Just wondering g if there are any wood grips that can rival rubber for recoil control..? Got a 4 inch round butt model 13 ..love to shoot some 158's out of it I don't care for the bruises palm and bloody thumb... Any suggestions??
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Wood grips for recoil...
- Thread starter caleb4387
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The only solution, such as it is, for heavy recoil is rubber grips that cover the backstrap. When I carried a revolver on the job rubber grips were a bit of a novelty, but after I used them to qualify w/my 4" Model 15 I kept them on my service gun. It was a tool to me and since I was in uniform there was no concern about concealment.
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Wider wood stocks help to spread the recoil force, but they are still...wood. Which would you prefer to catch bare-handed, a baseball or racquetball? 
If you don't want to go the rubber grip route, a padded shooting glove will cushion similarly. Good luck in your decision.
If you don't want to go the rubber grip route, a padded shooting glove will cushion similarly. Good luck in your decision.
shawn mccarver
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Back in the 60s, I once complained about the heavy recoil of 158 grain Magnum loads in my N Frame ".357" Magnum, which had factory Magnas. An old timer said, "grow a set son, it quits hurtin' when you quit shootin'!"
Now that we live in a kinder, gentler world, I will say that if the shooter's first concern is the pain of shooting, it could contribute to bracing in anticipation of the shot, which some call "flinching."
The only solution is another set of grips. You can go all rubber, with covered or uncovered backstrap, or you can get a combo wood and rubber similar to the original Ruger GP100 grip (Pachmayr made some for certain S&W models).
I do not favor shooting gloves as you will not have them when you need them in a gunfight, so training with them causes other problems.
Hogue used a special material called "Sorbothane" on the S&W 500 grip, but I do not find that term on their site presently. Since the X frame uses the same grip as the K and L frames, you might look for a set of those, but I note you indicated you have a 4 inch Model 13 with a "round butt."
That brings up a completely different question. Since the 4 inch Model 13 was square butt, did you do a barrel replacement?
Inquiring minds want to know!
Now that we live in a kinder, gentler world, I will say that if the shooter's first concern is the pain of shooting, it could contribute to bracing in anticipation of the shot, which some call "flinching."
The only solution is another set of grips. You can go all rubber, with covered or uncovered backstrap, or you can get a combo wood and rubber similar to the original Ruger GP100 grip (Pachmayr made some for certain S&W models).
I do not favor shooting gloves as you will not have them when you need them in a gunfight, so training with them causes other problems.
Hogue used a special material called "Sorbothane" on the S&W 500 grip, but I do not find that term on their site presently. Since the X frame uses the same grip as the K and L frames, you might look for a set of those, but I note you indicated you have a 4 inch Model 13 with a "round butt."
That brings up a completely different question. Since the 4 inch Model 13 was square butt, did you do a barrel replacement?
Inquiring minds want to know!
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Look for some Pachmayr Compact or Compact Professional grips............. K-frame round butt.
If you have a set of grips custom made to the exact fit of your hand it will help a lot, but the rubber covered back strap grips are still the best recoil absorbents.
Ashlander
Member
I have rubber grips for shooting and pretty wood grips for presentation -- best of both worlds.
Backlighting
Member
The Pachmayr Diamond Pro Grips (rubber) for my J frame make a significant difference, since they cover the backstrap.
Joe Hohmann
Member
Since I only shoot .38 and .44 Specials in my magnum revolvers, my wood grips are fine. I hate the look of rubber, in fact, I don't like checkering on wood either.
bcc629
US Veteran
This thread http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-revolvers-1980-present/198469-big-460xvr-deserves-big-grips.html makes it look possible.
Agree with the Pachs-The Compac Pro is a great grip. As for the barrel, around '94-'95 (I think, don't have the SCSW with me right now) the 13-4 run the frames were round butt. I used to have one, bought new, and there's one for sale in a shop near me right now.
For the 4" Combat Magnum I prefer Ahrend's wood target grips. Just a bit less width than the S&W grips.
However, for the 4" 629 I went to the Pachmayr N frame round butt because they nicely fill my palm. Had to trim the sq butt frame to accommodate the grips, but what a difference.
However, for the 4" 629 I went to the Pachmayr N frame round butt because they nicely fill my palm. Had to trim the sq butt frame to accommodate the grips, but what a difference.
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First time I shot my Model 29, with the factory wood target grips, in a Long Distance Pistol match (Metallic Silhouette to some people), 80 rounds of max load 240 gr bullets must have made the grip panels scissor front to back against the frame, because I had two three inch long blood blisters frame width apart running across the palm of my shooting hand. I never had the problem or any other kind of bruising with any other gun up to 357 mag 158 gr full house loads. Even my Mod 19 snubby didn't bruise my hand with hot loads. My wrist ached a little, but no bruising or palm soreness.
For the 44 mag, I got some Pachmyer rubber boots that covered the backstrap and never had the problem again.
Have you tried the stock wood grips through a box of bullets? You might be OK, and at least you'd know what direction to go in.
For the 44 mag, I got some Pachmyer rubber boots that covered the backstrap and never had the problem again.
Have you tried the stock wood grips through a box of bullets? You might be OK, and at least you'd know what direction to go in.
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Lol I think I'd be alright with an n frame. Maybe I need to check my grip also. I meant to say 3 inch barrel although I've seen some with round butts and 4 inch barrel in the later year modelsBack in the 60s, I once complained about the heavy recoil of 158 grain Magnum loads in my N Frame ".357" Magnum, which had factory Magnas. An old timer said, "grow a set son, it quits hurtin' when you quit shootin'!"
Now that we live in a kinder, gentler world, I will say that if the shooter's first concern is the pain of shooting, it could contribute to bracing in anticipation of the shot, which some call "flinching."
The only solution is another set of grips. You can go all rubber, with covered or uncovered backstrap, or you can get a combo wood and rubber similar to the original Ruger GP100 grip (Pachmayr made some for certain S&W models).
I do not favor shooting gloves as you will not have them when you need them in a gunfight, so training with them causes other problems.
Hogue used a special material called "Sorbothane" on the S&W 500 grip, but I do not find that term on their site presently. Since the X frame uses the same grip as the K and L frames, you might look for a set of those, but I note you indicated you have a 4 inch Model 13 with a "round butt."
That brings up a completely different question. Since the 4 inch Model 13 was square butt, did you do a barrel replacement?
Inquiring minds want to know!
gwpercle
Member
Kim Ahrend knows how to make a grip that fits your hand and look drop dead gorgeous to boot . When they fit properly the take the hurt out of shooting. If you've ever shot a 12 gauge with a poorly fitting stock you know what I mean.
My model 58 in my avatar is wearing Ahrends Retro Combat in dark red - black cocobolo , they work so much better than the factory grips.
Gary
My model 58 in my avatar is wearing Ahrends Retro Combat in dark red - black cocobolo , they work so much better than the factory grips.
Gary
357-RevolverGuy
Member
Have you tried changing the way you're holding your gun? Bore shouldn't be sitting any higher just because of the Tyler's. I find that when my shooting hand/palm is up higher and covering the backstrap completely it helps manage that recoil. This is with a two handed hold. A set of wood target grips with cutout should be all you need if you're recoil sensitive.
BIGDOC
US Veteran
I regularly shoot my .44 with 225g and some 240g and am using the Hogue's. I have Pach's also but I find that I'm on target more with the Hogue's. They are both inexpensive so I got them and tried both. The factory woods are put away in a ammo can.
As maker of the BK grip adapters I decided I'd shoot an IDPA match with my 3" 65 wearing round butt Magnas and a grip adapter. Just to show 'em off, do a bit of "advertising," etc. I shoot 158g 38 Specials that just barely make the minimum power out of a 4" barrel, so they were about as mild as you could wish for. Still, after the third stage I had to go to the safe area and put a padded-backstrap rubber grip on the gun - it was what came with the gun, I think it was an Uncle Mike's brand. I'd shot no more than 54 rounds over about an hour, and just couldn't take any more of the discomfort.
I like the look and feel of Magnas and a grip adapter, and will carry a gun so equipped (if I don't have a Crimson Trace grip for it) knowing I should never have to fire more than a few shots in extremis. But for any kind of extended session, I personally have to have some (softer than wood) padding over the back of the grip.
I like the look and feel of Magnas and a grip adapter, and will carry a gun so equipped (if I don't have a Crimson Trace grip for it) knowing I should never have to fire more than a few shots in extremis. But for any kind of extended session, I personally have to have some (softer than wood) padding over the back of the grip.
