10-5 Cylinder Replacement Question

[Grimjaws]

I have a 10-5 blue 2" snub that is currently with my gunsmith that has an issue with one of the cylinder notches. It is not fully catching and I can advance the cylinder by hand on one notch. He is going to try and square off the notch, but we may need to just replace the cylinder.

Besides the obvious of finding a 10-5 cylinder I am curious as to what other .38 Special cylinders I could use
Can I use a newer dash 10 like say a 10-6 or 10-7? An older dash model?
Can I use a 64 for a pinto look and, if so, what dash?
Can I use a model 14 or 15 cylinder as I am seeing more of those cylinders on used sites? Again, what dash a 15-3 or 14.2 for example.

I know gas ring placement and threading for the ejector rod play into this so curious as to what would be compatible to my 10-5 outside another 10-5 cylinder.

 

[snw19_357]

Can I use a newer dash 10 like say a 10-6 or 10-7? An older dash model?

A 10-6, yes unless it's a later one with the gas ring on the yoke.
A 10-7, no. Yes on model 10-2 ~ 10-4.

Can I use a 64 for a pinto look and, if so, what dash?

M64ND or pre-'75 64-1

Can I use a model 14 or 15 cylinder as I am seeing more of those cylinders on used sites? Again, what dash a 15-3 or 14.2 for example.

14-1 ~ pre-'75 14-3, 15-1 ~ pre-'75 15-3

 

[usedkid]

You could have your gunsmith replace just the extractor and not the whole cylinder...or a new oversize hand might work.

 

[Grimjaws]

A 10-6, yes unless it's a later one with the gas ring on the yoke.
A 10-7, no. Yes on model 10-2 ~ 10-4.

M64ND or pre-'75 64-1

14-1 ~ pre-'75 14-3, 15-1 ~ pre-'75 15-3

So would the threads be left hand and gas ring on yolk?

 

[snw19_357]

Left hand threads, yes.

Is your gas ring on the yoke? A late 10-5 gas ring could be and that changes things. By years made, 85% had the gas ring on the cylinder and the last 15% had it on the yoke.

 

[armorer951]

If the cylinder stop is not holding when you exert pressure on the cylinder when it is at rest, you can let the cylinder stop out so that it comes up a bit higher in the frame. Your smith should know how to do this.

The ball of the cylinder stop may also be worn, modified or damaged....and the cylinder stop spring could also be corrupt.

 

[Grimjaws]

You could have your gunsmith replace just the extractor and not the whole cylinder...or a new oversize hand might work.

Hmmm I thought it was the cylinder stop not engaging the slot on the cylinder but will ask my FFL to check the rear of the cylinder to see if any are worn

Thanks

 

[Cotis]

I have solved this issue on two different revolvers by properly fitting a new cylinder stop with a new spring. They go out of spec way before a cylinder notch would. Just my $0.02 (actually about $15 for parts)

 

[Bullseye Smith]

It could be a number of things, try Numrich gun parts for a extractor.

 

[steelslaver]

You could have your gunsmith replace just the extractor and not the whole cylinder...or a new oversize hand might work.

The problem with "just" replace the extractor is the old style extractor with the 2 pins have had the holes for the pins match drilled and extractors seldom seat over the pins of another cylinder. I have yet to find a set that worked. You can do it by removing original pins and with cases in the chambers match drill another set of holes in a new location

Most K frame 38 cylinders will fit as long as the gas ring is the same. Model 12 cylinders will not for some reason they are a bit shorter than ones on steel framed guns. Issues often occur with length of yoke tube being off a bit, either a bit long and cylinder will not close, bit short and lots of endshake, both can be adjusted

 

[Bullseye Smith]

you can use a # 51 or 52 drill bit to enlarge the holes a few thousand inches. They were installed when people started dry firing with empty cylinders.