Ever Cracked a Forcing Cone?

How common are cracked forcing cones on K-frames

  • I have owned at least one K-frame with a cracked forcing cone

    Votes: 14 10.4%
  • I have never owned ont but I have seen a K-frame with a cracked forcing cone

    Votes: 14 10.4%
  • I have never seen one in person, but I've seen photos of a K-frame with a cracked forcing cone

    Votes: 82 61.2%
  • I've never even seen photos of a K-frame with a cracked forcing cone

    Votes: 24 17.9%

  • Total voters
    134
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I've seen so many opinions on this topic, but I haven't seen a poll around here about it.

So, How many of you have actually had one of their K frame 357's experience the infamous cracked forcing cone vs. how many have actually seen one in person vs. how many have only seen pictures of one on the internet?

I know I fall into the third group - all I've ever seen is photos of them.

Of course you can select multiple answers if you have both owned, seen, and seen photos of cracked forcing cones.

So how common is this problem really?

If you have had or even seen one, tell us all about it.
 
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I have only had 1 cracked forcing cone out of at least 8 Kframes, and that was on a PPC gun, with an after market barrel, after thousands of rounds.
 
Like this one? Purchased the gun many years ago with the barrel already split at the forcing cone. Do not remember the "story" if there was one about what happened. Replaced the barrel and sold the gun off to fund another purchase.
 

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The only cracked forcing cone on a revolver I have owned was on a nickel, first-year Colt Python. Gun was supposed to be unfired when I got it and it looked it. I kept it unfired for almost 10 years before shooting it. Forcing cone split on the second box of Federal 158 grain JHP factory Magnums. The replacement barrel Colt put on (after losing the gun for a year) was sad by comparison and it went down the road.
 
The only cracked forcing cone on a revolver I have owned was on a nickel, first-year Colt Python. Gun was supposed to be unfired when I got it and it looked it. I kept it unfired for almost 10 years before shooting it. Forcing cone split on the second box of Federal 158 grain JHP factory Magnums. The replacement barrel Colt put on (after losing the gun for a year) was sad by comparison and it went down the road.

I have a feeling your Python was hiding some secrets you weren't aware of. The fact that Pythons were not offered in nickel until 1960, and the 1st year Pythons were made in '55, tells me someone may have pulled some wool over your eyes. Unless by 1st year Python, you mean 1st year nickel was offered, which was '60, although a few custom ordered ones exist from '59. That's probably why it looked unfired, as it was refinished like new to hide the extensive shooting it endured. At least it's in the past now and you sent it on down the road.

I did see one Python just a few weeks ago on GB from a big time Colt dealer with a chipped forcing cone, may have even been cracked also. It would have sold for high dollar too, was already over $2K, before it was made public as being a refinish and the forcing cone issue was pointed out. The sad part was the refinish was so obvious, as was the chip/crack, but it made the auction block anyway despite the seller being a supposed expert. Caveat Emptor guys, no matter how 'reputable' someone seems and countless others will testify for.

Back to the question at hand, I had to answer just seeing pictures online because the only K frame I have ever owned is my 17-4, and I don't think that quite applies to this topic. I would still imagine the actual numbers for K frames that were used properly and suffered a cracked forcing cone is very low. Most examples probably stem from mild to moderate abuse. In that case, any gun will eventually have failures.
 
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Some years ago I purchased a S&W M19 with a 2.5" barrel and RB-blued from a local Tennessee forum. Gun was sold "As Is" (first clue). The cylinder was difficult to open and close ? Tighten the ejector rod did not help. Finally using a bright light I discovered bottom of the forcing cone was split ! Could not locate a blued replacement 2.5" barrel but did find a SS 2.5" barrel from a forum member.. Had the SS barrel installed and sold it to a fellow that wanted a "Pinto" revolver. Lesson learn about "Sold As Is".
 
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Owned a 2" Model 10 years ago that was used to test some pretty hot reloads. It was an off-duty gun and had very little bluing left. The forcing cone cracked after about 500 +P+ 110 JHP's. Totally my fault.....put a replacement barrel on it and sold it.
 
I've seen only one cracked forcing cone..on a friends fairly new 640-1.(I know,not a K frame) First time he shot it,it was shaving lead. Instead of calling it a day,he continued to "punish" the gun and anyone standing close to him. I moved out of "range" of the fragments and implored him not to shoot it. Weeks later, he was back at the range with "new" ammo. Still shaving lead and now would not print on paper. He sent it back to S&W and got it back with a new barrel installed and a letter that told him if it happens again, STOP shooting the gun and send it to them. I believe it was out of time,and him shooting it caused the cone to crack. That's the only personal experience I've had with forcing cones gone bad.
 
I've never seen one, and I've owned a dozen or so Model 19/66's over the years. All but one were purchased used, so I have no idea what the real history of them was.

I shoot about 99% 38 Special loads in mine, so I wouldn't really expect to see any problems with them.

I do however believe it is not some kind of internet horror story. I read about the problem years ago.
 
Many years ago I had a friend who fancied himself the Roy Weatherby of handgun cartridge reloading. He had a recipe for a rip snorting .38 special load with 158 grain SJWC bullets that he developed for a nickel plated C serial number Pre-10 and a 28. He changed the bullet, and cracked the forcing cone on both guns with the modified load. He sent both guns back to the factory and had the barrels replaced.

I saw him at a funeral seven years ago, he was carrying the Pre-10; and he said he still owned the 28. He also started buying factory high performance ammo and only reloads target rounds now.
 
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I have an old model 10 that came back with a cracked forcing cone after lending it to a friend. He was shooting standard velocity 38spls in it when this happened. I re barreled it and the revolver continues to function to this day.
Jim
 
I think that letting lead build up there increases pressures. But firing very hot 125 grain .357 loads or Plus P Plus ammo is a known cause. I was told by factory reps that Plus P Plus ammo is sometimes more abusive to guns than full .357 loads.


If you work at it, you can ruin anything. One of the Ruger boards had pics of a GP-100 with a severely eroded barrel throat that had also cracked. The owner admitted to firing thouands of very hot handloads.


It's become trite to see posts on the Net about Rugers being as tough as tanks. Remember, even tanks can be destroyed.
 
I repaired two, over 20 years ago. The first was a K.38 Masterpiece, a police trade in. The forcing cone was severely leaded which I believe caused the crack. I replaced the barrel with a new one. The second was a 2" Nickel M&P from when they had half moon front sights. This was before the internet, so I had no idea of how to find a correct barrel, so I bored out the barrel and sleeved it with a piece of barrel I turned from the K .38 barrel mentioned above. I tested it with Super-Vel ammo with no problems, and returned it to the owner.
 
Why would +P loads be more abusive than full .357 loads? Because of the shorter .38 case maybe?


Yes, but not at Plus P levels. I referred to Plus P PLUS ammo, loaded only on order for some police agencies.


Why not just use .357 ammo? Politics in liberal cities! The cops wanted to be able to tell the media and "community activists" that they issued .38 ammo.


It's not supposed to have ever reached the public, but some has, so be wary of it. It's loaded beyond SAAMI specs and departments ordering it had to sign waivers conceding that it'd cause more rapid gun wear.
 
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19-4 With Cracked Forcing Cone

I have one right now that split the last time out after shooting 357's and some 38+P's. I have a barrel on the way and a gunsmith ready to install. Failed 1/28/17 in my hand. Cylinder would no swing open and had to be forced.
 

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I split the forcing cone on my Ruger Blackhawk convertible years ago. I had shot a lot of hot 357 reloads and 9mm submachine gun ammo, so there's no telling what did the deed.
 
In all my days, handling and shooting, I've only seen one cracked forcing cone in captivity.
It was on an early 6" Colt Python.
 
A friend and I became obsessed with velocity at one point in the mid 70's. We both had 4 inch model 19-3 and were reloading using the Speer #8 manual. I don't remember the exact load but it was a heavy dose of SR4756 and Speer 125 gr. JHP in .357 cases with a small pistol std. primer. The book spec was 1600+ fps in 6 inch barrels. This was the hottest pistol load I had ever shot. You could actually feel the pressure wave when fired and see a softball size white flash. We shot thousands of these over a period of 4 or 5 years in our two revolvers with only a very small amount of gas cutting of the top straps.
During that same period we also loaded and shot a much smaller qty. of .38 spl. 110 gr. JHP max loads from that same #8 manual in our model 60s with no ill effects.
We experienced no forcing cone problems. Of course these guns were cleaned properly and regularly.
 

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