Is there anyone running a service to regrind gun screwdriver tips? I’ve got a cigar box full of screw drivers that need refreshed. The hollow ground type. B-square, Bonanza, Stoger and Grace. If I had it to do over again would have nothing but replaceable bit type.
Screw Driver Regrind ?
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DWalt
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Strange, I filed mine just yesterday, I have three hollow ground blade drivers, but I use a set of removable tips mainly. Have owned that set for over 20 years, it has something like 50 bits, all sizes and types. Most have never been used. There should be a law requiring that all screws must have Torx heads.
Probably not worth it as a business concern. You could buy a bench grinder and do them yourself. It's not rocket science. The most important thing is to keep the tip cool with frequent water dips. If it changes color, you've already screwed up.
I have found that by taking the cover off my belt sander the upper curve provides a perfect surface for regrinding or modifying a screwdriver to fit my needs. I have a Delta sharpener that was designed to sharpen high speed cutter knives for planers and the like. I use it so infrequently any more that I have it mounted on a thick piece of plywood and keep it on the shelf, takes too much time to get it down for a screwdriver. I have over the years collected a mess of gunsmith quality screwdrivers from friends that have passed or even a yard sales. Some are in great condition, others need a bit of a tune up and some have been modified to fit a particular screw on a particular firearm. The main thing about regrinding or re-surfacing is as Tom mentioned, you need to take your time and keep that tip cool.
You’d be surprised, but Emory cloth mounted to a board and some patience will fix boogered screwdriver tips.
Depending on the damage, other grits of sandpaper may be necessary.
Obviously, if a large corners is missing on the tip - my method will not work. I can confirm that “dressing up” a tip and making it look nice is not necessarily a professional task.
Practice with cheap tool first.
Use a Belt Grinder instead of a regular grinding wheel.
On that use the driver or the idler wheel round surface as the 'hollow grind' profile.
The belt is smooth as well as the wheel underneath it. The grind surface will be smooth as well.
A grinder wheel is rarely truly flat. So the surface you are grinding,,the screwdriver blade will not be flat either. You will chase after the high and low spots accross the blade trying to even it down to a nice flat surface.
Plus use a coarse grit belt. It will cut much quicker AND not heat up as easily in the process.
Making it less of a chance of over heating the tip while shaping it.
It goes much quicker too.
I use a 180grit and leave it at that.
You still have to be aware of the possibility of over heating the metal and drawing the temper out of it.
So do keep that in mind and a can of water close by to dunk the shank in occassionally.
They don't have to look like highly polished jewels when done. No need for an 800 or 1000grit finish.
Keep the tip square to the shank and the edge even and they will give good service if the temper in the tip is correct.
On that use the driver or the idler wheel round surface as the 'hollow grind' profile.
The belt is smooth as well as the wheel underneath it. The grind surface will be smooth as well.
A grinder wheel is rarely truly flat. So the surface you are grinding,,the screwdriver blade will not be flat either. You will chase after the high and low spots accross the blade trying to even it down to a nice flat surface.
Plus use a coarse grit belt. It will cut much quicker AND not heat up as easily in the process.
Making it less of a chance of over heating the tip while shaping it.
It goes much quicker too.
I use a 180grit and leave it at that.
You still have to be aware of the possibility of over heating the metal and drawing the temper out of it.
So do keep that in mind and a can of water close by to dunk the shank in occassionally.
They don't have to look like highly polished jewels when done. No need for an 800 or 1000grit finish.
Keep the tip square to the shank and the edge even and they will give good service if the temper in the tip is correct.
Someone used to sell a stone specifically for this purpose, think it was Grace. 1/4” shank. Have never used mine, I’m sure there is some skill to getting it right.
Email Grace, they will send you a new one, no questions asked.
THE PILGRIM
Member
‘Well, if you ride it, you got to ride it like you find it
Get your ticket at the station for the Rock Island Line.’
Adjust your screwdriver with file, sharpening stone, abrasive paper to fit your screw.
If it needs a power tool, IMO, you are using the wrong screwdriver!
Get your ticket at the station for the Rock Island Line.’
Adjust your screwdriver with file, sharpening stone, abrasive paper to fit your screw.
If it needs a power tool, IMO, you are using the wrong screwdriver!
I “ruined” my Grace H2 on my grinder for the strange screws on the Zastava revolver side plate screw heads, but it worked for those. They sell them every day, and now I have a special tool for that purpose. Also, I will never take that side plate off again! But it worked when I finally got it all back together. Never again!!
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Hi There,
Brownell's used to sell a mounted grinding wheel for re-grinding the tips
used in their replaceable tip set (Something like Magna-Tip). I've had a set
since around 1990. The stone was mounted on a 1/4" shaft and I would
chuck it in the drill press. I would put the tip in the screw driver handle
and then clamp the unit in a Vee block and dress away. Using the drill
press allows me some latitude on the RPM speed of the wheel. That way,
I can pick an RPM to control the build-up of heat. Also, I wired the motor
on my drill press so I can reverse the direction. This way, instead of one side
wanting draw in the bit and the other side pushing away, I reverse the di-
rection and have equal resistance to the grinding on either side (either both
sides pushing it away or both drawing it in).
Cheers!
Webb
Brownell's used to sell a mounted grinding wheel for re-grinding the tips
used in their replaceable tip set (Something like Magna-Tip). I've had a set
since around 1990. The stone was mounted on a 1/4" shaft and I would
chuck it in the drill press. I would put the tip in the screw driver handle
and then clamp the unit in a Vee block and dress away. Using the drill
press allows me some latitude on the RPM speed of the wheel. That way,
I can pick an RPM to control the build-up of heat. Also, I wired the motor
on my drill press so I can reverse the direction. This way, instead of one side
wanting draw in the bit and the other side pushing away, I reverse the di-
rection and have equal resistance to the grinding on either side (either both
sides pushing it away or both drawing it in).
Cheers!
Webb
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Brownell's sold a round stone with a 1/4" shaft that gets chucked in a drill press or drill to put the proper hollow grind onto screwdriver bits. I actually have one. I do not know if they still sell them but you can check.
A bench grinder with a good wheel will work just as well. Do NOT overheat the bits while grinding or you will ruin the heat treatment.
After being unsuccessful, I buy new screwdrivers.
So many damaged screw drivers, so much reluctance to throw them away.
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That works however there is on occasion a screw in a gun that will require a custom size. I have a few guns that fit that category. Using a bit that is too small risks bunging up the screw head. Bit's are cheap enough to experiment with so might I suggest not giving up on trying to grind them just yet. I have made more than my share of custom sized bits out of necessity.
If you ever work on vintage S&W's, Brownings etc.it is not uncommon to buy a pre-ground bit from Brownell's specifically for that screw just to find hat it is a wee bit to large for some examples. Grinding it down for proper fit is not an option.
I have Brownells gun specific tips and they have never become damaged; if they did I’d replace em. Guess what I’m saying is that it’s just more expedient for me. I have custom ground the occasional screwdriver because I didn’t have the correct one. 
fiasconva
US Veteran
Sure, why not regrind my screwed up Phillips heads so I can muck them up again? I hate those things!
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When I need 'custom' I just make my own.
Nothing to it just to do it.
Made from scratch.
enjoy,
bdGreen
Another handle waiting for the shaft.
Nothing to it just to do it.
Made from scratch.
enjoy,
bdGreen
Another handle waiting for the shaft.
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