Nickel Vs Brass Cases

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I’ve found that nickel plated brass does not hold up as well as regular brass. Most of my failures have been cracks as well. I once a batch of nickel 45-70 brass that the plating was abnormally thick.
 
Nickel cases amongst the brass would bug me too! But then, I keep my brass in lots. A given lot has the same firing history and came from the same original bag of brass. I "may" be obsessive . . . .

I've had some nickel cases that lasted long enough to wear down to the underlying brass. That's not the norm, though. In general I find that nickel revolver cases split at the mouth after just a handful of reloadings.
 
Nickel cases amongst the brass would bug me too! But then, I keep my brass in lots. A given lot has the same firing history and came from the same original bag of brass. I "may" be obsessive . . . .

I've had some nickel cases that lasted long enough to wear down to the underlying brass. That's not the norm, though. In general I find that nickel revolver cases split at the mouth after just a handful of reloadings.

I tend to accumulate empty brass until I have several hundred to work with (clean, size, etc...). I don't really keep a count on loadings per case. Just pitch the cracked ones when I find them. A lot of the brass is once fired, as when I am policing up my brass, folks find out I am a reloader so they give me their once fired brass.
 
I’ve read that nickel cases wear out carbide dies much quicker than brass. How true is this? I have no idea.
 
I’ve read that nickel cases wear out carbide dies much quicker than brass. How true is this? I have no idea.

I hadn't heard that one, but do find they seem to crack easier. They sure are "purdy" though.
 
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I do separate the Brass from Nickel, however I do keep all the Nickel case's for all of my 25's & 625's, and it's really easy to identify revolver from auto ammo, and it looks good too,,,, I have been doing this for years and quite honestly I don't see a difference of life expectancy in either.

.38 brass on the other hand is a different story, have always seen more split case's in both brass and nickel, probably because there's more of them around at least there use to be back in the day.
 
I separate my nickel and brass cases before reloading.

Nickel is "slicker" to extract - which is one reason it is so commonly used for SD ammo.

But plain brass is softer than nickel plated brass, so in general, it can be resized more times without "work hardening" - which is what leads to cracking.

So plain brass cases can generally be reloaded more times than nickel plated cases in my experience.

Which is "better" depends on what you're reloading for.
 
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I think when we have a volume of experience, we can come to some reasonable conclusions but I would caution sometimes that the conclusions are not always correct, and I’ll attempt to show that.

.327 Federal is a fairly new cartridge and so it’s been in the last 10-15 years that I’ve gathered all of my experience with it. All of my brass has come from ATK, or the former ATK, which is to say that’s it has come from Speer Gold Dot and American Eagle factory ammo. And this is a 45k psi peak cartridge. With all of this modern brass and all of it from THE same source, I can tell you for certain with the ATK/Federal/Speer .327 brass, the nickel absolutely splits more than the brass. Hands down, not close.

In .38 Special I have nearly 40 years of brass and it’s whole lot of brass. As .38 Special was the first metallic I’ve ever loaded… boy, I’ve loaded a LOT of this cartridge. Many tens of thousands for sure. My R-P nickel brass is split city. My Winchester nickel .38 Special rarely splits, and I’m quite sure that my supply of each is mostly many decades old.

More than ten years ago I came in to a huge supply of S&B brass in .38 Special, non-nickel, and I can tell you that this stuff splits very easily.

I also use a good bit of .357 Magnum brass that is nickel… again, a lot of Winchester here, and much of this brass I’ve definitely had more than 20 years and it’s very rare that any of it splits.

My conclusion based on what I’ve seen is that if I were buying new brass and looking for longevity, I would pick brass over nickel if the comparison were same headstamp. But my answer changes if the offer is a great brand of nickel versus a budget brand of brass.

As for the old “wears out dies quicker…”, I can only tell you that I have quite literally used ONE single carbide sizing die for every round of .38 and .357 Magnum I have ever made, and this goes back to the fantastic summer of 1989. That’s a Lee carbide sizing die, and it’s still doing a fine job. While I cannot specifically tell you how many rounds of .38 and .357 have been through it, I do know for certain that I’m past 200,000 loaded rounds across all that I’ve made… and I have never worn out a carbide sizer from the one die maker that has the MOST dedicated legions of detractors in the history of handloading. :D
 
As in the above post, R-P nickeled seems to split a lot.
They look pretty in the scrap brass bucket which is where they go.
I had R-P 357M nickeled cases that neck split, trimmed them down to 38sp length and used them as maximum/over maximum testing, then scrapped.
My brass gets wet SS pin tumbled so used brass looks better than new brass.
 
I think when we have a volume of experience, we can come to some reasonable conclusions but I would caution sometimes that the conclusions are not always correct, and I’ll attempt to show that.

.327 Federal is a fairly new cartridge and so it’s been in the last 10-15 years that I’ve gathered all of my experience with it. All of my brass has come from ATK, or the former ATK, which is to say that’s it has come from Speer Gold Dot and American Eagle factory ammo. And this is a 45k psi peak cartridge. With all of this modern brass and all of it from THE same source, I can tell you for certain with the ATK/Federal/Speer .327 brass, the nickel absolutely splits more than the brass. Hands down, not close.

In .38 Special I have nearly 40 years of brass and it’s whole lot of brass. As .38 Special was the first metallic I’ve ever loaded… boy, I’ve loaded a LOT of this cartridge. Many tens of thousands for sure. My R-P nickel brass is split city. My Winchester nickel .38 Special rarely splits, and I’m quite sure that my supply of each is mostly many decades old.

More than ten years ago I came in to a huge supply of S&B brass in .38 Special, non-nickel, and I can tell you that this stuff splits very easily.

I also use a good bit of .357 Magnum brass that is nickel… again, a lot of Winchester here, and much of this brass I’ve definitely had more than 20 years and it’s very rare that any of it splits.

My conclusion based on what I’ve seen is that if I were buying new brass and looking for longevity, I would pick brass over nickel if the comparison were same headstamp. But my answer changes if the offer is a great brand of nickel versus a budget brand of brass.

As for the old “wears out dies quicker…”, I can only tell you that I have quite literally used ONE single carbide sizing die for every round of .38 and .357 Magnum I have ever made, and this goes back to the fantastic summer of 1989. That’s a Lee carbide sizing die, and it’s still doing a fine job. While I cannot specifically tell you how many rounds of .38 and .357 have been through it, I do know for certain that I’m past 200,000 loaded rounds across all that I’ve made… and I have never worn out a carbide sizer from the one die maker that has the MOST dedicated legions of detractors in the history of handloading. :D

Your points are very eloquently stated, and I can't add much of anything except to "like" this post...
 
I like nickel...

...because they stay purtier and shinier than brass. But nickel does indeed crack more often. I've wondered if some annealing at the mouth would help but it may negate the whole shiny thing. Not only do nickel cases split at the mouth, they crack all down the sides, and some of them 'ring' funny when you toss them in with the rest of the brass. Also nickel takes a little more effort to size than brass. It's a little harder on steel dies, but lube negates that and I doubt they hurt carbide much even without lube.
 
In my experience, nickel plated cases will suffer case mouth cracking long before a brass case will suffer a crack. Also, it is possible for tiny bits of nickel to flake off of the case mouth during resizing. Those tiny bits can remain in the sizing die and you won't notice anything until you run a plain brass case through the die and discover the resized brass case has long scratches along the sides of the case. This has been my experience, not internet lore as I started reloading well before the age of the internet. My mistakes were learned the hard way.
 
I too think it has more to do with the quality of the plating/process.
I've reloaded some S&W head stamped .38 spl from the '70's about a dozen times or more. No visible cracking. I reload using a lee classic reloaded however, maybe that makes some difference?
 
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Nickel plated brass cases...........

Having worked in Manufacturing Engineering I can tell you this about Nickel plated brass, the cracking is due to a phenomona called Hydrogen embrittlement. Nickel plating is also porous and can carry dirt into the dies thus scratching them. As far as wearing out carbide dies faster, this is definately an old wives tale, carbide is many times harder than nickel plating. Also there is no difference in the brass used in brass cases and the brass substrate of nickel plated cases, another old wives tale.
 
I believe nickel became popular because cartridges in leather belt loops were getting enough verdigris they would not chamber or had to be worked out of dump pouches with tools. Hopefully no one is keeping cartridges in leather for long periods.

My nickel cases are mainly 38 wadcutter brass, though I did end up with 50 280 Remington nickel cases.
 
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