So much for this leading myth

Hardness is way - way - way overated .

Fit beats hardness every time .

A small (undersized) hard cast bullet will lead the bore every time .

I size correctly and use an alloy with a BHN of 8.5 (40 to 1 lead - tin) in 38 special , 357 magnum and 41 magnum ...

It ain't the hardness that counts (in handguns) it's the fit !

Gary
 
Ive talked to all ages I think, maybe not to either extreme and nobody shoots them. Personally Ive only recently began shooting lead myself and am liking them alot. I shoot both but lead bullets are quickly becoming my prefered type, more chances to customize to each gun, hundreds of styles and weights, hardnesses and so on, and I dont even cast my own.

Thanks for the kind words ProtocallDesign, it is a great gun.

Apparently all I need to clean this revolver after 200 lead bullets is a patch. Ive shot as many as 400 through my M29 and it was almost spotless and ad far as I could tell accuracy didnt suffer a bit. Ive learned alot about choosing the right lead bullets here and on the Ruger Forum and want to thank all.

You probably know this already, but the one guaranteed way to get lead in your barrel quickly is to shoot lead after FMJ without cleaning the copper out first.
 
Yes, I have read that about the copper in the bore and its affinity for lead but often times I forget this but it hasnt been detrimental yet, at least that Ive noticed.
 
You probably know this already, but the one guaranteed way to get lead in your barrel quickly is to shoot lead after FMJ without cleaning the copper out first.

May or may not happen and it depends on lots of factors. It likely won't happen at all or may happen to a limited extent in a good quality smooth barrel, but there are exceptions.
 
You probably know this already, but the one guaranteed way to get lead in your barrel quickly is to shoot lead after FMJ without cleaning the copper out first.
Or at least press the lead deposits deeply into any imperfection in the bore and cover them with some copper. I used to do just that, but not anymore.

Unless there is significant leading, I don't think it matters much with handgun accuracy. Clean bores are a whole different thing with precision rifles. Then again, there are some rifle barrels that are more accurate after a few fouling shots.
 
The worst leading I ever had was when I decided I should shoot up some too-hot 9mm LRN reloads in my Blackhawk convertible. Yowza.

I've found that a brass jag and a patch that fits tight will push a lot of it out. Sometimes I cut a patch from a lead-away cloth and run that with the jag. Either needs to be a tight fit, like it needs-a-tap-to-get-started tight.

I have a Lewis Lead Remover but don't use it much anymore, except the forcing cone tool.
 
2 thing that worked for me.

1. I had bad leading with some 9mm bullets and discussed with the maker. he suggested using a slower powder that would give the bullet time to fully engage the barrel and seal it. I may have been using Hogden clays. I had some AA #7 that I and the leading disappeared.
2. If I have leading, I wrap a bit of real bronze wool(Ace hardware or marine store) around an old bronze brush, wet it with old Hopes #7 and that scrubs out the lead pretty well and is as cheap as you can get
 
I shoot nothing but lead bullets in my 1948 4" M&P. I wouldn't trust any other bullet not to damage my gem of a revolver. The bullets are around 12 BHN and the velocity is ~950 fps.

The one and only time I got leading in a barrel was when I was first shooting .357 Magnum ammo loaded with HS-6. I shot them in a 4" Model 686-2 and the leading was severe. The charge was 10.2gr HS-6 under a .358" SWC with a 18 BHN. This load is the max listed in the Lyman manual and potentially the most accurate but for the first time ever I produced a load that was way to hot to shoot in any gun. I only fired 3 of the rounds and stopped, it was just too hot... I took the remaining 7 rounds apart and dropped the powder charge to 9.7gr.
 
Bought a Ruger Blackhawk cheap because the owner said it was terribly inaccurate. Checked it over and saw it had a very smooth looking barrel. The owner had been shooting hot loaded soft lead bullets he got from his buddy who reloaded. A Lewis Lead Remover and a lot of work and this gun now one of the most accurate single actions I own.
 
Only way I can afford to shoot my big boomers is with my cast bullets. Started casting in 1972 for my 9mm BHP. Now I shoot cast in every center handgun I own and some rifles. i also shoot cast in my M1 carbines and Garands. Never clogged a gas port and never will. That's an old wives tale.
I keep about a ton of wheel weights on hand.......AND I will never run out of bullets!

For my use, jacketed bullets are a colossal waste of money in a handgun.
 
Mercury is by far the best lead remover. Provided you can find any. I have about a 4-ounce bottle of it, but I don't use it often. And when I do, it's always outside, and with great care. It is not anywhere close to being as toxic as some would have you believe.

Mercury ????? Have you gone Mad from using it
 
I keep about a ton of wheel weights on hand.......AND I will never run out of bullets![/QUOTE said:
Where are you finding real lead wheel weights? I thought they were replaced by the p/c alloy junk years ago.
 
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