Pick one

Beauseph · Mar 26, 2024

I'm brand new to the revolver world. I've shot them and always thought they were "neat" but I never actually considered their reliability until I thought of all the malfunctions you can have with an autoloader compared to a revolver.

In addition, revolvers are the best looking handguns.

It seems that my timing is terrible as all of the older model Smiths have skyrocketed in price... well I guess I should've expected that (and I did). I missed out on the surplus/turn in sales from companies and now I've been researching based on what I can find online.

What should I look for in my first revolver? I'm partial to age, history, and older designs in my search. I do like the added value of them being used as police / military in their history - I don't necessary need a prior marked LE/MIL gun though.

My intended uses are mostly going to be range use and the occasional walk in the woods gun. It may be delegated to the wife's side of the bed since it's so easy to use in comparison to my decked out autoloaders with optics.

I'm going into this with limiting my purchase to one gun at this time. Like a, if you could only have one, which would it be, type of scenario. If I enjoy it, I may get others.

The options I've researched have been:

Model 10 (Dash 4, 5, 6)
Model 19 (Pre lock)
Model 66 (Pre lock)
Model 686+ (Prefer pre lock but that's been thin picking)

I've been trying to find a decent price for these and they've seemed to be all over online. Anybody able to give me a good range to start with/go by?

I've gravitated toward a 4 inch barrel and I don't have a huge preference on blued vs SS.

As far as caliber, I'm not terribly partial but I'd think a .357 capable gun is the best option currently since you can run 38s through it.

Any other insight, recommendations, pricing history, etc is greatly appreciated.

22hipower · Mar 26, 2024

They're like potato chips, nobody can have just one. But you have to start somewhere and those you've listed are as good a place to start as any. Personally of those listed I'd go with a 4 inch M19 or 66. Whichever I found first at a reasonable price ($600-$900 where I shop) without box/papers/etc. While I was looking for one, should I stumble on a Combat Masterpiece .22 (M18) I'd grab that too. After those, the sky is the limit. Good luck and be sure and show them off here. And welcome to the Forum.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

Beauseph · Mar 26, 2024

22hipower said:
They're like potato chips, nobody can have just one. But you have to start somewhere and those you've listed are as good a place to start as any. Personally of those listed I'd go with a 4 inch M19 or 66. Whichever I found first at a reasonable price ($600-$900 where I shop) without box/papers/etc. While I was looking for one, should I stumble on a Combat Masterpiece .22 (M18) I'd grab that too. After those, the sky is the limit. Good luck and be sure and show them off here. And welcome to the Forum.

Jeff
SWCA #1457

I appreciate the reply. So far I'm leaning toward the 19/66 with a slight preference to the 19 because a blued gun is nicer to my eyes to look at.

Finding one seems to be the difficulty, at least locally. I've been to no less than a dozen gun stores and pawn shops with no luck finding any of the listed models.

What's the range on that M18?

ColumbusJBR · Mar 26, 2024

All of those are fine choices. If you want the flexibility to handle .357 rounds, eliminate the model 10.

I’ve yet to meet a person who dislikes their Model 19 or 66 (They’re essentially the same gun, 19 is usually blued, 66 is stainless). K frame is a great size, adjustable sights, .357 mag flexibility… what’s not to love?

686 also a fine weapon, albeit a little beefier than the K frames. If you want to shoot a LOT of .357, the 686 was designed specifically to handle that. Not that you can’t shoot .357 in the 19 or 66, but there have been rare but documented instances of the forcing cone cracking due to overuse of hot .357s… just something to consider. I wouldn’t let that deter me from a 19 or 66 if they check all the other boxes.

For realistic pricing, it’s helpful to check completed auctions on GB. Gives you a current idea of what people are willing to pay, and just as important, AREN’T willing to pay.

And IF I could only have 1? That depends on the person, but personally I’ll be dead and gone before I sell my blued Model 19 4”. It’s mine forever

jbtrucker · Mar 26, 2024

I've owned all of the models listed would choose Model 66 . Blued guns are nice but most used and show scratches and wear. You can cold blue but usually rubs off . Stainless can be lightly sanded and polished . other models 64 ,67 and Model 65 mag. Other common blued model would be Model 14

bananaman · Mar 26, 2024

Welcome to the FORUM from Michigan! Once you start you want more! Good luck with your search. Bob

Truckman · Mar 26, 2024

I've always told newcomers to choose what fits the hand well, but even having said that the K-frames you listed are easily adapted to any size/shape hand by changing the grips...I would suggest any .38/.357 that fits your budget as a first one since you'll have a very wide variety of target/plinking/defensive ammo to choose from...Of the ones listed you have one with fixed sights and the others with adjustable sights...Choose the sights that are quickly acquired by your vision...Those are my suggestions based on what you have listed...

And welcome to our sickness...There is no cure, nor should there be...

...Ben

Buzzzer · Mar 26, 2024

Range and "walk in the woods" gun, the 686 since most can handle the weight for those kinds of instances (unless you plan on spending hours upon hours in the woods). If you would plan on daily carrying the 66 hands down. I have the 686+ and while it's a superb firearm with an excellent trigger it gets a little long on the tooth for EDC as far as weight is concerned. I'm on the lookout for a good 66.

As has already been mentioned get your hands on them and see what feels best. If it feels good in your hand you'll shoot good with it. I've never seen the opposite so far...

Welcome to the addicts club!

Yendor357 · Mar 26, 2024

As long as it has adjustable sights, you can’t go wrong.

Beauseph · Mar 26, 2024

I really appreciate all of the replies and information provided! It seems I made a great decision by joining up.

I've been hesitant on the 686 because of the extra weight. When I go into the woods, it's normal for me to be out there for an easier counted amount of days rather than hours, so weight is a factor.

That being said, I've carried my full size 20 round Staccato P on over night trips already. I'd consider the revolver for shorter, lighter weight type treks rather than over night, deep woods excursions.

It seems I'm settling on a model 19 the most. I don't mind that the bluing shows some wear and age, as long as I do my part, it should be a non-issue as far as corrosion / pitting is concerned. I just like the look of blued better.

Frailer · Mar 26, 2024

If I had a desire to shoot .357 magnums, I’d buy a 686.

But as you say you don’t have your heart set on this I’d vote for a 4” Model 10. They are the quintessential service revolver, they’re easy to find, they are the least expensive of the presented options, and they’re a hoot to shoot.

Bald1 · Mar 26, 2024

If you want a revolver. Buy the epitome of a revolver. S&W 10-5 or 10-6 depending on your barrel preference. You’ll never regret it

Beauseph · Mar 26, 2024

Frailer said:
If I had a desire to shoot .357 magnums, I’d buy a 686.

But as you say you don’t have your heart set on this I’d vote for a 4” Model 10. They are the quintessential service revolver, they’re easy to find, they are the least expensive of the presented options, and they’re a hoot to shoot.

I like the option of being able to load some 357 for the woods, if desired. How does the 10 hold up to .38 +P?

AveragEd · Mar 26, 2024

You sound a little like me. My first firearm was a four-inch Model 19 with the "three Ts" - target trigger, target hammer and target sights. I now own 22 Smith & Wesson pre-lock, pre-MIM revolvers, including the Model 66 version of that Model 19 (pictured below) so they are infectious. My suggestion is a four-inch Model 66 because of its flexibility - it can be used for target shooting, hunting and self-protection as that barrel length is not unhandy to carry - and its low-maintenance finish. Three of my S&Ws are Model 66s.

The slightly larger-framed Model 686s are nice - I have a small fleet of them as well - but the K-frame is to me just a little nicer. All that said, if you can find a nice older Model 19 their bluing is gorgeous. Shucks, you could just buy them all!

Ed

Truckman · Mar 26, 2024

AveragEd said:
Shucks, you could just buy them all!

No you can't!...I've been trying for years...Everytime I think I've bought them all, there's another one on the horizon...I feel like the poor, drunken Canadian sailor who sat crying under the billboard that read "Drink Canada Dry!"...He lamented over and over, "It can't be done, it can't be done!"...

...Ben

Beauseph · Mar 26, 2024

AveragEd said:
You sound a little like me. My first firearm was a four-inch Model 19 with the "three Ts" - target trigger, target hammer and target stocks. I now own 22 Smith & Wesson pre-lock, pre-MIM revolvers, including the Model 66 version of that Model 19 (pictured below) so they are infectious. My suggestion is a four-inch Model 66 because of its flexibility - it can be used for target shooting, hunting and self-protection as that barrel length is not unhandy to carry - and its low-maintenance finish. Three of my S&Ws are Model 66s.

The slightly larger-framed Model 686s are nice - I have a small fleet of them as well - but the K-frame is to me just a little nicer. All that said, if you can find a nice older Model 19 their bluing is gorgeous. Shucks, you could just buy them all!

Ed

I do have to say that 66 looks gorgeous. I'm back and forth for sure whether 19 or 66. Maybe both is the right answer.

Does a 66 normally take more out of the wallet to purchase compared to a 19?

steelslaver · Mar 26, 2024

A model 19 or 66 in decent shape will fire 38 specials forever and a lot of 357 mags if you use bullets around 158gr and don't +p absolute max loads on the 357s. A 4" 686 will digest a lot of about anything and is about 42oz while a the 19 or 66 are about 36oz

If your really weight conscious and only fire a couple hundred 357s a year go with the K frame Or you could keep an eye out for a 386. A Scandium alloy L frame 357 that is about 18 oz

So says the guy with J, K and N frame 357s LOL. The 5 shot J steel frame is kind of brutal and having several scandium 44 specials and 45 acps, I will tell you the recoil with the real light guns is "SNAPPY"

Hondo44 · Mar 26, 2024

When comparing on-line auction prices be sure to only look at SOLD auction prices under completed auctions.

Frailer · Mar 26, 2024

Beauseph said:
I like the option of being able to load some 357 for the woods, if desired. How does the 10 hold up to .38 +P?

The SAAMI max pressure for .357 Magnum is 75% higher than that for 38 +P. I would trust a Model 10 to stand up to a steady diet of the latter much more than I would a trust Model 19 to stand up to a steady diet of the former.

MelvinWalker · Mar 26, 2024

Having carried and qualified with a K frame for 20 years, my personal overall choice is a Model 64 4 inch...I have a really nice Model 10, Model 15, 1969 Colt Trooper MkIII, etc. but a basic K frame stainless is just hard to beat.

With stainless, you don't have that inevitable cylinder drag wear line that is so obvious on a blued gun...Plus, the fact that the value is never going to go down...If you want L frame, the 4 inch pre-lock 686 is awesome too...But again, go stainless if you plan on using the gun...You can always buff a little cylinder drag line away from a stainless gun....Blue requires major surgery.

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