surface still has an oily film. I never worry about rust any more after 15 years of using both products, I will not go back to the sprays or waxes.
I now have two products that last for me. First, I started making my own formula a few years ago. Taking a small bottle of high performance synthetic gun oil, a quart of Mobil 1 30W oil and a can of STP. The mixture is thick, but pourable. The viscosity is high enough that it does not evaporate and has little odor. Wipe it on and done plus the mixture lasts for years.
Second option for longer term storage is Rig Grease. It NEVER evaporates, protects your guns for years even with some handling. Super easy to apply with the Rig Rag, which is sheepskin. Once you work the grease into the rag, you can wipe down a dozen guns without reapplying. I have pulled guns from the back of my safe that were there for literally years and the surface still has an oily film. I never worry about rust any more after 15 years of using both products, I will not go back to the sprays or waxes.
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gwpercle
Member
I like old well worn 100% cotton wash cloth ... they are soft and absorbent and fit in a zip lock bag .
What you spray / treat them with realy isn't that important ...
any Gun Treatment , CLP , Gun Oil and or a combination will do just fine . 3-in-1 oil , Synthetic Two Stroke Oil ... I've even applied drops of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) on the cloth and given it a spray shot of WD40 ... you are just wipeing the gun down ... even Pure Plain Mineral Oil will be OK !
Gary
What you spray / treat them with realy isn't that important ...
any Gun Treatment , CLP , Gun Oil and or a combination will do just fine . 3-in-1 oil , Synthetic Two Stroke Oil ... I've even applied drops of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) on the cloth and given it a spray shot of WD40 ... you are just wipeing the gun down ... even Pure Plain Mineral Oil will be OK !
Gary
Pisgah
Member
For wipedowns, I use a 10" x 10" piece of fleece fabric (like jackets are made from) with BreakFree CLP and keep it in a plastic screw top jar. Holds the oil well yet you can apply a thin film or press down for more coverage.
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I guess I have tried everything in the last 50 years of gun care. Waxes, sprays, gun oil, etc. to find that after storage, I have a hard time feeling anything left on the surface of my guns. Oil will evaporate over time, and depending on the viscocity, it might last longer or shorter. I gave up on most aerosol spray lubes because of two reasons. First, they stink so bad that it even bothers me to use them. Second, I look at the newspaper used to lay out my gun on to spray and it is so dry that I wonder if anything is left after a day?? Microcrystalline wax seems good, but I cannot tell if it is there or not, plus many say it is the least durable protection if the gun us used regularly. It takes time to apply and to buff out. For me there are much faster and better options.
I now have two products that last for me. First, I started making my own formula a few years ago. Taking a small bottle of high performance synthetic gun oil, a quart of Mobil 1 30W oil and a can of STP. The mixture is thick, but pourable. The viscosity is high enough that it does not evaporate and has little odor. Wipe it on and done plus the mixture lasts for years.
Second option for longer term storage is Rig Grease. It NEVER evaporates, protects your guns for years even with some handling. Super easy to apply with the Rig Rag, which is sheepskin. Once you work the grease into the rag, you can wipe down a dozen guns without reapplying. I have pulled guns from the back of my safe that were there for literally years and the surface still has an oily film. I never worry about rust any more after 15 years of using both products, I will not go back to the sprays or waxes.
Glowe,
For the absolute best overall rust and moisture damage protection I could not agree with you more! I have used RIG Universal Grease for 50 years with stellar results and that has been my product of choice for long term storage. I coat a firearm both inside and out, with Rig Universal grease, leave the grips or stock off, then wrap in waxed paper. Then I wrap it in aluminum foil. Decades later the firearm, tool or whatever meal product is inside will be pristine when cleaned off. All that said, I don't do this for firearms that get shot routinely. Why one might ask, since it works so well - simply because it is a messy and tedious process and not necessary for guns shot on a weekly or even monthly cycle - unless stored in very severe conditions.
Many of the regular CLP's, gun oils etc. do seem like they evaporate quickly, however that does not mean they are not there and are leaving your firearms exposed to rust. For 40 years (before discontinued) I used Rig #2 Oil (not the grease - but I suspect a thinner version sold in a 4.5 oz. can or 12 oz aerosol) and shortly after applying the very thin viscosity product, it evaporates - but not really! If you looked at the gun on an angle you could see a hazy light finish on it that stayed there and does its job. In 40 years that product never failed me! I used it on every gun I own and never had any issues at all. I only wish they still made it!!! So now I've been using Breakfree CLP and it takes a little longer to evaporate but also leaves a slight protective film behind - and it does work.
I am also a car nut and use a polymer based product to protect my vehicles paint after detailing it. It works fantastically - but it "appears" to evaporate minutes after applying. Believe me - it's there and working!
I will not criticize your method because it is actually the best protection you could get!
I just feel (at least for me) for guns shot on a weekly or monthly basis it's not necessary. Oh- I have also used RIG Universal Grease on items outdoors that have withstood rain, snow, heat, cold etc and I have never ever been disappointed with the product! NOTE: When Birchwood-Casey was sold and they discontinued the Rig #2 Oil I scoffed up as many cans as I could find, but that supply is dwindling down rapidly - never to be replaced.
- using it sparingly. So while your method & results using RIG is flawless, I feel it's a little more than necessary as S.O.P. for frequently used guns. That's just my personal opinion but again, I can't say any bad things about the product because I own buckets of it myself.
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Kellogg's professional products # 110/105 silicone. It may also be labeled as pure silicone. Apply product to 6-8" square piece of real lambs wool. work product into wool, and wipe gun down. I have been doing this with this product since 1968, and never any rust.
Why lambs wool? because the wool fibers get into every nook and cranny. Even screw slots
Kelloggs Professional Products
Why lambs wool? because the wool fibers get into every nook and cranny. Even screw slots
Kelloggs Professional Products
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PLEASE DO NOT use the Costco (or ANY brand or color) Yellow Microfiber Rags on (especially blued) firearms - I just wanted to mention this as I feel it is very important.
Let me just say I buy these rags by the case of 12 pack from Costco on line. They are great for vehicle detailing, around the home for cleaning, and in the workshop in general. Love em'!
NOT so good for guns and here is why......
The microfiber rags easily pick up debris, metal shavings, and dirt and will hold them quite well. After only a use or two there are many microscopic foreign object on the MF rag that can and will scratch your prized gun. Ask me how I know....
Use 100% Cotten Flannel or an old 100% cotton T shirt. They don't hold debris nearly as well as MF and can easily be shaken out. Just thought I'd mention this.
Let me just say I buy these rags by the case of 12 pack from Costco on line. They are great for vehicle detailing, around the home for cleaning, and in the workshop in general. Love em'!
NOT so good for guns and here is why......
The microfiber rags easily pick up debris, metal shavings, and dirt and will hold them quite well. After only a use or two there are many microscopic foreign object on the MF rag that can and will scratch your prized gun. Ask me how I know....
Use 100% Cotten Flannel or an old 100% cotton T shirt. They don't hold debris nearly as well as MF and can easily be shaken out. Just thought I'd mention this.
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OLDSTER
Member
I cut old dish towels ( after they've been washed ) into 12 " squares and spray them down good with a quality gun oil. Then roll them up for a day or so. Then distribute them to pistol rugs, range bags etc. I replace them approx. once a year. Has been a good system for me for years.
SweetMK
Member
DO NOT tell that to a fire fighter,, you might get an argument,,
Certain oils when dispersed on rags can generate enough heat to combust.
That heat will have LONG ago melted through a plastic bag, prior to igniting.
The only safe way to store an oily rag (containing some random oil) is in a steel container, not plastic.
A known oil, like a purchased oil rag is safe in plastic, as long as more oil is not added.
MANY woodworkers shops have burned because of oily rags that simply ignite when left sitting,, enclosed, or otherwise.
That is why you can buy steel containers specifically for containing oily rags.
When I would have my annual fire inspection at my Mercedes repair shop the inspectors always mentioned and appreciated that we kept all of our used/oily rags in steel containers with lids. Every year they would tell me about another repair shop fire they had to fight because rags were left in open containers and they really didn't like repair shop fires because of the quantity of combustible materials in a normal shop. The best containers have spring loaded lids with foot pedals to lift the lid. Firefighters HATE oily rags.
Stu
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I store my oiled rag in an old Almond Bark Cookie Tin (actually sheet metal steel).
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Autonomous
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Linseed oil is notorious. I use paper towel for application & cleanup and burn the towel on my terms immediately after use.
As far as a wipe down cloth, a few drops of oil on a small piece of cloth or cleaning patch which is disposed of after the session.
As far as a wipe down cloth, a few drops of oil on a small piece of cloth or cleaning patch which is disposed of after the session.
I have an old wash cloth that I semi-saturated with CLP over 20 years ago and have kept it since then in an olive jar with a tight lid. I still use it for wipe-downs after cleaning.
I read an article back then on what works well for rust prevention, and CLP scored pretty high. Of course in Arizona I don't much worry about the effects of humidity, given air conditioning and all. This has worked for 20 years and I see no reason to change.
For best rust prevention on safe queens, I remove all oil from the surface of the gun and apply a coating of Ren Wax.
John
I read an article back then on what works well for rust prevention, and CLP scored pretty high. Of course in Arizona I don't much worry about the effects of humidity, given air conditioning and all. This has worked for 20 years and I see no reason to change.
For best rust prevention on safe queens, I remove all oil from the surface of the gun and apply a coating of Ren Wax.
John
BillBro
Member
There's plenty of good products on the market. I've been using G-96 for decades and have never had any problems with surface rust during long term storage. I give the firearm a light spray and wipe it down with an old T-shirt. I'll spray the rag too and leave it in a zip-lock baggie for later use. A large spray can of G-96 will last many years. It won't discolor wood, or bluing, and it smells great, too!
This. G96 has never left me wanting, and it really does smell great.
In my earlier post I mentioned rag storage, but not what I put on the rags. I use whatever gun oil I have lying around for general use on working guns, but RIG grease on any gun in extended storage. I use RenWax on guns or knives/swords on display.
Looks like I'm Trying G-96. Am a sucker for trying something new in cleaning and rust prevention. Been sticking with Hoppes no9 for the bores. Keeping a gun looking as new as possible is more of a hobby to me.
I'm surprised there aren't more fans of old-school cloth diapers, which is what I prefer.
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