Recent content by SoulLessGinger

I'm by no means an authority on the subject, but from the couple of Smiths I have, I can say the internals on the newer ones are nowhere near as smooth as the older models. They have some kind of gritty black oxide finish on the internals that inhibits smooth metal to metal contact of the...

Yep. Lesson learned. At least I can work on it without worrying about messing it up since it's a *** anyhow. :)

Yeah, he's got a lathe, though. I can swing a drill press, but the lathe might be tough this year.:D I see what you're saying though, looks like the same technique one would use, no matter what you use to turn the ejector rod.

Yeah, I'm not really a Harbor Freight type guy, anyways. I definitely prefer buying used quality stuff to new cheap stuff. Guess I'll just have to bite the bullet. Thanks.

True :) No, unfortunately the gun is not smooth. When I first picked it up, I opened the cylinder, cleared the chambers, and closed it again, but then the cylinder wouldn't turn easily. On a few cylinders it was binding. At the time, I just chalked it up to fouling. But once I cleaned it...

I've checked Numrich and Hoosier, and they don't list ejector rods for 3" j-frames. Any other ideas out there? Unless it is the same as the 2" part (can't imagine it would be), it is starting to look like I'm going to have to fix it myself. Am I going to need to speed up my search for the...

Low odor mineral spirits is what I use. Does fine with blueing, don't know about nickel, though...never tried it.

I also had one other issue with this little guy that maybe you guys can shed some light on. I had a bit of trouble removing the hammer strut/mainspring assembly. When the hammer is fully cocked (or at any time in it's movement), the hole where the paper clip goes did not move down enough to...

Good point about the frame threads, the gap just seems very pronounced in this gun. The barrel seems straight, though, just looking at it. In regards to the marks, yes, I was referring to those radial ones. I think you're right, probably just from firing. I've never had a blued revolver...

I bought this gun not too long ago on gunbroker, decent price, but the seller said it was fired "little if any". When I got the gun, I noticed it was in beautiful cosmetic condition. However...when I got it home and on my workbench, I noticed the action was so badly leaded at the topstrap...

I'm a trigger Nazi, and imo, the 3rd gen S&W autos have a great trigger, provided your trigger return spring is in good working order. You need more range time. The reason you have so much take up in single action is because you are letting the trigger come all the way forward after firing...

Definitely interested, but after buying the gun, some stuff for it, and having the AC at my house (In Florida, mind you) break down this week, it isn't the greatest time. Hope he still has some in a few weeks.

Good to know...thanks for the reply.

I highly recommend it. S&W should never have stopped making the 3rd gen autos.

You said it! I just wish I'd taken some before and after pics. I got it polished up nicely with a hard arkansas and then some Mother's. I also polished the channel it rides in. Trigger is smooth now except that the bent hammer strut is rubbing on the inside of one of the hammer hooks...