Recommendations on Preserving M3 Holster

[Historian13]

If it helps resolve it, here are some better photos of the damaged areas. The first is one section by the buckle, the second and third are the area which has already been shown, and the fourth and fifth are where the strap meets the holster since that feels weak. This is my first M3 holster though so I have nothing to compare it to.

 

[Gun Relics]

Yes, they do look like fibers. The leather has just deteriorated and wouldn't hold a stitch anyway. Best to just leave it alone for a display.

if you dId want to fix it, the rotted area would have to be cut away then the pieces stitched together in a butt joint. A good leather worker could do this and it would not be obvious. It would not be as strong as an overlap joint but you aren't using it as a functional holster anyway.

The problem is really the deteriorating leather. One time I bought a cheap, beat up WWII German soft leather holster. Mold had eaten the leather so badly it literally disintegrated in my hands after I opened the package and I threw it away. Lesson learned!

 

[Historian13]

Yes, they do look like fibers. The leather has just deteriorated and wouldn't hold a stitch anyway. Best to just leave it alone for a display.

if you dId want to fix it, the rotted area would have to be cut away then the pieces stitched together in a butt joint. A good leather worker could do this and it would not be obvious. It would not be as strong as an overlap joint but you aren't using it as a functional holster anyway.

The problem is really the deteriorating leather. One time I bought a cheap, beat up WWII German soft leather holster. Mold had eaten the leather so badly it literally disintegrated in my hands after I opened the package and I threw it away. Lesson learned!

Interesting, thanks. What are your thoughts on something like lanolin to preserve what's there?

I can also relate to your deteriorating holster situation. When I bought this pistol/holster set I knew the pistol had noticeable pitting, but nothing was mentioned about the holster. If I knew about the condition I probably would still try to buy it, but only if it was about $150 cheaper.

Now I'm weighing how much collector value it has (whatever minimal value is present in the poor condition plus what I believe to be a strong case this holster was originally paired with its pistol) versus returning it and taking a ~$180 loss between non refundable taxes, shipping, fees, and return shipping.

 

[Gun Relics]

Interesting, thanks. What are your thoughts on something like lanolin to preserve what's there?

I can also relate to your deteriorating holster situation. When I bought this pistol/holster set I knew the pistol had noticeable pitting, but nothing was mentioned about the holster. If I knew about the condition I probably would still try to buy it, but only if it was about $150 cheaper.

Now I'm weighing how much collector value it has (whatever minimal value is present in the poor condition plus what I believe to be a strong case this holster was originally paired with its pistol) versus returning it and taking a ~$180 loss between non refundable taxes, shipping, fees, and return shipping.

I understand the dilemma. I will say when I was looking for WWII US holsters I saw a lot more .45 holsters than Victory's and I can understand the allure of having an original with the shoulder straps and ammo loops - which is not very common. I hope your Victory has the US Government stamp too.

I think at this point I would just accept it as an original and official war relic with service wounds. It's a complete rig and survived 85 years! I would use Bick 4 as I suggested. The Bick 4 will not discolor the leather and creates a nice surface protection. The leather readily absorbs it and it leaves no sticky coating. It has no wax. It would not surprise me if it is lanolin based. Most conditioners will darken the leather. I think you'll be happy with the results.

These gloves for my mancave were early 1900's, some of Everlast's earliest logo gloves stuffed with feathers. They were pretty ratty when they came in. I treated them for several days with Bick 4 a few years ago and they are still very soft and supple, while retaining the vintage look.

 

[Historian13]

I understand the dilemma. I will say when I was looking for WWII US holsters I saw a lot more .45 holsters than Victory's and I can understand the allure of having an original with the shoulder straps and ammo loops - which is not very common. I hope your Victory has the US Government stamp too.

I think at this point I would just accept it as an original and official war relic with service wounds. It's a complete rig and survived 85 years! I would use Bick 4 as I suggested. The Bick 4 will not discolor the leather and creates a nice surface protection. The leather readily absorbs it and it leaves no sticky coating. It has no wax. It would not surprise me if it is lanolin based. Most conditioners will darken the leather. I think you'll be happy with the results.

These gloves for my mancave were early 1900's, some of Everlast's earliest logo gloves stuffed with feathers. They were pretty ratty when they came in. I treated them for several days with Bick 4 a few years ago and they are still very soft and supple, while retaining the vintage look.

View attachment 774944

Thanks, and the Victory does have the US govt markings. It shipped to Norfolk for the Navy in May 1943, which lines up with the holster date. I asked the pawn shop to contact the previous owner to try and get more info where it came from, and he said they found it buried in their uncle's attic. No idea if that's just a story the pawn shop made up, but the pistol and holster certainly seem to have been sitting together in poor conditions for years if not decades. Assuming the background is true, I'm hoping they'll at least provide a last name for the uncle as a lead to follow, such as matching the last initial on the holster. For now though, after exhausting some other options, I contacted the Rhode Island VFW inquiring if they have any current or former members with those initials.

Gotcha though on the Bick 4, I must have missed that earlier. The gloves do look nice!

 

[Gun Relics]

Thanks, and the Victory does have the US govt markings. It shipped to Norfolk for the Navy in May 1943, which lines up with the holster date. I asked the pawn shop to contact the previous owner to try and get more info where it came from, and he said they found it buried in their uncle's attic. No idea if that's just a story the pawn shop made up, but the pistol and holster certainly seem to have been sitting together in poor conditions for years if not decades. Assuming the background is true, I'm hoping they'll at least provide a last name for the uncle as a lead to follow, such as matching the last initial on the holster. For now though, after exhausting some other options, I contacted the Rhode Island VFW inquiring if they have any current or former members with those initials.

Gotcha though on the Bick 4, I must have missed that earlier. The gloves do look nice!

Don't feel bad - I bought a WW2 P 38 capture package and was able to locate the US soldier's records. The gun was like it just came off the asssembly line and the holster was decent. The US soldier wrote his name and carved his initials on the holster, a beautiful package with capture papers and a Nazi identity card. Problem was, the capture paper was fake. All else was legit but I suspect a family member felt the need to have capture papers with the package so they forged them. Since it was the descendant with the last name of the soldier who sold the package, I didn't even question the paperwork. I was really disappointed. Stuff like this happens when you are collecting historic items. At least yours are the real deal in a world of fakes. I kept the gun and package but there is no way I would pass the fake capture papers, so we don't yet have a complete story.

 

[poledorus]

I would use Pecard dressing to preserve the holster. I have used it for decades to preserve and revitalize leather slings, straps, and holsters. The dressing will make fibers more supple and arrest the dry rot. Small amounts applied with a pure cotton cloth does the trick. Allow the holster to dry between treatments. Also, I would not attempt to restitch the holster until you’ve treated it. Cheers

 

[Historian13]

Don't feel bad - I bought a WW2 P 38 capture package and was able to locate the US soldier's records. The gun was like it just came off the asssembly line and the holster was decent. The US soldier wrote his name and carved his initials on the holster, a beautiful package with capture papers and a Nazi identity card. Problem was, the capture paper was fake. All else was legit but I suspect a family member felt the need to have capture papers with the package so they forged them. Since it was the descendant with the last name of the soldier who sold the package, I didn't even question the paperwork. I was really disappointed. Stuff like this happens when you are collecting historic items. At least yours are the real deal in a world of fakes. I kept the gun and package but there is no way I would pass the fake capture papers, so we don't yet have a complete story.

Geez, that's unfortunate. I can understand why someone might think that, but I can't condone them actually forging documents. I hope you find the missing pieces of your story one day.

For my own part, I'll probably chip away at it here and there. So far I've found a couple people whose initials line up, but nothing certain yet.

 

[Historian13]

I would use Pecard dressing to preserve the holster. I have used it for decades to preserve and revitalize leather slings, straps, and holsters. The dressing will make fibers more supple and arrest the dry rot. Small amounts applied with a pure cotton cloth does the trick. Allow the holster to dry between treatments. Also, I would not attempt to restitch the holster until you’ve treated it. Cheers

Thanks for the tip, Poledorus

 

[DonB1950]

If I was going to clean or treat with anything it would be Urad. Fantastic product for old leather items.

 

[roundels]

I vote leave it alone. Basically, leather is stripped animal skin chemically tricked into not knowing it's dead. Your holster definitely knows. If you go ahead with resuscitation, I'd recommend Pecard's.

 

[nll401]

You may want to look into what is used to preserve leather binding’s on rare books. I remember seeing some specific products recommended a while ago, but cannot remember the name of them.

 

[SPGUSN]

I recently picked up a Victory revolver and holster which have been severely neglected. The worst is it appears the revolver and holster sat somewhere where water leaked onto it, corroded through the holster, and then severely corroded part of the revolver's exterior. Otherwise, the holster's leather has been allowed to become fairly brittle. As a result, a section of strap which went through a buckle has almost ripped in half.

I'm looking for recommendations on what I can use to preserve the areas of the holster which haven't broken. I'm also interested if there's anything I can do to bond/seal the split leather strap pieces together. I don’t expect it to be functional, but I'd like for it to look presentable in a display case. View attachment 774681View attachment 774682View attachment 774683

 

[SPGUSN]

I recently picked up a Victory revolver and holster which have been severely neglected. The worst is it appears the revolver and holster sat somewhere where water leaked onto it, corroded through the holster, and then severely corroded part of the revolver's exterior. Otherwise, the holster's leather has been allowed to become fairly brittle. As a result, a section of strap which went through a buckle has almost ripped in half.

I'm looking for recommendations on what I can use to preserve the areas of the holster which haven't broken. I'm also interested if there's anything I can do to bond/seal the split leather strap pieces together. I don’t expect it to be functional, but I'd like for it to look presentable in a display case. View attachment 774681View attachment 774682View attachment 774683

Highly recommend Pecard Antique Leather Dressing...had a few holsters from the 1920's, and it did a great job on them.

 

[DixieRanger]

Got an Army 1918 stamped leather flap holster with my Colt 1917 revolver. Dry and cracks in holster. Brushed with shoe brush to remove dust and surface dirt. Gently used saddle soap. Let dry then Picard Antique Leather Dressing rubbed in by hand (to warm dressing). Of course will not repair cracks but to stabilize leather. Can holster this 100+ yr old revolver for display but not to use for carry. May add value if sold along with revolver but mine ain't for sale.

 

[Greyman50]

Pecards will turn it very Dark. After collecting and dealing in US militaria for 50 years wiping with a damp rag and leaving it alone is best. Any petro. oil treatment will ruin the stitching. A concoction of bees wax and lanolin is the best for not harming anything if one absolutely wants to do something.

 

[Oldgunslover]

I recommend Lexol Leather Cleaner for cleaning, and Lexol Leather Conditioner or Pecard Antique Leather Dressing for softening and protection. The only problem with Pecard is that it darkens the leather, as Greyman50 observed.

 

[Major 2]

I tend to agree with Greyman50


I also have and collect vintage leather, ONE product I use and admire is Skidmore's

I don't use Pecard's or Lexol both have petrolatum distillates,

Skidmore's nor anything else can help the torn rotted strap however, to preserve the areas of the holster which haven't broken Skidmores

 

[Historian13]

Thanks to all of you guys who have chimed in with different suggestions, definitely a lot of ideas.

@Greyman50 you mentioned a concoction of beeswax and lanolin, is that something you make or is there a product? I see pure lanolin as a product, and I see items like skidmores that mix beeswax, lanolin, and other ingredients together, but havent seen just the two.

Unfortunately I think I need to apply something. The leather is currently contorted into whatever shape someone left it in, and if I try and move it out of that then the leather starts to tear. Specifically, I tried to shift the damaged leather strap out of the buckle, and overnight the next part start to tear ever so slightly.

 

[kc-130nav]

Another vote for Picard's. I also have used it for numerous holsters and found it to be excellent. My holster for the Victory is marked USN Boyt 43
It came with my Navy marked pistol along with a box of 38 special tracer ammo.