my AR10 explosed

What load????? We know you used someone else's primed and sized cases -- but what did you put in them? What you describe seems far more likely an overload than any case-forming problem.
 
What load????? We know you used someone else's primed and sized cases -- but what did you put in them? What you describe seems far more likely an overload than any case-forming problem.

the powder I used is the Vihtavuori N550 high energy and the load: 38.5 grains, the primers: RWS Berdan, case FN nato, bullet Hornady 150 grains FMJ without crimping
 
Neck tension.
Crimping.
Take the time to read about both of them.
Read aloud.

Casings are for sausage.
Cases are for ammo :D

yes you have reason , the crimping is very important and more again with a SA , i have à sérial of factory crimp of LEE ,:223rem, 30-30 winch ,7.62x39 , and too for my hand guns but i'ven't again the 308 FC Lee , i will buy it ,it's impérative :)
 
This thread is another reminder of why I do not reload. If one is going to reload, he should do everything himself and have an incredible eye for detail. Reloading mistakes are very unforgiving.
 
I can't comment with any knowledge of what happened to the OPs rifle. But I reload 14 cartridges, and am very careful, now about 15 years. I use the CCI special "hard" primers for my semi-auto rifles. I also full length my semi cartridges, and usually neck size my bolt rifle rounds. I use a case gage for every cartridge I make, a bit tedious, but picks up the occasional nicked rim or invisible split.

I also put a sharpi ring around the base of each case after I resize it, and discard it after 3 or maybe 4 loads, esp for my 303 Brit guns. For most of my rifles I trickle charge the last few grains.

I will only shoot reloads from one good friend, and I do give him some of my 308. If I give anyone any of my ammo, which is rare and exceptional, I state that he shoots them at his own risk.

I have enough components that I can shoot the rest of my life. If I find a primer on my bench, I toss it, and don't pretend that it surely must be this or that. I don't know, so it goes into the trash.

I chrono all of my loads, and keep careful records of my load and rifle chamber data. What I am saying, is that one can't take all the risk out of reloading one's ammo, but with care and precision, and extreme attention to detail one can produce quality, safe, less expensive ammo.

Other than bulk Lake City 5.56, I haven't bought or shot factory ammo for at least a decade, other than my defensive ammunition.

Being retired, I find reloading a peaceful, relaxing pastime; in fact, I like reloading as much as I like shooting. I try very hard to never have a blown firearm. I also take very good care and maintenance of my firearms. I inspect the bore before every trip to the range, to be sure I don't have a patch or other in the bore or chamber.

And none of this pertains one bit to the OP's situation. Just musings with a late nite cup of de-caf coffee with a few of my wife's cookies.

SF VET
 
This thread is another reminder of why I do not reload. If one is going to reload, he should do everything himself and have an incredible eye for detail. Reloading mistakes are very unforgiving.

I used to reload (RCBS Rock Chucker) for my M28-2 back when I was in college (late '70's) so I could afford to shoot more often (2-3 times a week) and it paid off (shot Master in the Academy). I learned to be meticulous with my loads, used a Reloading Manual and still had a squib load once. I, fortunately didn't pull the trigger again because it didn't feel right but I learned to look at the powder charge in every case before inserting the bullet.

I really enjoyed reloading but I haven't done it since. Even if I restarted reloading, I'm not sure I would do so for my AR's (and I only shoot steel case ammo in my AK's).
 
.... I use a case gage for every cartridge ....
SF VET

Bingo!!!
1. If cartridge case length (base to shoulder primarily) is longer than the headspace distance, the bolt will not lock and the rifle can fire out of battery. Given you could not close the bolt on these loads with a bolt action rifle, I think that is what you had. You MUST gauge all bottle neck cases as far as I'm concerned.

I once had a smith headspace gauge three new, unfired AR-15's I owned, just to be safe, and one had a chamber that was too short FROM THE MANUFACTURER. He reamed the chamber to 5.56 NATO, and I can shoot 5.56 or .223 safely.

2. If your friend happened to reload that .308 to .308 specs rather than 7.62 NATO, then the load may have been too hot for the autogun. No personal experience reloading .308/7.62 here, but I've read many places that you can shoot 7.62 in a .308 bolt (I have), but never shoot .308 in a 7.62 NATO semi auto because the pressures may too high for proper functioning of the semiauto AR.
I think you had an out of battery firing, and I'm glad you are not hurt.
 
reloading

I started to reload in 1962, In '62 I had one squib round, 38 special, caught it and no problem (was learning to reload). in '64 I had one double charge, 38 special, I didn't own a 38 special revolver so I was shooting out of a M-19, No problem. But it was a learning experience. I was 21 and 23 at the time and everyone knows a 20 year old is indestructible. I haven't had a squib or double charge since. I defiantly have put a lot of inexpensive rounds down range Since '64.
SWCA 892
 
In the AR platform, if the bolt properly closes on a cartridge, it is unlikely that neck tension or any other problem with the size of the cartridge would cause the gun to explode. That statement assumes that the bolt is locked. With an over pressure situation in that instance, the problem would be either too much or the wrong type of powder. I don't believe that you could get enough N550 in a 308 case to cause enough pressure to blow a gun. You can get enough of say, Bullseye, into a 308 case to blow up. If the barrel is intact, that tells me that you did not have an obstruction. So to me, this points to the gun firing out of battery. The chamber in most 7.62 AR barrels has more room to allow an oversize round to chamber than most 308 bolt guns. That explains why you can't close the bolt on your bolt action rifle but the round enters the AR enough to almost lock up. It was the perfect storm where the bolt closed enough to allow the hammer to reach the firing pin but not enough to seal the chamber. The good news is that the gun handled the over pressure exactly as it was designed to do and you didn't get badly injured.
 
Reloaded It's a batch of already primed casings that I received from a shooting colleague who died he was an experienced reloader he was 93 years old and had been reloading for years but perhaps senility caused him to make mistakes , now after reflection it may be a problem of crimping not strong enough
I never buy reloads because of the disastrous problems they can have.
 
I started reloading in the very early 80's because I couldn't find any factory loads that shot worth a dang in my Remington 788 22-250. I had tried a half dozen different factory loads and was getting 1 and 1/2 to 2" 100 yard 3 shot groups out of them all. With flyers even worse.

A buddy of mine suggested I try his friends reloads (he was also our firecracker hook up from our younger days)

Bingo !! Right out of the gate If memory serves they were 38 grains of H380 with 55 gr bullet. Like 3/4" groups and under just as they were. I was sold.

I was giving the ground hogs, crows, and various other targets hell at long ranges. I couldn't hit nothing with the factory loads at any kind of range at all.

Shortly thereafter I took up reloading myself. It was cheaper and better quality rounds.And shrunk my groups even more.

You have to take your time and be very attentive to reload. It's not a sling them out there kinda thing. For me anyways. Check and recheck everything.
 
check case length. if they are too long, they won't allow the bullet out of the case into the leade without a huge rise in pressure. This is because the bullet is pinched in the mouth of the case by the end of the chamber
 
Attention:
I appreciate all those who are offering the OP an opinion on what you think might have been the cause.

I do not appreciate all those who are telling him how wonderful they are. There is no reason to give him your ever so careful way of reloading, I'm sure he knows all of it. Some of the posts are bordering on being insulting in a passive aggressive manner.

Please try to keep the comments on what the OP originally asked about. Our forum will be better for it.
 
He blew up a gun so maybe he doesn't know all of it.

I'm not going to argue here. I thought I made it clear it wasn't what was said but the way it was said. Information is good, being condescending is not...

I feel us reloaders are the best of the best and some of the nicest people on Earth and I just want everyone to see that. :)
 
Glad you're ok

Could a high primer cause a slam fire ?

Yes. I use a Forster Co-Ax primer seater partly because of this. It provides more leverage than a hand tool and better feel than priming on a press. Plus it's easy to make wiping a finger tip across the primer to check depth part of your process.
 
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FWIW:

Poor crimping can cause kabooms. I've seen where bullets were set back when feeding in a semi-auto, it wasn't good.

When they set back too far you end up with a bullet in the case (past case neck). Press the loud button and it drives the bullet forward lodging it in the throat of the bbl. This causes extreme pressure spikes.

I have never crimped a bottle neck rifle cartridge, including 308 Winchester going into an M1A. That's a violent action - more than any AR.
 
I have never crimped a bottle neck rifle cartridge, including 308 Winchester going into an M1A. That's a violent action - more than any AR.

Glad everything has worked out for you.

Myself, I wound never recommend or encourage reloaders not to crimp their semi-auto reloads.
 

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