getting primers properly seated

rhodesengr · Jul 21, 2021

I have an RCBS hand primer and am loading 38special.

I have another thread about light strikes and some rounds not going bang. It was mentioned that my primers may not be properly seated (several mil below flush).

What are the tips and tricks to get primers fully inserted. Is it just a matter of a hard squeeze on the primer tool? Do you have to check every primer?

Thanks in advance.

AlHunt · Jul 21, 2021

rhodesengr said:
I have an RCBS hand primer and am loading 38special.

I have another thread about light strikes and some rounds not going bang. It was mentioned that my primers may not be properly seated (several mil below flush).

What are the tips and tricks to get primers fully inserted. Is it just a matter of a hard squeeze on the primer tool? Do you have to check every primer?

Thanks in advance.

I predict a lengthy thread about best practices here ...

For me, I like to prime on the press. Once it's set up, all the primers are at the exact same seating depth. I like simplicity and consistency.

I do occasionally hand prime and it's no problem to run my finger over each case as it comes off the tool. What you will find is that mixed headstamps will have varying pressure required to seat the primers. So you really can't go 100% by "feel".

Experience will be the best teacher.

rhodesengr · Jul 21, 2021

AlHunt said:
I predict a lengthy thread about best practices here ...

That would be great as I have a lot to learn and enjoy the discussion.

AlHunt said:
For me, I like to prime on the press.

At this point I do not have a progressive press. I am using the MEC Marksman which I like and was able to get Horady die set.

The Marksmen does not have priming capability so unless I get a dedicated priming press (is there such a thing?) I need to use the hand primer. The guys I talked at my club said they use hand primers. I have made about 200 rounds so far and really didn't pay much attention to how hard I squeezed the hand-primer. Not sure what else I could do but squeeze harder.

cracker57 · Jul 21, 2021

so at this point we don't know if its light strikes or a problem with primer seating.
have you tried to fire the light strikes a second time, did they go bang the second time?
have you shot factory flavor out of this gun? any light strikes with those?
has anyone changed anything with this gun, springs or anything?

Maurice H · Jul 21, 2021

There is no such thing as seating a primer too deep. Seat firmly until they stop. If you have any adjustability in your priming device re: seating depth, ensure full-depth setting.

rockquarry · Jul 21, 2021

Use a good quality priming tool and you can go by "feel" when seating. You can do it with mixed brass, but it's more difficult. Most every brass has a different feel.

ReloadforFun · Jul 21, 2021

The best priming tool is the RCBS Automatic Priming Tool. It is bench mounted and gives good "feel" while seating and is fairly fast.

"Completely seated" normally has the primer some 0.003 - 0.005 inches below flush with the case.

Primers can be seated too deep, but not seated deep enough is the more common problem.

Greyman50 · Jul 21, 2021

Having been reloading since the 70’s I have developed my procedures, basically common sense after Reading several manuals. Good to exceptional Lighting is a Must, developing and Maintaining a logical procedure of each process. Carefully inspect each case after depriming, sizing , belling, seating new primer, charging case with powder( Very important) placing projectile in case and after seating projectile. By chance you are vision challenged, GET GLASSES. Our eyes are the number one sense God gave us . Feeling each step with a press, one will “ get the feel” of whats right and whats wrong, but takes awhile. Visually inspecting each case after each procedure is the bottom line.

Hang-Fire Hank · Jul 21, 2021

TWO OTHER THINGS

Rho....
Two other factors not mentioned:
1. Are you shooting revolvers & in DA mode? The hammer does not go back as far as SA & could produce light strikes.
2. Are you using CCI primers? They are the hardest to set off with a revolver. I save them for my SA revolvers (Blackhawks, etc.). Federal are the lightest. I use them in my lightened trigger pull Smiths in DA firing.
Hank M.

Leonard · Jul 21, 2021

For years I primed off the top of my press, seating at a constant depth below the case.

I now use an RCBS unit with the Holland perfect primer tool the depth is controlled and I have a safe primer feed rather than handling them one at a time.

gwpercle · Jul 21, 2021

rhodesengr said:
I have an RCBS hand primer and am loading 38special.

I have another thread about light strikes and some rounds not going bang. It was mentioned that my primers may not be properly seated (several mil below flush).

What are the tips and tricks to get primers fully inserted. Is it just a matter of a hard squeeze on the primer tool? Do you have to check every primer?

Thanks in advance.

Here is your answer .
With hand priming tool - this is best way to prime
1.) Get primer in seater and slide case into shell holder .
2.) Seat primer by squeezing lever until it gently bottoms out , will go no deeper .
3.) Ease up on lever and spin the case 180 degrees in the shell holder .
4.) Squeeze the lever again , firmly ... but not Magilla Gorilla hard ... you can crush a primer if you put too much muscle on it, squeeze firmly enough so you know it's all in
.5.) You are done ... the primer is fully seated , all the way in the pocket ... don't measure anything , they have to be fully seated or they will not fire .

A lot of reloaders think "Light Strike" but usually the problem is
" Primer Not Fully Seated" .
Gary

rhodesengr · Jul 21, 2021

Hang-Fire Hank said:
Rho....
Two other factors not mentioned:
1. Are you shooting revolvers & in DA mode? The hammer does not go back as far as SA & could produce light strikes.
2. Are you using CCI primers? They are the hardest to set off with a revolver. I save them for my SA revolvers (Blackhawks, etc.). Federal are the lightest. I use them in my lightened trigger pull Smiths in DA firing.
Hank M.

Yes and yes. We have discussed the FTF issue in my other thread. It is here
Light strikes with 686 Competitor

I was hoping to focus on best practices for primer seating here. I do an event that is DA. My 686 is quite new and unmodified. I have done the event twice. The first time I used CCI 500's and had no problems. The second time, I didn't have enough 500's so I used some 550's. I did not keep them separated and I had about 5 FTF's I think all but 4 fired with a second hit. So probably it was just the 550's that were causing the problem but I can't be sure. However, the gun is a 686 so it should shoot 357's and those would have 550's if I was using CCI. It was suggested that perhaps my primers were not fully seated so that is why I started this second thread because primer seating is more of a reloading issue. I have lots of tips in the other thread about springs and firing pins. Also about using Federal primers which I now have. So next month I will use pure Federal primed rounds and we'll see what happens. I have a longer firing pin on order and I may put that in for next month. I have shot some commercial rounds but not very many. I had no FTF's with those. My event requires unjacketed rounds and the rare times I have seen 38sp in stock, it has been mostly jacketed. So I had to start making my own rounds with LRN type bullets. Regardless of spring force and firing pin issues, I still need to do the best job possible making my rounds.

Johnnu2 · Jul 21, 2021

I seat them by feel in my RCBS hand primer tool.....When I feel them 'bottom-out, I'm done. I only use 'step 2' if they don't go off.
Step 2: Try firing a second time....

J.

ImprovedModel56Fan · Jul 21, 2021

Reread post #11 (gwpercle) and ignore the others. Some of them are wrong.

rhodesengr · Jul 21, 2021

Johnnu2 said:
I seat them by feel in my RCBS hand primer tool.....When I feel them 'bottom-out, I'm done. I only use 'step 2' if they don't go off.
Step 2: Try firing a second time....

J.

The event is an timed/speed event with 18 rounds per stage (two reloads). So FTF's add a lot of time plus I feel like a failure when my rounds don't go off

So Step 2 isn't really an option for me. I need to improve the reliability. Now I have learned than primer seating can be an issue so I will be looking for that.

H Richard · Jul 21, 2021

It is an acquired "feel" to properly seat a primer. I have used a Lee Auto Prime hand primer for 30+ years and you get a good feel. I have never had a light hit problem with any firearm. I also load my volume loads on a Dillon 550, ypu set it to the end of the seating stroke and it will be fully seated.

Krogen · Jul 21, 2021

ReloadforFun said:
The best priming tool is the RCBS Automatic Priming Tool. It is bench mounted and gives good "feel" while seating and is fairly fast.

"Completely seated" normally has the primer some 0.003 - 0.005 inches below flush with the case.

Primers can be seated too deep, but not seated deep enough is the more common problem.

I agree with ReloadforFun. I've used the Automatic Priming Tool since the mid 80's. It's fast and easy to feel the primer bottom in the pocket. A fixed depth isn't the answer. Bottoming the primer is.

GypsmJim · Jul 21, 2021

rockquarry said:
Use a good quality priming tool and you can go by "feel" when seating. You can do it with mixed brass, but it's more difficult. Most every brass has a different feel.

That's the correct answer.

After reloading tens of thousands of rounds over the last 50 years I can honestly say I NEVER had a round not go bang. (not the same for factory ammo).

I DID have one single squib, but it was a lack of powder, and to this day I figure I must not have checked it and the powder measure didn't perform.

diyj98 · Jul 21, 2021

Put each case in your vice and give the primer a good hard wack with a hammer and punch.......

I'm joking obviously. I've alway just used my press to seat my primers. I've never had a round not go bang unless there was a problem with the firearm.

minconrevo · Jul 21, 2021

For a beginning reloader slow, safe and consistent are prime watch words. While I've been running Dillon progressives for many years I started on a RCBS single stage. It did have a primer arm tool. Getting an educated arm and practiced eye (with glasses always) takes practice.

Getting accustomed to the "feel" of a fully seated primer in mixed brass takes time; don't rush it. For a while at least, make a practice of carefully checking each primed case for proper seating. You can use a hand or bench mounted dedicated priming tool to fully seat a primer that's not quite there. Another good reason to wear safety glasses. Some will suggest that's it's okay to do the same operation to fully loaded rounds. Probably you will never have one of these go "bang" but what if.

getting primers properly seated

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