New to me 29-2 - How should I deal with wear?

[bobsguns]

Thanks, but I have .44 Specials. As I mentioned, I bought this one to shoot .44 Magnum loads, albeit not a lot of heavy loads. Wear in these guns is enough of a problem that S&W spent years on efforts to make them more durable. I am trying to decide whether to make some of those mods and, if so, now or wait until endshake becomes excessive, the cylinder starts rotating backward onto an empty chamber, shrapnel starts flying out of the barrel-cylinder gap, etc.?

Perhaps the 29 Classic would've been a better fit for what you want to do? Keep this one, of course, because it's super nice.

Stock pic of 29 Classic:

 

[CH4]

Unless you don't plan to shoot lots of 300 grain full power loads and stick to factory 240 loads, the gun will out last you.

 

[03hemi]

Beautiful P&R in that condition, I wouldn't touch it with anything?
I never understood the need to shoot every gun you acquire, but then, I'm more of a collector than a shooter.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Beautiful P&R in that condition, I wouldn't touch it with anything?
I never understood the need to shoot every gun you acquire, but then, I'm more of a collector than a shooter.

I will shoot every gun I acquire at least once, and maybe only once.

 

[bananaman]

I have a 29-3, and hand load for it. Load magnum cases withheavy 44 Special Data. Easier on wallet and hand. Bob

 

[shil]

I haven't fired my own 29-2 in years. At age 75, pride of ownership is enough for me. The last time I fired it, I used a .431 cast 250 Keith SWC (The gun has .432 throats). Using data for mid-range loads with Unique I encountered sticky extraction with even the start load. Referring to my old records, I never had an issue in the past using 250 cast swc bullets and Unique but in this case I was never moved to experiment further. I use a 629-4 Classic for occasional shooting. After 25 rounds, it's no longer fun. Fatigue.

 

[03hemi]

I will shoot every gun I acquire at least once, and maybe only once.

Why?

 

[PauldL]

Goodness, congratulations OP - thats a stunner of a 29-2
If it were me, id get a very nice leather holster made for it (I really recommend a Tucker & Byrd HF3) & I wouls both wear it & shoot it occasionally.
I cant see any reason to just let it sit in a safe - have some fun with it & pass it on to whomever you choose.

 

[Dan W. Cady]

Thanks, but I have .44 Specials. As I mentioned, I bought this one to shoot .44 Magnum loads, albeit not a lot of heavy loads. Wear in these guns is enough of a problem that S&W spent years on efforts to make them more durable. I am trying to decide whether to make some of those mods and, if so, now or wait until endshake becomes excessive, the cylinder starts rotating backward onto an empty chamber, shrapnel starts flying out of the barrel-cylinder gap, etc.?

Even Dirty Harry shot heavy specials in his!

 

[Sebago Son]

I have been shooting 29-2s since the 70s and never needed any of the "E-upgrades". Then again I never go stupid with my handloads. I always use moderate loads for most of my shooting and save the hunting ammo for sighting in and actual hunting. I think the best thing you can do is handload down in pressure and get a lined holster for that nice 4".

 

[Sebago Son]

A good choice..... Matt Curry of Camp Curry Leather.... Patton No. 5 for a 4" N-Frame. Good Gear, reasonable prices and the fastest turn around for custom leather I have eve seen.

 

[ameridaddy]

Using less than full power ammo for the majority of your shooting should be adequate for minimizing wear. I'd certainly shoot it before making any modifications to the forcing cone, it may shoot very accurately as-is.

I fell for a beautiful 4" Model 29-2 and bought it on sight. It is practically NIB. I am thrilled to get it but I am aware that it won't be as durable as later Model 29s that have the endurance upgrades. I remember these revolvers spitting lead and jacket fragments back in the 70s and saw the cylinder rotate backward on one gun. I plan to shoot mostly mid-range and below-maximum cast bullet loads in this revolver, so hopefully will never have to worry about significant wear, but I would appreciate advice on the following:

Should I be pro-active and have as many as possible of the endurance package features installed now, such as springs, bolt stop, etc.? I understand that it may not be feasible to retrofit some of the endurance upgrades such as lengthened cylinder stop & notches, bolt block, radiused studs and cylinder yoke mod with heat treatment.

If I should retrofit as many of the endurance features as possible, should I send it to the factory or to a gunsmith? Any recommendations for a good gunsmith for the older Smiths?

I plan on having the forcing cone opened to 11 degrees as well. Any thoughts about having it done by the factory vs. a gunsmith?

Thank you

That's a gorgeous gun you found there!
1. I have not had good luck with the current S&W Performance Center.

2. I'd leave it alone for now, and start low and work up an accuracy load for the gun using a 240 gr bullet that's readily available and suits your budget. It may turn out that it likes a moderate load that your gun can handle forever. Even a moderate load in 44 mag is startlingly powerful, but fun to shoot and won't hurt the gun.

In the late 70's early 80's, I bought two new 29-2's to shoot metal silhouettes. I used 240 gr jacketed bullets and ended up using max loads because they were the most accurate in my guns with enough power to knock down rams at 200 yards.
I was practicing one day and felt a warm sensation on my neck, swatted at it thinking it was a bug, and came away with a bloody hand. Long story short, the crane was slightly warped, the cylinder was out of time, and the gun was shaving lead, and a piece of lead bounced off the frame or forcing cone and went back through my ear. I was wearing safety glasses and ear plugs, not muffs.

We had a fine gunsmith in town then, and he installed a ball detent on the crane, which helped, but about once/year, or IOW, at about 1,000 rounds, it would start spattering me and shooters along side me with lead, and I had to have him retime the gun. If it were me, I'd be loathe to modify your gun, and instead buy a newer 29 classic like previous posters suggested, if you must shoot hot loads.

3. If you do go the mod route, be damned sure the gunsmith is a proven expert at what you want to achieve, not some fast talking self-proclaimed expert selling his high tensile Johnson Rod frame frammajammer mod, or you may spend a lot of money and have a devalued gun that doesn't work and you can't sell.

Moral:
1. A steady diet of max loads in an old 29 will beat the gun up quickly.

2. Always, always wear eye protection. Don't even think about shooting even one round without it. The hole through my ear healed just fine, but if it had been my eye....

 

[ken158]

If you think you need a gun with the endurance package… why didn't you buy one? Your 29-2 will serve you well as long as you do not fire rifle pressure loads in it.

 

[PauldL]

A good choice..... Matt Curry of Camp Curry Leather.... Patton No. 5 for a 4" N-FrameView attachment 791915. Good Gear, reasonable prices and the fastest turn around for custom leather I have eve seen. View attachment 791913

Oh wow, thats very nice indeed!
I have to ask, what's the turnaround time?

 

[Sebago Son]

Oh wow, thats very nice indeed!
I have to ask, what's the turnaround time?

I have bought 6 rigs from Matt and his turn around varied from a couple of days to a couple of weeks. The last time I ordered from EL Paso the rig was 18 months getting done and then it was wrong. I would put Matt's quality on par with El Paso on their best days. His prices are about half of the same rig from El Paso.

 

[Fullmetaljacket]

I read an article some years ago by Brian Pearce in Handloader magazine that included 3(?) different pressure levels of .44 mag loads. I don't remember the specifics, psi levels, etc. but I do remember him saying that for him the pre-endurance package 29's should be treated like a fine English double-gun. Full house loads, occasionally ok but not a steady diet, particularly the 300 gr. bear busters that have become available, i.e. Cor-Bon and heavy handloads. I've taken that to heart and baby my 29-2. If I need to stop a freight train with one shot I'll break out the Ruger or 29-5 Classic Hunter.

 

[AC Man]

As Elaine used to say on Seinfed "are you out of your mind" LOL have 14, 29-2 and a couple pre model 29. You are no going to wear it out. They are good for multi thousands of 44 mag rounds.

 

[dshuf118]

Thanks, but I have .44 Specials. As I mentioned, I bought this one to shoot .44 Magnum loads, albeit not a lot of heavy loads. Wear in these guns is enough of a problem that S&W spent years on efforts to make them more durable. I am trying to decide whether to make some of those mods and, if so, now or wait until endshake becomes excessive, the cylinder starts rotating backward onto an empty chamber, shrapnel starts flying out of the barrel-cylinder gap, etc.?

I second the advice - Shoot it! See if you have any issues, then if you do you can fix them. I bought my M29-2 in 1978 and have been shooting it since. Used it for handgun metallic silhouette with heavy 240 grain loads. No issues but I was much younger then. I load 240 grain SWC/plated FN to 1100-1200 fps which is much more comfortable to shoot than my old IHMSA loads. If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it.

 

[Model29-26.5]

Why?

For me, it's mostly about acquiring/collecting and completing sets of the models I like in barrel lengths and finishes. However, occasional shooting is enjoyable and I feel they're made to be shot. That might mean just once for me…maybe more. I feel if I buy it I should shoot it. If there's a gun I have that I haven't shot…my brain feels it just sitting there waiting. Everyone is different I guess. I own 14 that I have not yet fired.