Renaissance wax VS Johnson Paste wax

I use Johnson's wood paste wax on my refinished rifle stocks. The 0000 steelwool lightly after 6 to 8 applications of young oil I use the Johnson's wood paste wax to bring the finish out. It's hand rubbed perfection.

I'm using the G96 silicone spray for guns on all my guns in storage. It seems to work the best so far.

Is mother's car wax next? Anyone? No takers?

hey Bill,

What brand of young oil do you use?
 
For years I used Butchers Wax on all my stocks. Rifle and pistol. With advice from an old woodworking friend I tried Johnsons. It's not near as sticky and provides a nice finish that has very low build up. It comes in clear and amber. I use the clear. I've tried the Ren on wood and don't like it at all. BUT, on metal I think it's the cats meow. It does help reduce finger prints from handling and a quick wipe down with a cotton or terry cloth rag will spiff it right up.

DW
 
How to install

Do you need to degrease the pistol before you apply the wax? After you have waxed is oil still needed to prevent rusting?
 
You can put 20 coats of Ren Wax on the gun but it's not going to hide. Blemishes. I have been bored at times and the tin sits next to me as do a few guns. I have put a number of coats on some guns and it looks no different than one coat snd all that does is give it some shine snd protect.
JR.
 
Do you need to degrease the pistol before you apply the wax? After you have waxed is oil still needed to prevent rusting?

I don't, but I usually wipe the exterior down with whatever bore cleaner I happen to be using before waxing. I simply incorporate the waxing operation into the normal gun cleaning protocol as the last step. I keep a cotton rag in the JPW can (The same rag has been there for many years), and do a wax wipe as the last step. I let it set for an hour or so to dry, then polish it with a paper towel. No need to oil it after waxing. The wax prevents corrosion. I also use paper towels for bore cleaning instead of cloth patches, and have for many years. You can tear the paper toweling to whatever size you need.
 
I had read somewhere that the Ren seals the oils in the pores of the metal so no rust can form. They were saying do not degrease. Theo
 
RW recommends application to a cleaned surface for best results. I like to clean with mineral spirits to degrease and alcohol for wax removal.

To clarify and not keep beating a dead horse, JPW contains both paraffin and carnauba wax, at least the latter is known to be acidic or to become acidic overtime. Microcrystalline Wax does not. JPW contains 5% to 10% MCW. The formulation for RW is MCW and Wax A (a polyethylene wax) in the approximate ratio of 4 to 1 (Thats 80% in my neck of the woods). The latter is used for its adhesive properties. I don't think it can be characterized as a paraffin wax.

JPW wax is excellent for its intended purpose - waxing floors. RW was developed to preserve metal over a long period of time. Its not without critics but I think is better suited for this purpose.
 
No Hoopla Here

I'm gonna go to Home Depot and get a can of that stuff, just because I have never waxed a revolver in my whole life, and I think it's something I need to see what the hoopla is all about. :)
I personally am sold on Ren Wax due to the story behind it. The fact that museums will apply it on fine artwork gives me some piece of mind.

The reason beyond aesthetics to have tried it in the first place was my old system for preserving for storage was to wipe my gun down with a silicone cloth, effective but a little messy.

By applying the Ren Wax you not only eliminate the fingerprints that the silicone finish or any other petroleum product will produce but the clean up after a day at the range is cut down significantly. It all makes sense in the end for both preservation and maintenance. It will also and certainly not the least important help repel any moisture. This M15-2 was beautiful to begin with but here you see the results of 1 coat of Ren Wax and maybe 15 minutes time invested.
 

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. . . JPW contains both paraffin and carnauba wax, at least the latter is known to be acidic or to become acidic overtime. . .

So that is why my cars eventually rust out!!!!!:D For many car enthusiasts, there is no better wax than carnuba, so why doesn't it ruin paint over time??

Even though I am not from Missouri, you need to show me.
 
Gary. I also prefer carnauba wax on cars, or any painted metal that see's weather. I use it on my Porsche 356. I would not use RW on my car, cost considerations aside. Think long term effects like curators have to. Not today, next year or even ten years from now, but essentially perpetuity.
 
I had read somewhere that the Ren seals the oils in the pores of the metal so no rust can form. They were saying do not degrease. Theo




In an article Doug Wicklund senior curator at the NRA's National Firearms Museum, recommends using a Micro-Crystalline Wax (Renaissance) on firearms that you are not going to use for a while as the best preservative treatment.

He also recommends cleaning with a solvent to remove dirt and contaminates prior to waxing.
 
A solvent like CLP. I think he is probably saying contaminate stuff like dirt and water (but in all honesty i have no idea). I shoot my guns so wouldnt take light oils off to wax.
 
Yall have convinced me. I do believe ill stop at the store and pick of some Johnson wax and see how it looks on my revolvers. Thanks for all the excellent information guys.
 
OK...all the chemistry stuff if making my eyes cross. I'll ask the dumb question on application. I guess after cleaning and wiping down the object, then apply the paste wax or do you have to completely remove any oil residue first?

Now back to the chemistry debate. Thanks.

While reading someone posted at how to, so degrease first. Thanks
 
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