Worn Model 10-6, seeking date of mfg & opinions on cerakote/parkerizing etc options

[Jboogie]

Worn Model 10-6, seeking date of mfg & opinions on cerakote/parkerizing etc options

Hi all,

I was at my local range and while walking towards the door, I made that fatal mistake I always make, meandering by their used gun counter. I saw this S&W Model 10-6 buried deep under the glass. I asked to see it, the lockup feels pretty tight and the trigger moves and breaks smoothly. I think it has the heavy bull barrel, and Pachmayr (I think) grips that feel good in the hand. The downside is the gun has lost the bluing almost completely near the muzzle and has quite a few spots where paint is worn off, and a couple specs of what looks like rust/pitting on the ejector rod. I left it behind and made it to my car, started pondering in the driver seat and made the rash decision to go back for it.

The serial number is D492418. Does anyone know approximately when it was manufactured/sold based on that?

Second, I'll shoot the gun and function check it this weekend. Assuming all is well, does anyone have any recommendations on putting a new finish on it, say parkerizing or a cerakote job? I'm assuming getting a gun reblued isn't worthwhile for what can't be more than a shooter-grade wheelgun. Has anyone made a similar re-finish attempt and would you recommend it?

Any insight is appreciated, thank you all! I'm still breaking in the 19-4 I just snagged like a month ago, already back in the doghouse buying more wheelguns

 

[alwslate]

Looks fine as is to me. Good case, no peening of the cyl notches, a little finish wear near the muzzle. ANY type of a total refinish would ruin the gun. I would use a little cold blue on the barrel near the muzzle and be happy with it. And ditch the rubber grips of course.

 

[JP@AK]

The serial number is D492418. Does anyone know approximately when it was Manufactured [or] sold based on that?

It probably shipped in 1973.

 

[Bald1]

The barrel is heavy by virtue of it being a 10-6. I wouldn’t touch it. Clean it real good and put some proper Magna grips on it and call it good.

 

[Jboogie]

Thanks for the insight everyone. Maybe I'll leave it as is, I was thinking that a new coat of something might prevent corrosion and look a little nicer, but I'm not committed to that idea. I could try just some cold-blue solution, I've just never tried reblueing myself and might need to do a little research to make sure I do a decent job. I'm about to clean it and hit it with some Renaissance Wax here shortly and I'll post a couple more pictures. I forgot to mention they had it for $329, I talked them down $300 which seems like a good deal to me. I need to do some more reading on the Model 10 in general and the dash-histories, I wasn't sure if all 10-6s had heavy barrels but that is good to know. I was struck by how natural it feels to point with especially with the bigger Pachmayr grips.

 

[crows]

I would go one better. If the grips are comfortable to you, keep them. That gun is perfect as it is. It probably rode for a long time in some anonymous cop's holster. It is a working gun, meant to be used, enjoy it as it is. Wiping it down with an oiled rag after handling will keep the rust away.

 

[dsk]

Just my opinion, but Cerakoted or matte-finished revolvers are ugly. If you really want it to look new again then get in touch with Glenrock Blue. Personally though I would leave it as-is and shoot the snot out of it.

 

[Bald1]

For a cheap/practical alternative, you can check on eBay for knockoff grips made overseas. I’ve bought a few. Surprisingly nice. Just search square K frame grips. You might even find factory grips at a decent price. Plenty to choose from

 

[jimmyj]

I use "Oxpho-Blue" from Brownells. Comes in creme or liquid.

 

[lihpster]

I'd say you got a great deal. I also would leave it as is, clean it when you shoot it, and wipe it down with an oily rag afterwards. Should be fine, if you don't live at the bottom of the sea. Another thing you can do, depending on how you plan to store it, is get some of the anti-rust paper S&W ships it's guns in. Fairly cheap protection. What you have there is honest service wear, not abuse or manufacturing defect. It tells a story of, "been there, done that" You can buy the t-shirt. A refinish probably won't lower the value below what you have in it now but add in the cost of the refinish and it's making less and less financial sense. If you absolutely can't stand it, a cold blue doesn't cost much, but it won't be as good as the original finish. Whatever you decide to do, it's your gun. Enjoy it. The Mod. 10 is a great revolver and I've always loved the heavy barrel versions.

 

[80sgyrene]

This is an old M&P that was in a lot worse shape than yours OP.

I had to do a lot of work to it, but since I cerakote, I went that route.

I’m happy with the way it turned out, but in your case I would do the cold blue touch ups as recommended, and enjoy it as is.

 

[Hapworth]

If the specs checks out and it shoots, not only would I not refinish it, I wouldn't cold blue it, either.

Cold blue is good-ish for touch-ups on small spots; using it for significant real estate doesn't come out looking right.

Shoot it. Enjoy it. Wipe it down with a little oil when you're done with it. If the grips work for you, great -- if not, throw on ones that do.

Enjoy your shooter.

 

[BC38]

$300 is a buy it now price, all day every day for me!
Oxpho or one of the other cold blue products will make it look better.
There is another thread open right now where a member used Blue Wonder to repair the bluing on the barrel of a K22 that was in way worse shape than your 10-6.
The results look pretty darned good. Good enough that I plan on trying some of it myself.

 

[Birdhunter6]

I would keep the Pachys. Like you, I think they just feel & point right.

I would wipe it down and take it to the range.

As far as a refinish goes, it is a shooter grade gun and no $s spent will change that.
IF it's appearance really bothers you, and if it proves itself to the point that you will never sell it, go ahead.

I don't have any personal experience with Ceracote, but know many who are very happy with it.

Here in the Rust Belt commercial metal finishing businesses are pretty common. I know of 2 that will do a bead blast and matte blue very reasonably. It gives a no nonsense nonreflective finish on a gun you never intend to sell.

 

[Jack Flash]

I would take the Pachs off and give it a good coat of Ren Wax, maybe a double coat to the grip frame. Then put the Pachs back on.

You may be surprised how Ren Wax brings the finish back to life! Of course, where it's completely gone, well, it's gone. I would leave it like that and shoot it. Eventually, if you really want to, go ahead and try cold bluing ...

 

[Rangerone]

This is an old M&P that was in a lot worse shape than yours OP.

I had to do a lot of work to it, but since I cerakote, I went that route.

I’m happy with the way it turned out, but in your case I would do the cold blue touch ups as recommended, and enjoy it as is.

I love these grips! More info please... Maker? Link?

 

[K Frame Keith]

That revolver is beautiful as is. Honest wear.

 

[Jboogie]

Some more photos post-cleaning. Is the color on the hammer normal case hardening, or should I try to hit it with some brass/stainless steel wool?

Looking forward to shooting this one.

 

[Baxter6551]

OP that is a great deal !
DO NOT touch that trigger or hammer !!! They are perfectly case hardened. I agree with the others here. It dosent need a refinish. Clean and ren wax it and shoot the heck out of it. Fun to play with changing stocks.
Both my 10-5 and 10-6 were in MUCH worse shape than yours. I had them both bead blasted. The 10-5 got parkerized. The 10-6 got blued but the sandblasting caused it to be a perfect matte blue. Looks like a model 28. I like subdued finish guns.

 

[80sgyrene]

I love these grips! More info please... Maker? Link?

VZ grips. Unfortunately they don’t make them in the ivory G10 anymore.