Hoppe's No. 9 is not a CLP

[kraynky]

As a kid in the 60's I was taught to clean my guns using Dad's cleaning kit. You know the one, it probably came from Sears or Western Auto and was in a metal case.

Hoppes was used to clean the bore, cylinder and action and "gun oil" was used afterwards to protect everything from rust.

I've never varied from that regiment much at all. I mean I've tried the CLP (clean,lube,protect) products over the last 60 years, but I don't change my regiment much.

The cleaning solution is for cleaning and the oil is used for lubrication and rust prevention. I've never had a problem with that process.

 

[DWalt]

I think the nitrobenzine, or whatever it was, was eliminated long before the 1990s. It seems the only difference was that the original Hoppe's #9 had some (minimal) copper removing value while the current Hoppe's doesn't. It still remains an effective solvent. If you need to remove copper fouling, there are several good products available. Some work fast, some work slow, but they'll all get the job done.

Copper fouling is best removed by using a product made for that specific purpose. I use Shooter’s Choice Copper Remover. There are others.

 

[rockquarry]

Copper fouling is best removed by using a product made for that specific purpose. I use Shooter’s Choice Copper Remover. There are others.

Shooter's Choice is one of the slow ones (overnight is best if you have significant copper fouling to remove) but it works well. It's been around much longer longer than many others in today's market.

 

[stansdds]

Copper is easiest to remove with solvents that contain ammonia. Sweet's 7.62 contains a lot, and I do mean a whole lot, of ammonia. So much that one is advised to not let it sit in the bore too long as it will also absorb moisture and start to rust the bore, even chrome lined bores can be damaged, but it removes copper like no other solvent.

 

[rockquarry]

Copper is easiest to remove with solvents that contain ammonia. Sweet's 7.62 contains a lot, and I do mean a whole lot, of ammonia. So much that one is advised to not let it sit in the bore too long as it will also absorb moisture and start to rust the bore, even chrome lined bores can be damaged, but it removes copper like no other solvent.

I've tried most of them over many years; my list includes Sweet's. It certainly works. The fastest and most effective I've found has been Wipe-Out Patch-Out used along with Wipe-Out Accelerator. Montana X-treme Copper Killer isn't far behind. There are many others, they're just slower.

 

[DWalt]

I've tried most of them over many years; my list includes Sweet's. It certainly works. The fastest and most effective I've found has been Wipe-Out Patch-Out used along with Wipe-Out Accelerator. Montana X-treme Copper Killer isn't far behind. There are many others, they're just slower.

The Shooters Choice copper remover’s instructions warn against letting it stand in the bore. I would guess that household aqueous ammonia solution alone might work, but I have no intention of using it. I believe the commercial copper removers use various ammonium salts instead of aqueous ammonia. There are claims that concentrated aqueous ammonia (10%) with a little dishwashing detergent does a good job of copper fouling removal. Some interesting observations on bore cleaners and copper removers. Gun Cleaning Product Tests

 

[zeke]

I think the nitrobenzine, or whatever it was, was eliminated long before the 1990s. It seems the only difference was that the original Hoppe's #9 had some (minimal) copper removing value while the current Hoppe's doesn't. It still remains an effective solvent. If you need to remove copper fouling, there are several good products available. Some work fast, some work slow, but they'll all get the job done.

The hoppes 9 bought couple yrs ago does have blue on the patches, especially if you let it soak overnight. Does it effectively remove copper is another story.

 

[M29since14]

I also avoid the CLP products, but I do keep a little of it on hand for trying to clean Titanium cylinders.

I have an array of cleaners and solvents but the three I use most are mineral spirits, Hoppe’s, and Bore-tech copper remover. To protect, I like to dry the external surfaces and use Sheath/Barricade.

Lubricating, cleaning, and protecting are separate functions in my thinking. I’m not fond of the one-does-all theory.

 

[diyj98]

The hoppes 9 bought couple yrs ago does have blue on the patches, especially if you let it soak overnight. Does it effectively remove copper is another story.

I started to type pretty much the same thing. I get blue patches with standard Hoppes 9, so I assume it is removing copper. I also have some Hoppe 9 Copper Remover which seems to remove it a bit faster.

 

[Mike SC Hunter]

Duly noted. Of course, one does what one needs to do with what one has: I remember one humid Indiana afternoon between junior and senior years in college using 10W30 oil on the outside of my 439 after noticing perspiration was rusting the slide when I was mowing the grass of the gas station at which I worked - that's all that was in the back room.

Except for on my ARs, I personally avoid CLPs and use various appropriate solvents, lubes (I have quite a variety of lubes and a few different solvents) and protectants (only have a couple) as needed.

In one of my CWP classes a student showed up with a NIB semi-auto.....It would NOT run........I pulled the dipstick out of my truck and "lubed" his gun with the oil dripping off the end....Gun ran fine after that.
If you go back in the Browning archives....OL John reccommeded cleaning with diesel and lubing with motor oil.
Search the formula for "Ed's Red"......A great gun oil/lube......made with ATF.
The SMELL of the old HOPPES would make a great scented candle.

 

[skywag]

I used Hoppe's #9 in the '40s,'50s, and '60s. But after they changed their formula I only still use it as cologne.

Cloward pre-64 243 custom for sale....unfired.

 

[diyj98]

Search the formula for "Ed's Red"......A great gun oil/lube......made with ATF.

I have a friend that wipe down his guns with Ed's Red, but I never would do to the acetone potentially damaging some wood finishes. I do use it for cleaning shotgun bores though.

 

[rockquarry]

I have a friend that wipe down his guns with Ed's Red, but I never would do to the acetone potentially damaging some wood finishes. I do use it for cleaning shotgun bores though.

I've used a lot of Ed's Red and find it to be the equivalent of Hoppe's #9 as a bore cleaner. I've never had a problem with the acetone, but I don't wipe down stocks with it.

 

[Bobbysixkiller]

I bought a bottle a couple years ago that was “synthetic blend”. Bought by mistake as it looked very similar on the bottle. I didn’t like it at all. It felt sticky if I recall. I never used that bottle again and always made sure to get the original bottle since then. Not the product I was used to for sure.

 

[Troystat]

For what its worth I clean with Hoppe's #9 (all blued steel guns0 and wipe them down after cleaning without any oil, been doing this for 40 plus years and no rust or problems. I do think where you live makes a difference I am in CA with very mild weather and shoot almost exclusively at the range. I do use gun oil on the bushing and barrel mating surfaces of my 1911

 

[Model29-26.5]

I use Hoppes for bore and cylinders and Ballistol for cleaning and protecting.
Maybe a little Hoppes oil for inside

 

[diyj98]

I've used a lot of Ed's Red and find it to be the equivalent of Hoppe's #9 as a bore cleaner. I've never had a problem with the acetone, but I don't wipe down stocks with it.

I don't worry about it when using it as a bore cleaner like you do, but using it as an oil on the metal, I'd think some would have to get on the wood.

 

[rockquarry]

I don't worry about it when using it as a bore cleaner like you do, but using it as an oil on the metal, I'd think some would have to get on the wood.

Ed's Red or Hoppe's #9 is "not an oil on the metal", at least for me. I wipe down the metal with a lightly oiled (whatever oil is handy) soft cotton cloth. There's a difference between a solvent and an oil.

 

[Oldsalt66]

Hoppes #9 isn't a CLP, it's a bore cleaner.

Hoppes BoreSnake Oil CLP is their version of a CLP.

 

[Wdbutcher97]

As a kid in the 60's I was taught to clean my guns using Dad's cleaning kit. You know the one, it probably came from Sears or Western Auto and was in a metal case.

Hoppes was used to clean the bore, cylinder and action and "gun oil" was used afterwards to protect everything from rust.

I've never varied from that regiment much at all. I mean I've tried the CLP (clean,lube,protect) products over the last 60 years, but I don't change my regiment much.

The cleaning solution is for cleaning and the oil is used for lubrication and rust prevention. I've never had a problem with that process.

Yes, I'm nearly certain I still have this same kit. Mine is around 55 years old.