I figured maybe one of you all knew the answer to this question:

I bought an unfinished walking stick in Ontario Canada at a Mennonite shop this summer. I am not sure of what wood it is, exactly, except that is it light colored and finely grained.

Bearing in mind that I am not very familiar with wood finishes, what would you recommend I buy at Lowe's to finish the wood?

I'll have this out in all weathers, so something durable would be preferred. Maybe some kind of all in one finish, if there is such a thing, that would be relatively easy to apply?

I would appreciate any advice here; there are just so many different products on the shelves for wood finish, it is a little confusing to me.

Thanks!

rich

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Take your time, fast. J.Hughes

I'm not a wood expert either but I'd recommend something like teak oil. It does not darken the wood and it makes it more resistant to the elements.

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Jorge

I prefer Polyurithane but maybe this Link will help.

What's the Difference Between Polyurethane, Varnish, Shellac and Lacquer? | Painting Ideas, How to Paint a Room or Furniture, Colors, Techniques | DIY

I have also heard of People using Spar Varnish because it is used to protect the Wood on Boats.

Since I had it on hand from a stock refinish I used BLO on a red oak stick. It looked okay and never warped even after a few good soakings.

First question: do you want a shiny (sp) or a soft satin finish?

Second: do you want to keep the light color or something darker?

If you want something darker you will need to stain the wood. Min-wax makes good stains but there are many brands and colors. I prefer to stain with one product and finish with another.

If you want a shiny durable finish then polyurethane is the way to go. Just be careful and apply many thin coats rather than one thick one. If you want a durable satin finish I like Formby's Tung Oil varnish. Several light coats will seal the wood and are easily maintained. Formby's is applied with your hand while polyurethane is generally done by spray or with an applicator.

I'm not a pro at this but have done a few gun stocks and a lot of shelves in my house.

Hope this helps.

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Quando omni flunkus moritati.

I prefer tung oil for refinishing stocks. Apply several coats, burnishing with very fine grade steel wool between coats. Tung oil seeps into the wood grain to seal against weather, and will not discolor as I have had polyurethane do on some wood. A good wax will help protect the finish even further. I use Renaissance Wax on my firearms.

Tung Oil and Boiled Linseed Oil, both work well, and the nice part is that you can put another coat on pretty much anytime you want.

Tru-Oil also works well and dries fast, but it has a lot of shine to it, which is great if you want a glossy finish. Otherwise, you'll want to lightly buff it with a piece of wet 0000 steel wool to knock it back to a smile-gloss or satin finish.

I'd probably use beeswax. It's what I use on my wooden knife handles to seal up the grain against moisture. Not toxic, and won't change the color of the wood.

The easiest place to find it around here is as Sno Seal. Yep, it's good for waterproofing boots, too.

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Not in jail.

Stain or not depending on what you want, then put several coats of gloss polyurethane on it. It will shed water like glass, and be easy to keep clean.

It is what I use on my hunting rifle stocks, and on wood hand rails in my home. Cheap, easy to find anywhere.

Since this is a walking stick and not a gunstock you will be hitting it and generally knocking it around,
I would use something that actually feeds the wood rather than just covering it like bee's wax, or an evaporating oil like BLO. Varnishes, shellacs, and polys just cover the outside surface of the wood with a thin barrier of protection that is easily cracked chipped and otherwise rendered useless. Most of the so called tung oils available from big box stores are a varnish and not a true oil, so unless you can easily get real tung oil stay away from the Birchwoodcasey or Formby's.


I use a bee's wax concoction I keep in a crock pot on my workbench to seal the wood on all my hand tools, consisting of 4 parts bee's wax, 3 parts real tung oil, BLO, or EVOO and 1 part lemon or orange oil. I ladle it onto the wood, once the wood is coated I then heat it slowly with a torch and let the mix soak into the grain, while the wood is still warm I ladle more of the mix over it until the wood can absorb no more. I heat it one last time with the torch then wipe off the excess and call it good.


This is an early post war Plumb Victory Cedar Pattern House Axe, you can see how dry the wood is in the first shot, in the second shot the head has been redone but the wood looks and feels much better and is actually very water resistant.

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Regards,
Guy-Harold Smith II

I've used spar varnish and anyone that has ever been around wooden boats will tell you that its something you have to do about every pull-out or every year, the trick is getting it thin enough to apply smoothly without running.
For a walking stick that going to take a beating just knocking around chairs and such I'd probably go with a light polyurothane, which is basically a plastic finish...make sure your wood is clean and free of any wax or oil.
I have always been fond of boiled linseed oil on working surfaces, including my solid wood work bench, about once a year I clean it all up and rub a coat of linseed into it, makes it alot easier to clean with a wipe of a rag, tung oil is great stuff as well and is a very good finish on heavy oily woods like teak, gum, etc. I've even had good luck using it on gunstocks, I prefer boiled linseed for that as I don't like a polished look. Wax is great to use with any oily finish that doesn't completely seal the wood.
A trick I learned along time ago to fix your handles to the head of any tool from hammer to broad-axe. Once you get the head on the tool and your happy with the fit and have driven your wedge in and finished off everything, set the head of the tool in a can of old anti-freeze, completely submerge the head just so its covered and maybe about a half an inch above so when the anti-freeze soaks into the wood there will be enough to soak in. Let that sit for a couple days to a week or whatever, at least a couple days. The head will never dry up and work itself loose.

Why buy it at Lowes? Buy it from some local paint store or hardware store and keep your money in your area.

Me I'd use BLO buffed with a soft rag an hour after application. No touching up scratches, extra coats with no prep. The more coats the glossier it gets.

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LIVE FROM THE DAWGHOUSE

I am not a expert but I have made a few walking sticks. I use Min wax stain to finish it. I have used the dark walnut stain. It is a very dark brown stain. A couple of coats and it will be a really really dark brown. I usually use 2 or 3 coats.

I would recommend looking at the honey oak for a much lighter color. When you are there just look at the colors and pick a light one if that is what you are wanting.

Then I put on ZAR brand exterior clear gloss polyurethane. It is made for outside use and is self leveling. I wipe it with 0000 steel wool to sand any air bubbles off between coats. Wipe it down with a cloth before applying the next coat. I usually put 3 coats of this also.

Here are some tips.
-I recommend that you wear the vinyl gloves while applying the poly and stain.
-I put a sheet of plastic down on the floor before I start staining and applying the poly.
-I also use a B&D workmate to clamp the very bottom of the stick. This allows you to work around it instead of holding it. If you don't have one take a piece of 2x4 and cut it in two. Then cut a V shape in the middle. Put this is a vice with the stick clamped in the middle.
- I apply the stain using my index and middle finger and just rub it on. This eliminates runs.
- You never said if this stick has a tip on the bottom.What I usually do is go to the drug store and buy some tips for canes or crutches. I usually fit the tip before sanding and staining. I highly recommend you put a tip on it if it doesn't have one.

Use 1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 white vinegar and 1/3 mineral spirits.

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Don

I am a wood expert/finishing, whatever and teak oil's a great choice and it DOES darken wood.
The stick must be dry to use a finish like a varnish or it will kick it off and might be green wood now-hard to say how dry unless you weigh it after some time in the dry to see if it lightens any? I wouldn't spend much on finish-spar varnish is for outside exposure but not cheap either! Don't you have something around the house to use like peanut oil or crisco oil? ATF (thin with a solvent to gain penetration) if you like the "look".
a leftover outside wood stain or wood protection of any kind like a sealer will work OK for a walking stick.
We have a pile of them behind the house (hike on farm) and they last for years with zero finish. If I carved one (thus it becoming a "see-pretty") I'd use an oil of some kind like a danish oil (classic formula is 1/3 turpentine/mineral spirits,1/3 old time or poly varnish, 1/3 boiled linseed oil) or leftover wood preservative type oil as I use on my log house.
I'd use shoe polish before i'd spend money on anything else.

If it's a fine sanded stick, Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil is some good stuff. (Brownells has it)Easy to apply, makes it pretty and it's durable. Easy to touch up, too. I buff with a 0000 bronze wool.

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Halfway and one more step

I'm a little late to this party, but I like genuine Tung Oil. The Formby's stuff is really easy to apply and is pretty good, but the genuine stuff is better in the long run.

It's super simple to use. Here's how:

1. Sand the stick to make it smooth up to at least 220 grit. Regardless of how it came, it will need at least a 220grit sanding. This will remove all the surface grime and let the Tung Oil soak in evenly.
   
2. Apply the Tung Oil with an old t-shirt. Just a dab on the cloth and rub it in with two fingers. Let it stand for about 15-20 minutes.
3. Apply another coat. Be sure to rub it in. Let it stand over night.
4. The next day, repeat steps two and three.
5. Keep doing this until you have at least 5 coats on it.

Now, just how shiny do you want it? This must be answered before I go on.

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Freedom isn't free.

Are there different kinds of teak oil? When I used it many years ago the wood was of course darker right after applying it. But it did not keep that tone, it did lighten up after some time.

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Jorge

I use a mix of 1/2 Boiled Linseed Oil and 1/2 Pine Tar, it will slightly darken the wood; I also use it on wooden tool handles.

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"Life is short, hunt hard"

My choice would be boiled linseed oil (BLO). You can apply it in multiple coats as time goes on and repair scratches and dings with ease. Apply and let it soak in, then remove excess and let it dry. Repeat as you see fit. Multiple coats will provide you with a beautiful finish. A gentle polish when it is dry with a Scotch Brite pad followed by several more coats and a buffing will give a beautiful surface. A coat of Johnson's Paste Wax after a final buffing will make it pop. BLO will also develop a beautiful patina as years go by. I've tried about everything over the last 50 years and keep coming back to BLO. Other alternatives are often faster, but I prefer the results I get over time with the BLO. Just my opinion based on long term experience and personal preference.

Back a long time ago,my fil, a cabinet maker helped me to refinish an old shotgum stock. Gradual sanding finishing with 3-0 steel wool. Rub in blo with your hand until it feels hot. Dry overnight. After 7 days rub it on thick and let dry for several days. Satin finish. Don't know what ingesting the oil into the hands will do longterm though. Use judgement.