OP
Stripped screw removal ****( SEE Post 14 )*****
- Thread starter Narragansett
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If it stripped steel, it will strip epoxy.
sparkyvega
Member
I do NOT use an electric / battery drill (motor*) or other power driver when I have to use an E-Z Out or similar. I prefer to use a T-handle tap wrench. (I prefer to use a tap wrench with taps as well!)
As with a previous reply, I have had success using an oversized Torx bit to remove Allen screws.
However, if it’s new and you can substantiate that, I would recommend that it be sent to Ruger. They will fix it properly, or replace it.
Sometimes I have had to suppress my irascible manly instincts that tell me that I can fix anything - and let the manufacturer do it. I know it’s tough, but I can attest that it is possible! Unfortunately, during the return period, you will have to do without the beloved implement, and I don’t like to have to do that either. But it’s for the best!
Hex (Allen) fasteners can be frustrating. I wish manufacturers would switch to Torx fasteners. It seems like the smaller the fastener, the more likely it is that the head will strip.
* I use the term “drill motor“ to differentiate between a drill, which is the item that causes a hole to be made, and a drill motor, which is a device that turns a drill.
As with a previous reply, I have had success using an oversized Torx bit to remove Allen screws.
However, if it’s new and you can substantiate that, I would recommend that it be sent to Ruger. They will fix it properly, or replace it.
Sometimes I have had to suppress my irascible manly instincts that tell me that I can fix anything - and let the manufacturer do it. I know it’s tough, but I can attest that it is possible! Unfortunately, during the return period, you will have to do without the beloved implement, and I don’t like to have to do that either. But it’s for the best!
Hex (Allen) fasteners can be frustrating. I wish manufacturers would switch to Torx fasteners. It seems like the smaller the fastener, the more likely it is that the head will strip.
* I use the term “drill motor“ to differentiate between a drill, which is the item that causes a hole to be made, and a drill motor, which is a device that turns a drill.
"....The last one, has a stripped Allen hex head. I have no idea of the condition of the threads....."
If the screw is securely seated in it's hole AND is not damaged appearance wise .... and you have no intention of removing it for any reason/use, then I would simply leave it as-is.
If you go through the process of removing the screw by any of the means suggested, what then?
You will only want to then replace the screw with another.
That will give you the same appearance as what you have now,, will it not?
IF the head of the screw, it's allen socket, is chewed up from being stripped out by the wrench and unsightly, then I would remove it just for appearance sake and replace it.
I would first try your idea of epoxying the end of an Allen wrench into the stripped screw and see if that works in removing it.
If not then the small left hand twist drill should do it by grabbing inside the allen socket and spinning it out.
If the screw is securely seated in it's hole AND is not damaged appearance wise .... and you have no intention of removing it for any reason/use, then I would simply leave it as-is.
If you go through the process of removing the screw by any of the means suggested, what then?
You will only want to then replace the screw with another.
That will give you the same appearance as what you have now,, will it not?
IF the head of the screw, it's allen socket, is chewed up from being stripped out by the wrench and unsightly, then I would remove it just for appearance sake and replace it.
I would first try your idea of epoxying the end of an Allen wrench into the stripped screw and see if that works in removing it.
If not then the small left hand twist drill should do it by grabbing inside the allen socket and spinning it out.
Well, unless it has a tool steel Allen key epoxyed in it that won't budge or broken off.
AJ
US Veteran
What are you going to do?
.38SuperMan
Member
My dad gave me his nickel 4” M29 forty years ago. A few years ago I removed the target stocks and was going to remove the side plate but discovered the larger flat head screw under the stock just rotated when trying to remove it. I’m not sure whether it’s stripped or broken off but thought about using s small drop of super glue on my screwdriver blade and gently removing the screw. When I get it out I’ll just soak it in acetone to remove the glue. I think that will work and could work for you. Just be certain you don’t get the glue in the threads and glue the screw in.
About Ruger, I’m going around with them right now. Unofficially they warrant their products for life but just try to get a part to fix a problem. My wife’s Wrangler had the button on the ejector rod snap off. It appears to be cat pot metal and broke off at the range. It also appears after researching this that it a common problem.
This happened six weeks ago and when I called they said they’d send the entire assembly at no charge. Wow, that’s great. The catch, almost 6 weeks and still no part and I e called them 2 more times. The last caller almost two weeks ago said she’d try to get it out but shipping was backed up. Backed up 6 weeks? Come on! You’ve got a serious problem then.
In my research and finding others with the same problem, one person waited 3 months for the part. So I found Brownells sells an aftermarket ejector so I ordered one. It’s on the way!
I’ve been a customer of Rugers since the early 80’s and have had good luck until a couple of years ago when I bought a new Blackhawk 357/9mm that was out of time from the factory. I now have reservations about Ruger and will look closer at other options before buying their products.
About Ruger, I’m going around with them right now. Unofficially they warrant their products for life but just try to get a part to fix a problem. My wife’s Wrangler had the button on the ejector rod snap off. It appears to be cat pot metal and broke off at the range. It also appears after researching this that it a common problem.
This happened six weeks ago and when I called they said they’d send the entire assembly at no charge. Wow, that’s great. The catch, almost 6 weeks and still no part and I e called them 2 more times. The last caller almost two weeks ago said she’d try to get it out but shipping was backed up. Backed up 6 weeks? Come on! You’ve got a serious problem then.
In my research and finding others with the same problem, one person waited 3 months for the part. So I found Brownells sells an aftermarket ejector so I ordered one. It’s on the way!
I’ve been a customer of Rugers since the early 80’s and have had good luck until a couple of years ago when I bought a new Blackhawk 357/9mm that was out of time from the factory. I now have reservations about Ruger and will look closer at other options before buying their products.
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Allen screws can usually be removed by driving a torx but into them. If that slips I go to a square drive bit. I normally lock them into my mill vice and chuck to provide downward pressure.
Kp321
Member
Ding, Ding, Ding. That is the proper approach. Brownells has quality Torx bits in all sizes for a reasonable price. Buy an assortment and one will undoubtedly work.
AJ
US Veteran
Another trick I learned from our metalsmiths was to tap on the butt end of the screwdriver as you try to turn the screw. Also try to twist in the tightening position of the screw, this will sometimes break it loose. Our metalsmiths took out a fair amount of stuck screws on the aircraft. Drilling out and useing E-Z Outs were a last resort.
If the screw won't budge with the epoxyed in placed in place wrench, then just heat the other end of the wrench and it'll soften the glue and you can remove the wrench from the screw.
The wrench won't break off in the stripped out socket hole before the epoxy gives it up. The glue is the only thing enabling a grip in the now oversize, mostly round socket hole.
This method is just to see if the screw is loose enough to come out with just a little help.
The attachment with glue of the allen-wrench to stripped socket head is minimal at best. But worth an easy try before IMO before
getting out the drills and easy outs.
For stripped allen socket cap screws, etc., I usually try a torx driver bit. Find one that's a little larger than the hex bit and tap it in. You don't want the torx bit to be loose. The sharp star tips make their own grip grooves when tapped in with a hammer. I have a 97% able to be removed record, the other 3% is total failure on tiny stainless cap screws when the head breaks off.
OP
Remove the trigger, hammer, springs, etc., and send the barrel and frame.
Let them figure it out.
Or, try your epoxy idea.
It’s already buggered up, so you’re not gonna hurt it.
Let them figure it out.
Or, try your epoxy idea.
It’s already buggered up, so you’re not gonna hurt it.
AJ
US Veteran
3/16" drive does not strike me as being very strong when needing to torque something such as a stuck screw. Go to Harbor Freight/Lowes/Home Depot and buy a set of 1/4" drive tips. Usually about $10.00 or so.
VincentW
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This is sound advice. If you've ever wrestled with a stubborn screw, you know how frustrating it can be. Fortunately, there’s a simple method that works most of the time. Start by taking the drill end of the extractor and while pressing it against the screw head, reverse it real slowly—this trick can back the screw out about 90% of the time. If that doesn’t do the job, switch to drilling it out in forward mode, and then use the extractor side to finish the process. The screw itself might be ruined, but at least you’ll have a reference to compare when picking up a replacement at the hardware store or ordering a new one. A little patience and the right technique can save you a lot of hassle!
I have this set of 1/4" drive Torx bits, you can see the twist damage from a really stuck Allen.
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I think you're describing a fillister head screw. It works for them too. You may want to drill a pilot hole first
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