Problems with a Lee Crimp Die

M

MarTay6

Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2013
Messages
149
Reaction score
53
Location
Beautiful Maine!
I am having an issue reloading .44 mag ammo. I'm using brand new Starline brass, running it through the sizing die before loading. I'm using all Lee dies and Classic Press. The bullets are .430 Missouri Bullet Co. 240 gr Keith powder coated bullets.
What's happening, is when I run the bullets into the separate crimp die, they are grinding as they go into the die, and then again when they come out. You can see corresponding bright shiny rings where the grinding sound compresses the brass on the grease grooves.
Initially I thought the powder coating was increasing the bullet size enough to be causing the problem- so I bought a Lee .430" Sizing die.
The bullets advertise at .430", I measure them at .43005", and after running them through a Lee Sizing Die measure .43000".
Attached is a picture.
Any ideas what might be causing this?
 

Attachments

  • 44_Mag.jpg
    44_Mag.jpg
    99.2 KB · Views: 231
Register to hide this ad
Is it a Lee Factory Crimp Die?

If so...it's resizing the entire thing as you press it into the crimp die.

My Lee 44 crimp die is a "factory crimp" one and it was giving me all kinds of headaches, eventually I pressed out the carbide resize ring and *POOF, no more problems.
 
The Shiny "rings" are from the bullet size and wall thickness are together too thick. Starline if famous for Getting it Right. So your bullets MAY be over size OR NOT. I don't see there being a safety issue, just cosmetic.

Ivan
 
If you've read the handloading introduction in the front of at least one loading manual and understand it, and are doing everything right, you don't need the Lee die. You may need to do some fine tuning using your regular die set.
 
"I am having an issue reloading .44 mag ammo. I'm using brand new Starline brass, running it through the sizing die before loading"..........


I don't understand why you are sizing "New Brass" from a factory

before it is even used??

That might be the first problem ?
 
Last edited:
The FCD is needed for boolits that don't have a cannelure or a crimping groove. You need to crimp using the bullet seating die. You have an extra step that isn't necessary.

Having said that I use Lee FCDs for a lot of cartridges and it works awesomely well. OTOH, I have seen more bad loadings when using it improperly.
 
rockquarry said:
If you've read the handloading introduction in the front of at least one loading manual and understand it, and are doing everything right, you don't need the Lee die. You may need to do some fine tuning using your regular die set.
Click to expand...

That's true but some people like to seat and crimp in separate steps. It saves adjusting seat/crimp dies with different bullets from different manufactures who don't size the same. Also some cases may not be the same length so that also causes problems. If you use range brass like I do it's hard to keep a seater/crimp die in adjustment. I use a LFCD on all my auto ammo.

If one were to use the same brass and same bullets consistently a seater/crimp die is adequate. I have RCBS 3 set Cowboy dies for my 32 and they work great, but I use nothing but Starline brass and bullets from one mfr.

I'm not seeing an issue here. Spray your cases with Hornady One Shot before you crimp and drive on.

Hornady One Shot Case Lube 10oz Aerosol
 
Last edited:
Mixed brass with an unknown history of loads and number of loadings will work, and sometimes almost as well as brass of the same brand and/or lot, but it will never work better. Sort of a potential disadvantage from the start.

When you're seating bullets using mixed brass, it's easy to feel the differences in case wall thicknesses and the amount of varying pressure required to seat bullets.

I also prefer to seat and crimp in two steps, but my results in comparing two steps vs. one step have been inconclusive with regard to accuracy.
 
Last edited:
I had that same thing happen with a Redding Competition Pro seating die .44-40. I removed it and used a .44 Mag seater with no problems. I called Redding and talked to a knowledgeable rep who understood the issue and offered to open it up if I sent it back. I did, but have not used it since I got it back. I assumed that the tight die body was intended to be used with jacketed bullets, in which case it probably would have worked fine. I was using .428 lead coated MBC bullets and it was scraping a ring of lead when seating.

I would never seat and crimp lead bullets in the same die. Most of the time is scrapes some lead from the bullet before the crimp is applied.
 
Nevada Ed said:
"I am having an issue reloading .44 mag ammo. I'm using brand new Starline brass, running it through the sizing die before loading"..........


I don't understand why you are sizing "New Brass" from a factory

before it is even used??

That might be the first problem ?
Click to expand...

Starline recommends sizing new virgin brass before reloading. I've done it both ways and it is easier to size it in the 550B than to bypass the sizing die to go to the powder die.
 
I would suggest you drop the FCD for lead coated bullets especially.
Try using the regular seating die to seat and crimp in one shot, works for roll crimps though I don't do it for taper crimps.
It helps a lot if your brass is the same length, which yours should be.
When they're done just make sure they drop nice and free into your cylinder. If they're a bit tight, try a little less crimp.
 
As far as running new Starline brass through a sizing die to start with what could possibly be wrong with that???? All I'm doing is making sure the brass is uniform and meeting specs! It'd be the same when reloading the first time...
I believe in ensuring everything is correct and uniform.
 
MarTay6 said:
As far as running new Starline brass through a sizing die to start with what could possibly be wrong with that???? All I'm doing is making sure the brass is uniform and meeting specs! It'd be the same when reloading the first time...
I believe in ensuring everything is correct and uniform.
Click to expand...

I also size new brass-it's amazing that new brass is sometimes not all the same size.
 
The combination of coated bullet and case wall thickness is too large for the die. Simple as that. Switch to uncoated bullets or use a larger die--any other than Lee will probably work.
 
hate to ask, but it almost sounds like your brass is not getting the mouth belled enough. you are belling the mouth after sizing?
 
rockquarry said:
Mixed brass with an unknown history of loads and loadings will work, and sometimes almost as well as brass of the same brand and/or lot, but it will never work better. Sort of a potential disadvantage from the start.

When you're seating bullets using mixed brass, it's easy to feel the differences in case wall thicknesses and the amount of varying pressure required to seat bullets.

I also prefer to seat and crimp in two steps, but my results in comparing two steps vs. one step have been inconclusive with regard to accuracy.
Click to expand...

I can feel the difference when I bell the mouth. There just isn't the required tension to seat a bullet in some brass. I just toss those. I suspect I pick up some brass that is used up.
 
LostintheOzone said:
I can feel the difference when I bell the mouth. There just isn't the required tension to seat a bullet in some brass. I just toss those. I suspect I pick up some brass that is used up.
Click to expand...

Regarding range pickup brass.... I've used it, too, but not recently. A good friend that oversees and competes in "combat" (that may not be the right term, I'm not a competitor) matches at our gun club told me that a lot of competitors use worn, "tired" brass and then leave it on the ground. No telling how many times it had been loaded. That's sorry brass to reload and could be hazardous. .223 or 9mm brass that's been loaded many times may look no different than brass that's been loaded only a couple of times.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top