Smith&Wesson 686-6 maintenance, storing, and cleaning

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typicallcplkim

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Hello all, I'm new to this forum and handguns. My only experience with firearms is in the Marine Corp reserve, with rifles, LMG's and CLP pretty much my knowledge with weapons and cleaning weapons. Haven't had the opportunity to go on range and qualify for the M9 yet.

I recently just purchased a 686-6 for my 21st bday, and after purchasing it, I realized that even with all the good reviews, I don't know squat about properly cleaning a revolver such as specific cleaning substances, key/important spots to clean, and how to clean the firing pin if necessary on revolvers?..

I apologize for the stupid questions, but I plan to keep this revolver to start a collection and also as a self-defense weapon and I'd like to keep this well maintained as possible. Thanks.
 
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This is an excellent book with sections on revolver maintenance. It's also good for first-time revolver owners.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Digest-Book-Revolver-Grant-Cunningham/dp/1440218129"]Amazon.com: Gun Digest Book of the Revolver (9781440218125): Grant Cunningham, Massad Ayoob: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51mKr5moT7L.@@AMEPARAM@@51mKr5moT7L[/ame]
 
Gun forums are like car forums in that maintenance, cleaning and lube suggestions vary from ignorant to incredibly anal with some reasonable advice thrown in.

If you're used to CLP type stuff, you could actually use it for everything on a revolver. No need to lube the firing pin or internals until several thousand rounds, if even then. Solvent (or CLP), brushes and patches to clean the barrel and cylinder. CLP on a rag to wipe the soot off wherever it forms.

If you shoot lead bullets, study up on removing possible leading.

On an S&W revolver, the screw on the front of the sight blade and the slotted nut that holds the cylinder release thumb piece can sometimes loosen. Get a set of gunsmithing or good quality hollow ground screwdrivers. Plain screwdrivers will damage revolver screws.

There is one main area that can cause problems if not cared for. That is the area under the extractor. Any significant amount of crud (mainly unburned powder) there will cause function problems, mainly difficulty closing/opening the cylinder. Tipping the muzzle up when ejecting will help keep unburned flakes from lodging in there. Keep the area under the extractor free of oil and solvent.

After enough rounds, you may notice the cylinder not spinning freely while it's open with the muzzle pointed down. Lube and powder residue can form a goo in there. Watch some videos on removing the yoke (one screw) and cleaning it if needed.

Enjoy that 686! Many folks regard the 586/686 to be one of, if not THE best 357 revolvers ever made.
 
Buy a pistol cleaning kit and make sure you have .38 brushes. If you're going to shoot lead, I would get a Lewis Lead Remover. No wonder cleaner is necessary. Hoppes #9 has been cleaning guns for decades. Lightly oil the outside and wipe it down when you're done. Check out youtube videos for instructions, but if you can clean an M-16, the revolver is much less work.
 
Happy birthday and welcome to the forum from South Carolina.

Got good tips already. Though many find it unnecessary or detrimental, I like to clean the build-up on the front of the cylinder with a Birchwood-Casey lead remover and polishing cloth.

You picked a great firearm, enjoy.
 
bigwheelzip said:
Happy birthday and welcome to the forum from South Carolina.

Got good tips already. Though many find it unnecessary or detrimental, I like to clean the build-up on the front of the cylinder with a Birchwood-Casey lead remover and polishing cloth.

You picked a great firearm, enjoy.
Click to expand...

I forgot to mention the lead removing cloth. Takes the carbon rings off in seconds.
 
I use hoppes to clean the bore and cylinders after shooting. Also put some on a paper towel to remove the residue around the forcing cone, top strap, backside by the hand window and cylinder stop. Work the extractor, clean off the residue that collects from shooting underneath the star, then lightly oil.

No need to remove the sideplate. It's best if you don't. I put a dab of oil behind the trigger, in the font top part of the trigger when it's fully pulled, and just a dab on the internals when the hammer is cocked. Also just a light dab on the hand and on the cylinder stop. You can blow off excess with high pressure air.

Depending on how much you shoot, you can take the grips off about once a year and put a dab of oil on the rebound slide, work the trigger and wipe off any excess (if there is any) and then reattach the grips.

That's it.
 
I have the same gun. I love it. The only problems I've had is gunk building up under the ejector star. I used too much oil. The oil collected the gunk. I use Hoppes #9. Cleans it up nice. Here's a Hickok45 video on Revolver cleaning. He knows more than I do.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiWNZgtu2uw[/ame]

Have fun with your 686.
 
ChazFraz said:
I have the same gun. I love it. The only problems I've had is gunk building up under the ejector star. I used too much oil. The oil collected the gunk. I use Hoppes #9. Cleans it up nice. Here's a Hickok45 video on Revolver cleaning. He knows more than I do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiWNZgtu2uw

Have fun with your 686.
Click to expand...

I've seen that video before. Hickock is right that it is "clean enough", but that doesn't mean it's clean. I would never consider a gun clean without using a bore brush on the barrel and chambers. No cleaner and a patch is going to get all the lead and copper out of the rifling grooves. And the chambers are usually worse and than the barrel. Start to finish I can thouroughly clean a revolver in about 20 minutes.
 
I congratulate you on your wisdom to purchase a 686 at the age of 21! Not many 21 year olds would make that choice. Welcome to the forum. You've been given some really good advice for maintaining your 686 for decades.

I like to clean the internals of my revolvers from time to time by using Powder Blast into all the orifices of the gun and then using canned compressed air (Dust Off) to spread it all around and to blow out any excess. Then follow up with some spray Rem Oil and do the same with the compressed air to spread and remove excess. Don't use compressed air from your compressor in the garage (if you have one). That air will contain way too much moisture.
 
Keep her clean

Hi foks,

I agree with what people have said.

I have only recently joined the S&W revolver club but I have four already. A 617 no dash 22LR, 27-4 357Mag, 686 no-dash 357mag and a 629 Classic 44 Mag.

Here is what I have done so far:

I already had a full set of Brownells Magma tip screwdriver bits. They do a small set just for S&W revolvers if you need. Don't attempt without proper tools.

Buying all 2nd hand I wanted to get my revolvers checked out. So after reading online and watching some videos. I took off the grips and stripped them fully down. The first one took the longest as I was a novice. The key is to be 'very careful' with the driver sizes. Aim for 90% width and length fit in the slot and then have the revolver on something that won't slip. Get the bit properly in and support the tip with your fingertips. There are a few tricky bits but I'm no expert and I had it stripped down in 15 minutes.

The good thing to buy is a specialty tool to take off the rebound spring. It can be done with screwdriver but it is trickier.

Put a cloth over the springs when you pull them out to avoid them flying away.

I then cleaned all the parts in petrol. They were covered in dried up gummy old oil.

I then cleaned everything with Hornady gun cleaner and lube in a spray can. This dries off but leaves a dry-slide coating. Using a fine applicator I put some quality oil on the pivot/moving parts. The secret is 'just a fine drop' and wipe off any excess.

Unless you 'really' know what you are doing avoid stoning the trigger etc. There exist spring kits that do a good job or seek a gunsmith who knows his business.

Putting it back together - take your time. Verify the mechanism works fine before putting back the slide plate.

The slide plate is usually a very tight fit. TAKE YOUR TIME here and don't be afraid to take it off and check the fit if you feel it is difficult.

In general the full strip down is a once a year thing. A general clean on the exterior after every outing.

A little warning with lead removal clothes is not to use them on blued gun finishes. The Birchwood one works well.

On my stainless finish revolvers I did a little polish up with Mothers polish. There are many degrees of how far you can go with this. Some people dislike it but that is your choice - see Youtube. Be careful with the level of polishing on laser etched revolvers - it can wipe out the laser etching if you are not careful.

There are many tips out there so do try to learn as it's satisfying to get to know your revolvers.

Regards, Mark
 
Last edited:
tramblygoat said:
Hi foks,

I agree with what people have said.

I have only recently joined the S&W revolver club but I have four already. A 617 no dash 22LR, 27-4 357Mag, 686 no-dash 357mag and a 629 Classic 44 Mag.

Here is what I have done so far:

I already had a full set of Brownells Magma tip screwdriver bits. They do a small set just for S&W revolvers if you need. Don't attempt without proper tools.

Buying all 2nd hand I wanted to get my revolvers checked out. So after reading online and watching some videos. I took off the grips and stripped them fully down. The first one took the longest as I was a novice. The key is to be 'very careful' with the driver sizes. Aim for 90% width and length fit in the slot and then have the revolver on something that won't slip. Get the bit properly in and support the tip with your fingertips. There are a few tricky bits but I'm no expert and I had it stripped down in 15 minutes.

The good thing to buy is a specialty tool to take off the rebound spring. It can be done with screwdriver but it is trickier.

Put a cloth over the springs when you pull them out to avoid them flying away.

I then cleaned all the parts in petrol. They were covered in dried up gummy old oil.

I then cleaned everything with Hornady gun cleaner and lube in a spray can. This dries off but leaves a dry-slide coating. Using a fine applicator I put some quality oil on the pivot/moving parts. The secret is 'just a fine drop' and wipe off any excess.

Unless you 'really' know what you are doing avoid stoning the trigger etc. There exist spring kits that do a good job or seek a gunsmith who knows his business.

Putting it back together - take your time. Verify the mechanism works fine before putting back the slide plate.

The slide plate is usually a very tight fit. TAKE YOUR TIME here and don't be afraid to take it off and check the fit if you feel it is difficult.

In general the full strip down is a once a year thing. A general clean on the exterior after every outing.

A little warning with lead removal clothes is not to use them on blued gun finishes. The Birchwood one works well.

On my stainless finish revolvers I did a little polish up with Mothers polish. There are many degrees of how far you can go with this. Some people dislike it but that is your choice - see Youtube. Be careful with the level of polishing on laser etched revolvers - it can wipe out the laser etching if you are not careful.

There are many tips out there so do try to learn as it's satisfying to get to know your revolvers.

Regards, Mark
Click to expand...

Wow. I really like how specific you were!

Also, what do you mean by "stoning" the trigger?
 
ChazFraz said:
I have the same gun. I love it. The only problems I've had is gunk building up under the ejector star. I used too much oil. The oil collected the gunk. I use Hoppes #9. Cleans it up nice. Here's a Hickok45 video on Revolver cleaning. He knows more than I do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiWNZgtu2uw

Have fun with your 686.
Click to expand...

kbm6893 said:
I've seen that video before. Hickock is right that it is "clean enough", but that doesn't mean it's clean. I would never consider a gun clean without using a bore brush on the barrel and chambers. No cleaner and a patch is going to get all the lead and copper out of the rifling grooves. And the chambers are usually worse and than the barrel. Start to finish I can thouroughly clean a revolver in about 20 minutes.
Click to expand...

Actually this was the video I was watching while attempting to clean it right after purchasing it and bringing it home. However, I also realized that he said that's the way he would clean it, knowing that he was going to shoot it again fairly soon. Going back to the "clean enough" concept he was going on about.

However, I'm trying to find a cleaning method that ensures longevity of the revolvers life because trying to balance school, work, and volunteering, I don't see myself going to the range to often.

I told myself I would at the very least clean the weapon once or twice a month even if I didnt take it out to the range.

So, unfortunately, it's going to be in the dresser for alot of it time :(
 
The 686...

The 686 is easy to keep clean and you don't have to worry about wearing or marring the blue. I applaud your choice. The hardest thing is that magnum loads cause a hard, lead, tarry buildup on the front of the cylinder that can be very hard to remove. Some people consider it a badge of honor, but I like a clean gun and I use a Shaklee product for getting burned crud off of kitchen metals and it works both fast and good.

Every few years, you might want to take off the crane/cylinder for cleaning and oiling. It's an easy job without messing with the internals under the slide plate. I draw the line at the sideplate. I'll let a knowledgeable individual remove and work under there.
 
rwsmith said:
Every few years, you might want to take off the crane/cylinder for cleaning and oiling. It's an easy job without messing with the internals under the slide plate.
Click to expand...
Why only every few years?
I do it every time I shoot. Makes a thorough cleaning of the cylinder faster and easier.
 
typicallcplkim said:
Wow. I really like how specific you were!

Also, what do you mean by "stoning" the trigger?
Click to expand...

Taking a very fine Arkansas stone and polishing certain surfaces *if* the trigger is not smooth. I've not needed to do this for any K, L or N frame I own, and I have about a dozen of them.

If this is your first revolver, and you are inclined to take it apart, buy this book first: [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Revolvers-Shop-Manual-Expanded-2014/dp/B00QSFM5VI/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1449459903&sr=1-3&refinements=p_27%3AJerry+Kuhnhausen"]The S&W Revolvers - A Shop Manual - New Expanded 5th Edition - 2014: Jerry Kuhnhausen: 0638056730086: Amazon.com: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Besq6RbhL.@@AMEPARAM@@51Besq6RbhL[/ame]

The only revolvers I have that needed some trigger work were my j-frames.
 
typicallcplkim said:
Hello all, I'm new to this forum and handguns. My only experience with firearms is in the Marine Corp reserve, with rifles, LMG's and CLP pretty much my knowledge with weapons and cleaning weapons. Haven't had the opportunity to go on range and qualify for the M9 yet.

I recently just purchased a 686-6 for my 21st bday, and after purchasing it, I realized that even with all the good reviews, I don't know squat about properly cleaning a revolver such as specific cleaning substances, key/important spots to clean, and how to clean the firing pin if necessary on revolvers?..

I apologize for the stupid questions, but I plan to keep this revolver to start a collection and also as a self-defense weapon and I'd like to keep this well maintained as possible. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Sir , there are no stupid questions. You have invested is a product that will last a lifetime and knowing how to care for it prior to making assumptions is SMART!! Welcome aboard.

You'll get some great answers and wow...a 686...mine is 22 years old and it's sweet as is gets...
 
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