Nickel Luger?

Hola.
Me gustaria comentar que el nombre correcto de la pistola es Parabellum ,que en latin significa para guerra,su creador se llamaba Georg Luger,un señor llamado Hans Tauscher fue el importador de estas armas a Estados Unidos y este señor las empezo a llamar Luger en honor a su creador,es por eso que en Estados Unidos se las llama Luger y en Europa se las llama Parabellum,que es el nombre que les puso la DWM.

Hello.
I would like to comment that the correct name of the pistol is Parabellum, which in Latin means for war, its creator was called Georg Luger, a man named Hans Tauscher was the importer of these weapons to the United States and this gentleman started calling them Luger in honor of Its creator, that is why in the United States they are called Luger and in Europe they are called Parabellum, which is the name that (was given to them by DWM.

Gracias. :)
 
For $400, I think it was a great buy. Congratulations on your purchase!

I feel differently about the chrome/nickel plated WWII guns. I grew up listening to my Dad and his friends talking about them. They are indicative of the period and I can imagine a young soldier showing off his Luger or P38 to his buddies and swapping stories.

There is a part of me that is bothered when I hear folks call guns like this "ruined". I would rather have a Luger that I could shoot, than a perfect safe queen. What do I know? I like beat up revolvers too.
 
Unfortunate so many of these war trophies such as this were nickeled or in the case of 98ks altered to hunting rifles but way back in the 50s or 60s who knew they could be big collector items.

Part of the reason they are such collector items today is that so many were removed from the collector market over the years. Scarcity is a bid price driver.
 
For $400, I think it was a great buy. Congratulations on your purchase!

I feel differently about the chrome/nickel plated WWII guns. I grew up listening to my Dad and his friends talking about them. They are indicative of the period and I can imagine a young soldier showing off his Luger or P38 to his buddies and swapping stories.

There is a part of me that is bothered when I hear folks call guns like this "ruined". I would rather have a Luger that I could shoot, than a perfect safe queen. What do I know? I like beat up revolvers too.
Exactly how I feel too. Give me two (or more) shooters over a safe queen any day. I've sold the only safe queens I had and used the money to buy multiple shooters.
 
Well, call me a sucker, but I went ahead and bought it. Paid $400 OTD - and the seller picked up the $25 BGC/transfer fee. It is an all numbers matching specimen as far as I can tell - frame, barrel, receiver, extractor, safety bar are all matching numbered. Under the frame serial number in front of the trigger guard is what appears to be the lower-case letter "b" in cursive (see photo below).

The whole gun is nickel plated (not chromed) and seems to have been pretty well done, just done a long time ago. It has seen some significant wear since then, resulting in the nickle wearing through and peeling a little on some of the high spots, like the muzzle, the raised ridge outline on the sides of the rear portion of the receiver, and on the aluminum base of the magazine. Interestingly enough the base is also stamped with a 4-digit (serial?) number (see photo below). What does that make it? Military issue? Contemporary with the gun?

It has the GESICHERT marking under the safety lever when in the safe position (photo attached). and the right side of the receiver has 3 stamped or rolled markings (also photo attached). It also has the GELADEN marking on the left side of the extractor (last photo).

So I think I covered all of the areas BB57 asked about - except the one about the "stock lug". I'm not exactly sure what that is referring to, unless it is the cut at the bottom of the backstrap where a stock can be attached. What kind of photos of that are needed? Without that, is there enough info posted here to fully identify it?

I haven't shot it yet, but I put some rounds in it and manually cycled it and all 8 fed and ejected beautifully. The action toggles smoothly, the magazine spring is really stiff, and the bore is mirror bright and sharp, so I'm thinking maybe this one hasn't been shot all that much. The seller's wife inherited it from her grandfather about 10 years ago, and supposedly her grandfather had purchased it a LONG time ago. How much he shot it is unknown.

So, odd as it may sound to some people, I now have one more of my grail guns. I know most people think of grail guns in terms of pristine examples, but that isn't a key point for me. I've wanted a Luger as long as I can remember but never found one that was in the range of what I considered affordable enough to buy. So now I have one.

$400 OTD is a great price, even for a "shooter". I'm not much of a collector and every firearm in my safe gets shot, so I see the value of firearms like this in terms of their representation of the type and the period of history involved. I'd much rather shoot a piece of history rather than just look at it.

-----

Your pistol is a 1914 pattern P.08 Luger. The proof marks have been polished a bit but there are clearly two Weimar era acceptance marks - one for the receiver and a second identical mark for the pistol as a whole. The third mark is a test fire proof mark, and these usually had either "Ar A4" or "WaA4" under the mark.

The pistol also has a 1921 date, and a "b" prefix military serial number. No prefix, an "a" prefix, a "b" prefix or a commercial serial in the 83900 to 89600 range are all correct for a 1920 and 1921 military and police pistols.

The pistol however does not have a Reichswehr property mark on the chamber so it is not a "Military and Police Dated, Army" but rather a "Military and Police Dated, Police" Luger.

The "Military and Police Dated, Army" pistols will bring around $2000 in excellent condition as they are a little less common than the "Military and Police Dated, Police" Lugers which bring around $1500 in excellent condition. They sell for around $400 in "poor" condition. A good restoration would probably sell for around $800.

Your pistol should have a magazine with a wrap around tin plated magazine with a wooden base. The magazine with your pistol appears to be a later 1936-42 Mauser era magazine also a wrap around tin magazine, but with an aluminum base.

In terms of shooting a P.08 Luger, the toggle link action of the P.08 has an undeserved reputation in some circles as being a "weak" design. It isn't, but it does need to have the springs replaced when they get old or wear out.

Consequently, I recommend you put new springs in it since it's been around nearly 100 years and may have never gotten a fresh set of springs.

Then once you have replaced the springs, test fire it with strips of masking tape on the shoulders of the frame where the toggle knobs come to rest. If the tape is being cut by the toggles the load is too strong for the pistol and springs. If the pistol doesn't cycle reliably the load is too weak for the pistol and springs.

The P.08 was not designed for 9mm+P ammo and +P ammo should never be used. However, most standard pressure loads in the 115-124 gr weight range should function well in it, and it's easy to verify that the load is not beating your pistol to death with the masking tape test. With a good load in the 112-124 gr range P.08s will run like well oiled sewing machines and are a real pleasure to shoot.

I also recommend not using the original magazine, especially the original spring. There are good aftermarket magazines available for shooting, and a correct, functioning magazine adds to the value of the pistol. I'd use your Mauser era magazine as trade for a Weimar or WWI era wood base magazine.

-----

This is my 1914 pattern, 1918 dated DWM made P.08 Luger. It's a DWM made 1914 military pistol, which is about as common as it gets and they sell for around $1000 in excellent condition, although the holster that came with it was work about $300 all by itself.

On this side you can see the later style DWM "USS" acceptance mark followed by the Imperial Army proof mark.

092AAD81-D7E9-4DCA-B240-0B8DEFB19BC9_zpsr9vtmvk1.jpg
 
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Thanks for the updated info BB57.
Sounds like the consensus is that I did just fine at $400. That's great to know. Value for my money is a primary consideration for my firearms purchases, though in this case nostalgic emotion & general desire were also significant factors in the purchase.

I remember seeing and drooling over the Stoeger 22LR Lugers advertised in Popular Mechanics when I was a kid. I bought one of those a couple of years ago out of nostalgia. Finding an affordable REAL Luger that I can shoot and enjoy is the ultimate fulfillment of my childhood lust after one of these ultra-cool pistols.
 
Unfortunate so many of these war trophies such as this were nickeled or in the case of 98ks altered to hunting rifles but way back in the 50s or 60s who knew they could be big collector items.

I have seen several nickel plated 1911 A1 .45s that were done after world war Two. Remember that there were a lot of guns brought back after the war and they were inexpensive and plentiful in the post war years. I guess it was a desire to "make it look special" that prompted gun guys to mess with these guns.

A lot of .45s were accurized by gunsmiths. Rear sights off of S & Ws were mounted on old military pistols. Trigger jobs, barrel upgrades. There was an entire cottage industry created by shooters interested in making a weapon of war into an accurate target pistol. Today Ed Brown, Les Baer and Wilson make .45s
in-house which are customs. But back in the day, a used .45 sold for $125 and you could order all kinds of upgrades.

Just part of the times and the fun of handgunning. I enjoy reading some of the handgunning books which were written by Jeff Cooper and Keith. It was a great time, not like today with all the anti gun bias.
 
Op,

Before you load up and hit the range, please check the toggle axle which is the round part you see when the toggle is up. The Luger was always a hand fitted weapon, and the s/n stamps didn't get put on till the assembler was totally satisfied with precision fit and function.

Back when I was into Lugers the toggle axle was the most frequent part replaced, because of wear on the original, and every attempt known to man to "restamp" or "renumber" the left side of the toggle axle was obvious as to different fonts, different size, or sometimes missing but always with some story.

You got a shooter at a very attractive price, but if the toggle can't "toggle" smoothly it may well be worse than a jam-o-matic if it hangs up short of battery.

I only caution because of the after factory nickel plating and you thought that all parts were plated, so check it out that 1) the axle is stamped with last 2 digits of the s/n, 2) the font appears to be same height and in line with the side plate font and line-up, and 3) it functions smooth and even through full stroke.

If all good to go...........enjoy that $400 buck shooter....they are a natural pointer for me at least and a treat to shoot, especially if you have a 1911A1 to shoot along with it.
 
I had a WWII vet show me his Nickel plated Luger about 10 years ago, it was a numbers matching commercial model he brought back. He said there was a lot of trading going on in Europe, he was certain it was nickle plated when he got it, the fellow that collected it claimed it came from a "German Officer" he also had a small caplock single shot pistol that was nicely made. I was interested in buying it so I inquired at that and all the experts on Lugers advised that they were never nickel plated from the factory.

Commissioned officers bought their own guns, so they had commercial guns. Any story of vet bring back-guns taken from Wehrmacht officers that have WaA markings are questionable.
 
Nickel plate jobs usually done for show such as on war souveniers don't take close tolerances into consideration.
Generally not much of a problem on most military weapons, but the Luger and a few others are close fitted and the build up on part to part tolerance can cause some problems.

Check those mating surfaces closely and you'll probably see the nickel worn from them as it is pushed off those surfaces so the parts can work as they should. Other parts may still be loaded with nickel plate and causing some sluggish action.

Good advise given to replace the springs.
Including the mainspring which isn't as easy as most. But take your time and walk thru it. Wear eye protection. Get standard weight springs. No xtra power stuff needed.
Perhaps the Happy Plating Co did the springs as well,,who knows.

Switch out and replace the firing pin spring, trigger spring and the extractor spring.,,all coil.

The ejector is it's own flat spring and already nickeled.
It's probably fine as-is.
Taking that out involves flexing it outward beyond the outside of the right side of the frame and then tapping it forward out of it's dovetail socket. Many have been broken being flexed too far/farther than needed to remove.
You are not going to replace it anyway if it's working and a 'spring kit' isn't going to supply you with a new one.
It would be removed only if already broken, if the pistol was being restored, or if the nickel finish was to be removed from it's surface for appearance sake.

Same for the small flat spring inside that powers the hold open.
It comes out easily enough but a slight twist when doing so can break it.
If it works fine,,I'd leave it alone,,nickeled or not unless you get into a restoration.

MegGar magazines work nicely and are very affordable. I use them in most all my Lugers and keep the originals aside.
They have plastic bases in them but you can buy repro wooden Luger magazine bases and switch them. That'll give the mag the correct look at least when inserted.

For $400 , looks like a lot of matching #'s and an excl't bore,,that one would have been on the way home with me too!

BTW, if you want to leave the firing pin down on the empty chamber and relieve the F-P spring tension,,,
*** on an Empty Chamber Only....Magazine removed ***
Pull the toggle all the way back,,then still holding on to the toggle,,let it go forward slowly to a point about 1/8" just before the breech block is closed.
You will feel a slight resistance to letting the toggle down at that near closing point (that is the sear engaging the firing pin to hold it in the cocked position).
At that point of resistance,,pull and hold back on the trigger while still holding on to the toggle and then allow the toggle and breech block to close gently all the way down.
The firing pin will now be down/uncocked and it's spring relaxed.
 
Op,

Before you load up and hit the range, please check the toggle axle which is the round part you see when the toggle is up. The Luger was always a hand fitted weapon, and the s/n stamps didn't get put on till the assembler was totally satisfied with precision fit and function.

Back when I was into Lugers the toggle axle was the most frequent part replaced, because of wear on the original, and every attempt known to man to "restamp" or "renumber" the left side of the toggle axle was obvious as to different fonts, different size, or sometimes missing but always with some story.

You got a shooter at a very attractive price, but if the toggle can't "toggle" smoothly it may well be worse than a jam-o-matic if it hangs up short of battery.

I only caution because of the after factory nickel plating and you thought that all parts were plated, so check it out that 1) the axle is stamped with last 2 digits of the s/n, 2) the font appears to be same height and in line with the side plate font and line-up, and 3) it functions smooth and even through full stroke.

If all good to go...........enjoy that $400 buck shooter....they are a natural pointer for me at least and a treat to shoot, especially if you have a 1911A1 to shoot along with it.

Thanks for the tips.
The toggle axle is numbered to the gun (38) though the 8 is so faint it is barely visible in person and you can only see traces of the lower edge of it in the photo below. It operates smoothly and doesn't appear to have any significant sloppiness or looseness at the axle.

I am also posting pictures of the stock mounting lug, just for giggles since BB57 asked about it earlier.
 

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Nickel plate jobs usually done for show such as on war souveniers don't take close tolerances into consideration.
Generally not much of a problem on most military weapons, but the Luger and a few others are close fitted and the build up on part to part tolerance can cause some problems.

Check those mating surfaces closely and you'll probably see the nickel worn from them as it is pushed off those surfaces so the parts can work as they should. Other parts may still be loaded with nickel plate and causing some sluggish action.

Good advise given to replace the springs.
Including the mainspring which isn't as easy as most. But take your time and walk thru it. Wear eye protection. Get standard weight springs. No xtra power stuff needed.
Perhaps the Happy Plating Co did the springs as well,,who knows.

Switch out and replace the firing pin spring, trigger spring and the extractor spring.,,all coil.

The ejector is it's own flat spring and already nickeled.
It's probably fine as-is.
Taking that out involves flexing it outward beyond the outside of the right side of the frame and then tapping it forward out of it's dovetail socket. Many have been broken being flexed too far/farther than needed to remove.
You are not going to replace it anyway if it's working and a 'spring kit' isn't going to supply you with a new one.
It would be removed only if already broken, if the pistol was being restored, or if the nickel finish was to be removed from it's surface for appearance sake.

Same for the small flat spring inside that powers the hold open.
It comes out easily enough but a slight twist when doing so can break it.
If it works fine,,I'd leave it alone,,nickeled or not unless you get into a restoration.

MegGar magazines work nicely and are very affordable. I use them in most all my Lugers and keep the originals aside.
They have plastic bases in them but you can buy repro wooden Luger magazine bases and switch them. That'll give the mag the correct look at least when inserted.

For $400 , looks like a lot of matching #'s and an excl't bore,,that one would have been on the way home with me too!

BTW, if you want to leave the firing pin down on the empty chamber and relieve the F-P spring tension,,,
*** on an Empty Chamber Only....Magazine removed ***
Pull the toggle all the way back,,then still holding on to the toggle,,let it go forward slowly to a point about 1/8" just before the breech block is closed.
You will feel a slight resistance to letting the toggle down at that near closing point (that is the sear engaging the firing pin to hold it in the cocked position).
At that point of resistance,,pull and hold back on the trigger while still holding on to the toggle and then allow the toggle and breech block to close gently all the way down.
The firing pin will now be down/uncocked and it's spring relaxed.

I can't tell if the nickel job was just done by someone who knew their stuff or if it has worn off the mating friction surfaces, but everything seems to work smoothly with good solid spring resistance but no appreciable drag.

I'm going to shoot it and see how it functions with a variety of light target ammo - including some powder puff reloads - before I start doing any tinkering with it, including replacing any of the springs. I'm a big believer in the old "if it ain't broke" philosophy.

From your directions on how to take the tension of the FP spring, I take it that this design is one that is not OK to be dry fired?
 
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I'm a big believer in the old "if it ain't broke" philosophy. From your directions on how to take the tension of the FP spring, I take it that this design is one that is OK to be dry fired?

No,you should never dry fire a Luger. It’s a good idea to release the pressure from the FP. And when it comes to springs for these, it may function fine with the old ones in it, until It doesn’t, and the firing pins breaks because of the old springs. And if it’s all matching numbers, the firing pin will be numbered too (and a hand fitted part IIRC). You can’t go wrong replacing the springs.
 
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No,you should never dry fire a Luger. It’s a good idea to release the pressure from the FP. And when it comes to springs for these, it may function fine with the old ones in it, until It doesn’t, and the firing pins breaks because of the old springs. And if it’s all matching numbers, the firing pin will be numbered too (and a hand fitted part IIRC). You can’t go wrong replacing the springs.
Sorry, I left out the word NOT - as in NOT OK to dry fire. I corrected my post...

The FIRING PIN is numbered? Seriously? Holy Moly! Is there anything they DIDN'T number on these guns? LOL...
Guess I'm going to have to get a set of instructions on disassembly/assembly and order a set of springs. What is the best source for a spring set? Wolff?
 
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Sorry, I left out the word NOT - as in NOT OK to dry fire. I corrected my post...

The FIRING PIN is numbered? Seriously? Holy Moly! Is there anything they DIDN'T number on these guns? LOL...

Well, actually, they didn't number the coil springs! :D
 
I used to get spring sets from Wolff.

The firing pin comes out very easily. TD the pistol and remove the breechblock and toggle assembly from the upper.
You can see the rear of the firing pin guide in the back of the breech block. It has a screwdriver type slot in it.
Take a screw driver that fits that slot (the orig Luger disassembly & loading tool was made for this, nicknamed a 'Skate key' by some for it's shape)) and engage the slot,,push in on the firing pin guide against it's spring tension and rotate it 1/4 turn.
That will unlock the pin guide from the breech block and allow it to back out of the block along with the FP itself & it's coil spring.

The FP will be ser#'d. Check it over. The flat edge that lays to the left side when installed is the sear edge. Make sure it's clean and sharp,,no gunsmith alterations for a 'hair trigger' ect.
Check the tip for damage,,the normal stuff. Clean to pin off and clean out the breech. Reinstall with the new spring in place. Insert, push in and turn the guide 1/4 turn to lock it in place. .All set for battle,.

Dry firing a Luger isn't a real good idea. I don't recommend dry firing any firearm if you can avoid it.

You can check over the sear bar on the left side of the upper. It has the opposing sear edge that engages the firing pin and holds it in the cocked position. It comes out of the upper easily by slipping it out from under the sear bar spring.

The side plate with it's L shaped sideplate bar is what transfers the rearward motion of the trigger pull to the left side of the pistol then upward,, and then to the right,, to press the sear bar to release the firing pin.
Not a real good set up for getting a target gun pull, but many Lugers have been tuned to get a nice pull. Others have been ruined in attempts to do so.
You quite often find the L shaped sideplate bar altered, filed on, bent, ect in attempts to better the trigger pull.
It's a service pistol,,accept it for what it is. Trying to make it into a Woodsman can make it dangerous to handle as well as expensive to make right again.

Trigger, safety, safety bar, sear bar, sideplate, TD lever, FP, mag release ect,,they are all ser#d

Have fun exploring your Luger..
 
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Someone mentioned not dry firing a Luger and also that it's a good idea to de cock it for storage. What I didn't see was a description of 'how".

You can do that by carefully clearing the pistol first, and then while pointing it in a safe direction, lift the toggle up slightly to the "pause" you'll feel, and then pull the trigger, at which point the toggle will get pushed back into battery.

In effect, you are putting the firing pin in its full forward position and resting it against the striker, so when it is released by the trigger it just pushes the firing pin and toggle closed with no impact on the toggle or the firing pin.
 
Someone mentioned not dry firing a Luger and also that it's a good idea to de cock it for storage. What I didn't see was a description of 'how".

See post #51, although I do it like you described, but I go just a touch past the pause you mention.
 
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