Cracking the forcing cone on a model 28 would take some real effort. That is amazing.
Ever Cracked a Forcing Cone?
- Thread starter BC38
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Cracking the forcing cone on a model 28 would take some real effort. That is amazing.
Lonegle57
Member
Came home with a model 64 recently, was on the dirty side but otherwise in (what I thought) good shape. After cleaning around the forcing cone, found a crack in the 6 oclock position. Will have to get barrel replaced now and put more in to it than should have. Learned to look a lot closer from now on. Does have one of the smoothest double actions I have run into in some time, ah well, lesson learned.
That's why if you regularly go with 2 or 3 scoops, you should always use L or N series cones.
I would have thought that it would crack your skull too from the cylinder and top strap blowing up along with the forcing cone.
I have rebarreled a few K frames with cracked forcing cones, these were competition guns used for the Bianchi Cup and were firing 125 grain jacketed bullets at 1000 fps or more. Very seldom saw a PPC gun that shot all lead bullets crack. I've also seen one or two L frames crack from the same type of loads but it took a lot more of them. I've never seen a 357 N frame crack.
I owned a 19-4 purchased in 1982. Noticed around 2002 that the bottom of the forcing cone was cracked. I did change the barrel and sold it about a year later.
Yes, I shot a lot of 125 gr jacketed bullets through it.
Yes, I shot a lot of 125 gr jacketed bullets through it.
Funny thing you never hear about a cracked forcing cone on a 66......I have a 66 from the same era as my 19 with lots of ammo through it with 0(zero) effects.....So stainless must hold up better..........
I bought a new Model 19 in 1980. Next I bought an RCBS Rockchucker press, dies, etc, and loaded up 500 cartridges using 125 grain jacketed bullets using data from the old Speer handbook (what could possibly go wrong?). I shot those up and then loaded another 500.
Somewhere though the second batch of ammo my gun suddenly locked up on me. I eventually got the cylinder open and discovered a cracked forcing cone. I had never heard of this before. I sent it back to S&W and they replaced the barrel under warranty, but it was the fault of my ammo, not the gun.
So, I learned two things. A Model 19 forcing cone can break, and there are no signs of pressure when working up a load for a 357 Magnum. If you ever do get sticky extraction, you are WAY over-pressure (my handloads extracted just fine).
I learned one more thing too, and that is the foolishness of shooting low pressure ammo for casual use, and then using (over?)max pressure ammo for self defense. If you are using a gun for self defense, do not use a load that can tie-up your gun when your life is depending on it.
I have a Model 66 from a year or two later, and that is working (not "running") just fine. I learned from my mistake, and have never shot light bullet, high pressure ammo through it.
Somewhere though the second batch of ammo my gun suddenly locked up on me. I eventually got the cylinder open and discovered a cracked forcing cone. I had never heard of this before. I sent it back to S&W and they replaced the barrel under warranty, but it was the fault of my ammo, not the gun.
So, I learned two things. A Model 19 forcing cone can break, and there are no signs of pressure when working up a load for a 357 Magnum. If you ever do get sticky extraction, you are WAY over-pressure (my handloads extracted just fine).
I learned one more thing too, and that is the foolishness of shooting low pressure ammo for casual use, and then using (over?)max pressure ammo for self defense. If you are using a gun for self defense, do not use a load that can tie-up your gun when your life is depending on it.
I have a Model 66 from a year or two later, and that is working (not "running") just fine. I learned from my mistake, and have never shot light bullet, high pressure ammo through it.
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