So I was shooting a buddies 43c and my 63 snub. After only 2-3 cylinders the cases became impossible to eject . Any solutions to stop this ? I guess polishing the cylinder throats? I don't know! Any help would be appreciated.
22LR cases sticking!
- Thread starter Dogmann
- Start date
max503
Well-known member
My 1980's Model 34 is like that. Some brands/lots of ammo are better than others. Those guns come with a brush. Sometimes I have to brush every other cylinder-full (Aguila). WW ammo will go through an entire 100 pack without brushing.
Experiment-----and keep it brushed.
Experiment-----and keep it brushed.
cgt4570
SWCA Member
You probably don't want to touch the throats, but polishing the charge holes should help. You DO NOT want to remove any material or use anything aggressive. My simple method is to cut a Q-tip in half and chuck it in a Dremmel or low speed drill. I use Flitz polish.
I used Flitz also, but on a cleaning patch wrapped around bore swab or brush. Use in a cordless drill and slowly polish the chambers, always moving the tool in and out, not keeping in one place. This will normally help, but the final repair is to have the chambers reamed with a Standard Finishing reamer. This will not cut anything from the throats, just the chamber where the brass is. There will be no change in accuracy.
Ashlander
Well-known member
I have used a wooden dowel slightly smaller than .22 and glue 320 or finer grit wet-dry around it. Then I hand turn it in each cylinder to the length of a shell case. Only a minute or so on each cylinder. Then I polish with a small cleaning patch with Mothers Mag polish (once again, I just hand turn it). I will then go to the range and assess. Repeat as necessary. It works and with my minimalist approach I have no fear of over-doing it.
VaTom
Well-known member
Are you cleaning the cylinder after each range visit? I have a 1980 63 and never had a problem. I use mostly CCI or Federal ammo. Recently bought a 1970s Remington 572 pump 22lr. You could feel resistance when putting a new round in. I decided it must have a build up of lead. Several cleanings with a brush and Hoppes #9 original solvent and you wouldn't believe the black gunk that came out. Smooth now. I have gone back to original Hoppes solvent after trying some of the newer brands. I think it is a better cleaner. All we had back in the day. Tried and true.
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bigggbbruce
Well-known member
We've been here several times lately..
What ammo are you using... I'd guess anything except Federal Brand..
Give some a try(Federal).. my revolvers all hate anything but Federal.
What ammo are you using... I'd guess anything except Federal Brand..
Give some a try(Federal).. my revolvers all hate anything but Federal.
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RGVshooter
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rockquarry
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In my experience, two out of three S&W .22 revolvers are like this. I've gotten used to it because it hasn't been that bad and I'm reluctant to enlarge anything. However, a competent gunsmith could probably fix the problem easily.
S&W has a history of tight .22 lr chambers in their revolvers. You need:
Manson Precision 513-051-220 22LR CYLINDER FINISHER REAMER.
Brownells keeps jacking up the price on these, but they do a great job. Do a search on this forum for more info.
Manson Precision 513-051-220 22LR CYLINDER FINISHER REAMER.
Brownells keeps jacking up the price on these, but they do a great job. Do a search on this forum for more info.
UncleEd
Well-known member
In my experience, .22s from the 1950s and on into
maybe the early 1970s the manufacturers used a
slightly thicker casing, less expansion.
But by making the cases thinner, less expensive to
produce, they expand a little or a lot depending on
the chambers and gun to gun.
May not be true, but this is what I believe.
maybe the early 1970s the manufacturers used a
slightly thicker casing, less expansion.
But by making the cases thinner, less expensive to
produce, they expand a little or a lot depending on
the chambers and gun to gun.
May not be true, but this is what I believe.
You don't want to stick anything abrasive in there especially dremel powered. The correct fix is a cleanup pass with a fresh finishing reamer lubed with some high sulfer cutting oil to true up the charge hole to SAMMI specifications. Done by hand BTW
This is a pretty common issue with mass produced rimfire revolvers. Worn tooling can result in slightly undersized chargeholes. Any defect in the tooling will be mirrored in the wall of the chargehole too with the same end result... sticky. Poor chip control when reaming can also lend to defects in the chargehole wall.
Chargeholes should not need any polishing after a proper cleanup pass with a good sharp reamer.
Do not mess with the cylinder throats, you can quickly ruin accuracy. Throats have no bearing on the brass, they serve simply to guide/align the bullet with and into the forcing cone.
Cheers
Bill
This is a pretty common issue with mass produced rimfire revolvers. Worn tooling can result in slightly undersized chargeholes. Any defect in the tooling will be mirrored in the wall of the chargehole too with the same end result... sticky. Poor chip control when reaming can also lend to defects in the chargehole wall.
Chargeholes should not need any polishing after a proper cleanup pass with a good sharp reamer.
Do not mess with the cylinder throats, you can quickly ruin accuracy. Throats have no bearing on the brass, they serve simply to guide/align the bullet with and into the forcing cone.
Cheers
Bill
I believe it, too. Try CCI before you do anything to the cylinder.
Well... A reamer and some cutting fluid and a 'T' handle such as a tap wrench to turn it, and a headspace gauge to verify your work from the same toolmaker as your reamer. Possess knowledge of how to use these tools. Judging the 'feel' of the tool when it's cutting/biting into the steel. Taking care to clear chips often and gauge the chargehole. If you cut too deep that chargehole probably won't fire. Take extra care when introducing the tool into the chamber and never turn it backwards, doing so will instantly dull the tool.
Cheers
Bill
Before you buy and reamers or tools..........
Clean the weapon with a solvent and brass bore brush to remove
all the junk that may be causing the problem.
Lead and wax are the main problems and maybe some powder fowling but
these will be removed with a little work on your part and it will not
remove any metal from your weapon.
You will know when the weapon is clean, when a white cotton patch comes out.......
without any black or gray on it.
Now go shoot some ammo and see what happens.
Clean the weapon with a solvent and brass bore brush to remove
all the junk that may be causing the problem.
Lead and wax are the main problems and maybe some powder fowling but
these will be removed with a little work on your part and it will not
remove any metal from your weapon.
You will know when the weapon is clean, when a white cotton patch comes out.......
without any black or gray on it.
Now go shoot some ammo and see what happens.
TomkinsSP
Well-known member
I also find Aguila stickiest and Federal least sticky. Not that anything is actually getting stuck, but it is a rap to clear the Aguila and tilting the cylinder to clear the Federal. I find the Aguila to be more accurate in my 43c making it a more complicated choice.
I would be very reluctant to do anything more than Fitz on a qtip because its obviously an ammunition dependent rather than gun dependent variable. Aguila, Olin, CCI, Geco, Federal all seem to have different coe of friction/case expansion.
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I would definitely start with the less aggressive methods of cleaning/polishing. If you don't get the results you want, consider the reaming tool. I have had excellent success reaming two K-22s from the 60's and 70's. I don't have the guts to touch the two I have in the 1937 and 1950 time slots.
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