My "lightly used" Model 37

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I bought this gun not too long ago on gunbroker, decent price, but the seller said it was fired "little if any".

When I got the gun, I noticed it was in beautiful cosmetic condition. However...when I got it home and on my workbench, I noticed the action was so badly leaded at the topstrap corner, barrel, and cylinder face, that it was almost totally locked up. The chambers were also heavily fouled.

Clearly the gun was fired. So first thing I do is whip out the trusty shop manuals, run the function tests, and strip her down to parts. After a dip in the parts washer and a good deal of scraping with some picks, I got her clean. But once all the lead was removed from around the barrel, I saw this:
IMG_0749.jpg

The area around the frame has a big gap on the right side, while the left side appears tight.

There are also some odd stretch? marks on the frame around the barrel:
IMG_0748.jpg


Also, where the bolt comes through the recoil plate seems to be pretty wallowed out:
IMG_0751.jpg


Since this is my first Airweight, I'm just trying to find out if this is normal wear for a low round count gun. The asymetrical gap around the barrel mixed with the severe leading makes me question whether the barrel is tweaked on this thing. Not sure I even want to test fire it at this point.

Thanks in advance for any help. :)

My feeler gauges were too thick to measure endshake properly, but it feels like it it is still in spec (will track down my other feeler gauges today and get a proper measurement).
 
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The gap on the right side of the barrel could simply be where the frame threads are at max diameter. One revolution of the threads will have the max diameter and the min diamter 180 degrees apart at the end of the frame.
Not sure I see the stretch marks. Are you referring to the radial marks on the back of the frame on either sides of the barrel? These I would think were caused by firing.
 
Good point about the frame threads, the gap just seems very pronounced in this gun. The barrel seems straight, though, just looking at it.

In regards to the marks, yes, I was referring to those radial ones. I think you're right, probably just from firing.

I've never had a blued revolver before and I'm starting to understand that wear is just much more apparent than it is on a stainless. My only other wheelgun is a 686, and when cleaned up, it could really pass for NIB.

Thanks a lot for the reply.
 
I also had one other issue with this little guy that maybe you guys can shed some light on.

I had a bit of trouble removing the hammer strut/mainspring assembly.

When the hammer is fully cocked (or at any time in it's movement), the hole where the paper clip goes did not move down enough to be visible. I had to take a brass punch and slide the cap back to get enough clearance to see it and get the clip in. Any ideas?

I also got around to measuring the yoke endshake: It will just barely let a .002 feeler gauge in when the yoke is closed and the retaining screw is in.
 
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Are you sure the "cap" is not on backwards?? The cup part should be facing the spring. Other than that, you got me with out a photo..........

Also the marks you refer to as "stretch marks" look to be more of a lead spitting issue.

Aluminum frame guns do not wear as gracefully as steel does. It is not uncommon to see a cracked frame where the barrel screws into it. I have a M37 that was fired no more than 150 rounds (bought it new) and it looks like it has fired more rounds than my 60-7 in which I've fired THOUSANDS!

Chief38
 
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If there are NO visible cracks and the gun is reliable, smooth and accurate, I would not be overly concerned about the small space on the right side. I have RARELY seen any gun that I could not find SOMETHING to pick at. IMHO there is no 100% absolutely perfect gun. Not even on a fancy $10,000 Shotgun. There's ALWAYS something..........

Chief38
 
If there are NO visible cracks and the gun is reliable, smooth and accurate, I would not be overly concerned about the small space on the right side. I have RARELY seen any gun that I could not find SOMETHING to pick at. IMHO there is no 100% absolutely perfect gun. Not even on a fancy $10,000 Shotgun. There's ALWAYS something..........

Chief38

True :)

No, unfortunately the gun is not smooth. When I first picked it up, I opened the cylinder, cleared the chambers, and closed it again, but then the cylinder wouldn't turn easily. On a few cylinders it was binding.

At the time, I just chalked it up to fouling. But once I cleaned it and no change, I started measuring things. It has a bent ejector rod :mad: Don't know yet if the yoke is bent, and alignment tools are on backorder everywhere I've checked.

In regards to the mainspring cap, the cap is definitely on the right way. Cup towards the hammer strut and rounded side down. But cocking the hammer doesn't move the hole into view, even when taken past the notch to max. I'm stumped on that one.

Thanks for the help, by the way. In a way, I'm almost glad the gun is a dud. I love a good project.:D
 
Well then ............

The only other things I can think of is that the parts might have been changed to non Factory parts for some reason. I have never seen that issue on a J-frame........

Or, you just might have gotten a defective strut. I've never seen that, but there is always a first time for everything.
 
Quite simply this gun has been abused by someone slamming the cylinder open and closed and it also looks as if it has digested a lot of high velocity light bullet loads. And obviously they never worried about cleaning the thing. Some people consider these guns to be "disposable" and just beat them to death and sell them. Alloy frames are particularly subsceptible to this. This why any used revolver needs to be carefully checked by someone who knows what to look for. Especially an alloy frame.
 
:mad: I just picked up a 629 in EXCELLENT condition on GB :rolleyes:

There are decent folks that sell there & we have the majority selling beat to _ell abused stuff as EXCELLENT or Like New condition :mad:

This 629 the end shake is so bad the cylinder will slam the barrel, we have the typical "dremel mess on the exterior" and black carbon I have no clue what will remove it :mad: soaking in hoppes is not doing it.

I am an unhappy camper being mislead. oh even the hogue S&W grip was torn :mad:

Red flag the guy for being a misleading *** :mad:
 
Yep. Lesson learned.

At least I can work on it without worrying about messing it up since it's a *** anyhow. :)
 
That is a shame! After buying 60 or so guns on GB over the years, I have only been disappointed one time and that seller did the right thing and returned all my money including the freight both ways. I have found that the vast majority on GB are reputable sellers and want to accurately describe their wares so the buyers are happy and so they maintain their excellent feedback responses. Like anything else in this world, there will always be a few bad apples in any basket.

Chief38
 
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