There aren't a lot of critters to run into in WI unless you're far north. Most critters here are two legged.
I do venture out west often, at least yearly, for back packing excursions, hunting trips, etc. The plan is to eventually move out there too.
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- Thread starter Beauseph
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There aren't a lot of critters to run into in WI unless you're far north. Most critters here are two legged.
I do venture out west often, at least yearly, for back packing excursions, hunting trips, etc. The plan is to eventually move out there too.
Re: OP. Welcome to the forum!!! Here you will find excellent people with a depth of knowledge that is encyclopedic. We welcome you and look forward to your participation.
Have done a fair amount of hiking, camping ranging from over night to a week. Have walked many a mile in the woods and fields. Have carried K, L and N frame revolvers, mostly chambered in .38/.357. For out and about hiking, camping, etc., I really like a four inch L frame ... 686 or 586 as the adjustable sights make it easy to get POI + POA with whatever load I am using. I am 67 years old and in reasonably decent physical condition. I do not find the tad bit of additional weight to be a problem. I carry using a Bianchi 111 Cyclone which I use cross draw. This prevents any problems when I am carrying my rifle on a sling. Also it allows me to zip my coat up over my revolver when the weather is wet. HTH. Sincerely. bruce.
Have done a fair amount of hiking, camping ranging from over night to a week. Have walked many a mile in the woods and fields. Have carried K, L and N frame revolvers, mostly chambered in .38/.357. For out and about hiking, camping, etc., I really like a four inch L frame ... 686 or 586 as the adjustable sights make it easy to get POI + POA with whatever load I am using. I am 67 years old and in reasonably decent physical condition. I do not find the tad bit of additional weight to be a problem. I carry using a Bianchi 111 Cyclone which I use cross draw. This prevents any problems when I am carrying my rifle on a sling. Also it allows me to zip my coat up over my revolver when the weather is wet. HTH. Sincerely. bruce.
I was wondering about the nickel plated guns. I found a 19 that is nickel plated
A nickel plated Model 19 would be an excellent choice. Nickel has been used as a durable finish for a long time, and they're pretty to boot! They do require some care, but aren't as fragile as some folks think.
Well as you can see, ask and you will receive. There's A lot of great advice here, so now it a matter of personal preference. One thing I would recommend is getting a copy of "Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson, Forth Edition". If you want to do a deep dive and learn about the nitty gritty of whatever model your interested in this is invaluable. I down loaded a copy to my Kindle and go to it all the time. One thing I pay attention to are milestones in production that Smith has made over the years. A lot of them are common to all models. Like, when they added Model Numbers (1956), the dash numbers, Stocks (grips) discontinued the Diamonds (1968), Pinned and Recessed, 5-Screw, 4-Screw guns and on and on. Each model had long and rich history that is fascinating. As you can probably tell I drank the coolaid . Good luck, good hunting and enjoy.
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Also, keep an eye on the classifieds here on the forums. I've seen some good deal but be quick. The good deals go fast.
Either the 19 or the 66 depending on whether you want blue or stainless.
SGT ROCK 11B
Member
I would suggest a "K" or "L" frame revolver in 357 Magnum or second choice a 38 Special.
Revolvers require training and my wife prefers a 45 ACP 1911.
I would get a current production S&W 686 Plus four inch. If you like it then get others in the herd. I am not sure how often you shoot but getting into the Hobby of Reloading is highly recommended by me. Especially with revolver calibers and 50 years ago 38 Special the most affordable and now it is not.
MTC(SS)Ret
US Veteran
I have no recommendation since I am a novice at S&W revolvers, however, after reading the posts I don't recall any mention of a method of carry. Since it seems the OP was looking for a woods gun, if weight is an issue would a shoulder or chest carry rig be a better option than belt carry?
Just wondering.
Just wondering.
There should be loads of....
...model 10s to choose from. It was one of the most produced revolvers ever and now many people would rather have a semi auto. They don't come cheap, but there are plenty to choose from
And I'm also partial to the 686. I wouldn't worrry about the lock or even MIM parts but I would like to hold whatever I bought, or at least have an inspection period. Of course if you can find one pre-lock and pre-MIM, more power to ya!
For .357 I definitely prefer the 'L' frame over the 'K' frames but there isn't anything wrong with having a 'K' frame .357.
...model 10s to choose from. It was one of the most produced revolvers ever and now many people would rather have a semi auto. They don't come cheap, but there are plenty to choose from
And I'm also partial to the 686. I wouldn't worrry about the lock or even MIM parts but I would like to hold whatever I bought, or at least have an inspection period. Of course if you can find one pre-lock and pre-MIM, more power to ya!
For .357 I definitely prefer the 'L' frame over the 'K' frames but there isn't anything wrong with having a 'K' frame .357.
I actually normally carry appendix. Even hiking. Just what has worked for me.
I'd have to explore other options that I've truly never tried.
If you are going to get into revolvers, eventually you will wind up with a bunch of them. I suggest you start with the list you have already investigated add a 17, 18, 27,28, maybe a 29 and a 500. Then keeping all those in mind buy them in the order you find a good deal on with the price you are willing to pay. That process will get you to your wish list a lot faster and will be a lot of fun too.
I recently shot a ruger security six and an astra police. The triggers on the Smiths are literally a world of difference - SMOOTH.
I have a few questions/concerns about the 66 if anyone is able to potentially assist
I have a few questions/concerns about the 66 if anyone is able to potentially assist
I noticed some numbers that aren't serial matching. I'll post a picture of them.... I dont know what theyre for.
It has two different grips on it, I guess. Which one is correct? Picture for reference.
Also I noticed the cylinder release button is quite loose, especially in comparison to the 10-6 which does not wiggle in place. Is there a way to remedy that?
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Those are assembly numbers. Someone who knows a lot about the assembly of these revolvers might be able to give you a bit more information.
Model 66 no-dash would have had target stocks with the football relief.
Try a proper gunsmith screwdriver that fits the slot perfectly to see if it has backed out a bit.
Model 66 no-dash would have had target stocks with the football relief.
Try a proper gunsmith screwdriver that fits the slot perfectly to see if it has backed out a bit.
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Alright that's what I thought. It's not a big deal to me that these aren't original. Does it pay to grab up an original set or use an aftermarket option that may be more comfortable / practical?
I'll also see what I can find for a screwdriver to fit that slot. I don't have a "gunsmith" set but I do have a large array of tools to use. I'll only try to snug it up with a nice-fitting flathead, though.
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It might make a difference if you decided to sell it at some point. The target stocks with the football relief to match your Model 66 will be expensive. If you are keeping it, go with what you like best. There are quite a few folks out there that like the grips you have with the addition of a grip adapter. I personally like that combination better than the factory targets. If factory targets are what you want, just watch the classified section here. They come up for sale regularly. Depending on when your revolver was manufactured, the washers on the inside of the stocks may be either black or silver. Black are earlier. I have been told the cut-off for black washers was 1973, but I do not know for sure. The Model 66 no-dash was manufactured from 1971 through 1976.
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