.45acp Reload Issue

[jimmyj]

Loaded factory duplication loads using CCI LP Pisto primers, Unique Powder, and 230 grain FMT and JHP bullets. Used a heavyvtaper crimp.
Each cartridge passed the "Plump Test.
However when the cartrides were attempted to insert into revolvers' chambers the cartridge would enter except the last thide of the case. Revolvers were Riger Blackhawk.45 and a S&W Model 625 .45acp.
ran each cartridge a second tome though a full length resizing die and then the taper crimp die.
Approx half the cartridges would then chamber but the other half would not

Opinions ?

 

[TJm15.38]

First let me say that I don't have a .45 ACP wheel gun. I shoot a Taurus 1911 and a Glock 21, so there may be some reloading precautions with revolvers that I just don't know about. I load .45 ACP with Hornady 230 grain FMJ using RCBS dies with a taper crimp seating die. In my experience, I have never had to use a "heavy taper crimp" in any load. Without seeing your rounds and the gun, it is hard to say what's going on, but if you are putting a lot of pressure on the case to get "heavy" crimp, you could be deforming the case near the bottom of the case, making them swell enough to prevent smooth chambering. Measure your loaded rounds just above the rim and compare with case specifications to see if this is happening.

 

[Beemer-mark]

I had a Blackhawk with the extra 45ACP cylinder. Really picky about what bullet you use. The only ones I could get to work were 230gn lead RN. The cartridge seats on the case mouth and the cylinder throats are .451. If the bullet at the mouth of case is a little to fat it's a not go. Try crimping your cases (not taper crimp) and see if that helps. I do have a model 25 and it loves any round I chamber.

 

[Krogen]

Try marking the side of a problem case with a felt tip marker. Let the ink dry and then try sliding it into the chamber. You should see scuff marks where it doesn't fit right. That might lead you to the solution. Let us know where the interference on the case is and we might be better able to help.

 

[67tempest]

I had an issue with some of my 45acp loads that didn't want to chamber fully, some would and some wouldn't. I picked up a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die and run all my reloads through that as a last step. Some guys say that's cheating but I'd rather do that than get to the range and find out some of my loads won't chamber.

 

[jimmyj]

I had an issue with some of my 45acp loads that didn't want to chamber fully, some would and some wouldn't. I picked up a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp die and run all my reloads through that as a last step. Some guys say that's cheating but I'd rather do that than get to the range and find out some of my loads won't chamber.

Thank you for the advice.
I have ordered a Lee Carbide Factory Crimp Die.
Jimmy

 

[67tempest]

Your welcome. Running your ammo through that die will "iron out" any bumps or bulges that may have occurred while reloading, it worked for me.

 

[gwpercle]

Too much crimp can swell the case below the bullet , not easy to see .
Back off the crimp and try the "plunk" test ... use the revolver chambber and see if the round will plunk in all the way and plunk out , by gravity .

When I started reloading I did the same thing ... too much crimp .

Back the crimp die out 1/2 turn and see how it works .

You don't need no stinking Lee Factory Crimp Die ... just adjust the one you have ... save some $$$
Load Safe,
Gary

 

[STORMINORMAN]

Personally, I have (and routinely use for those calibers available) the LEE Factory Crimp Dies ... The LEE Crimp Die for the 357 SIG is a collet-style die.

I do also use the LYMAN Multi-Caliber Case Checkers and individual case gauges as well for rifle and handgun reloading. And the "plunk" test: usually with the most restrictive (i.e., the tightest chamber) barrel for calibers for which I have multiple firearms.

I have found that doing so insures that any (and all) reloads will chamber, fire and eject & that when a potential problem might occur I can make the necessary adjustments prior to creating multiple rounds that need to be broken down and/or reworked.

The primary goals being safe, reliable performance every time.

Cheers!

P.S. There are some lead loads (primarilly revolver) that depending upon the bullet construction and/or cylinder chambers don't always result in the most accurate performance when run through a FCD. These are the exception rather than the rule.

 

[stansdds]

Too much crimp can swell the case below the bullet , not easy to see .
Back off the crimp and try the "plunk" test ... use the revolver chambber and see if the round will plunk in all the way and plunk out , by gravity .

When I started reloading I did the same thing ... too much crimp .

Back the crimp die out 1/2 turn and see how it works .

You don't need no stinking Lee Factory Crimp Die ... just adjust the one you have ... save some $$$
Load Safe,
Gary

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Excellent answer. A proper taper crimp should remove case mouth flare and press the case mouth against the bullet, but it is not meant to crimp the case mouth like a roll crimp. Too much taper crimp will push and displace brass just below the level of the crimp, creating a ring around the bullet.

 

[Autonomous]

The Factory Crimp Die is controversial. I retired mine because it was swaging my .452" lead bullets down to .451", the jacketed .45 ACP size.

Does a revolver really require a heavy taper crimp? Serious, not rhetorical question.

 

[SGT ROCK 11B]

I will suggest .45 Auto Rim for a easy to reload for the 1917 or 25-2.

 

[Model19man]

I have loaded 45 ACP for my 1911 pistols and my Smith & Wesson Model 25-2 for a long time maybe 40 plus years. Never had any trouble - I think there is something wrong with your process.

 

[rockquarry]

The Factory Crimp Die is controversial. I retired mine because it was swaging my .452" lead bullets down to .451", the jacketed .45 ACP size.

Does a revolver really require a heavy taper crimp? Serious, not rhetorical question.

Crimp just enough to prevent bullet movement under recoil, and no more. I think many put way too much crimp on all cartridges; this can distort the bullet and affect accuracy. Don't take my word, rather do some benchrest testing and see what works best for you. Also (and there are always exceptions), I've never been able to buy into the heavy crimp creates cleaner and more efficient powder burning.

As for the Lee factory crimp die, it likely hurts nothing if you don't overdo it, but it's not needed if you're doing everything right with your regular die set.

 

[venomballistics]

Could be case head expansion.
A lesser seen pressure sign

 

[Forrest r]

Crimp I've never been able to buy into the heavy crimp creates cleaner and more efficient powder burning.

I'm the opposite, not only can I clearly see the difference on paper. A chronograph doesn't lie.


This is a classic case of needing to use the firearm that is having issues for the plunk test.

Size the brass and test it.
Flare the sized brass and then adjust the crimp die testing until it plunks. Then give the crimp die a 1/8 turn further and re-test.
Now it's time to seat a bullet in a sized/flared case and set it and then crimp and test.

If your reload fails at that point, it's telling you that your flaring die isn't doing it's job. The bullet is bulging the case when it trying to be seating in the under expanded case.

 

[StrawHat]

I will suggest .45 Auto Rim for a easy to reload for the 1917 or 25-2…

I do not believe those will work in the Ruger he has.

Kevin

 

[shil]

Jimmy, I'm presuming you have a dial caliper or a micrometer. I would go to the SAAMI website and call up the specs for .45acp. There should be a schematic there of the cartridge, with dimensions. Measure your cartridges and compare them with the specs. Seems like you have a resizing issue.

Gene

 

[shil]

The Factory Crimp Die is controversial. I retired mine because it was swaging my .452" lead bullets down to .451", the jacketed .45 ACP size.

Does a revolver really require a heavy taper crimp? Serious, not rhetorical question.

Nah. Just crimp enough to keep the bullets from creeping forward from recoil. Load six, fire five, then remove and inspect round number six. If there's forward-creep, SLOWLY increase your taper crimp, repeat if needed, until the bullets stop creeping. I have a couple of those dies you mention (not in .45acp) and use them very sparingly only for bullets with a crimp groove.

 

[BE Mike]

The old test for crimping was to take the completed round and push the cartridge with bullet end into the side of your wooden bench. If the crimp was applied just enough so the bullet doesn't back into the case you are GTG.