Does Anyone Lube Internals?

thegoatmumbler

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Does anyone lube any of the internals on their revolvers? I put a slight amount of grease on the hammer and trigger posts but that's it.
 
I do that occasionally. I put a couple of tiny oil drops between the hammer and hammer block (after cocking the hammer in SA) or trough the cylinder hand slot. If I have to remove the sideplate for a cleaning then I also use some light grease.
 
Just to be more precise, this is a competition 686 that gets a lot of rounds. Internals have been polished, springs changed, etc. A SMOOTH, consistent trigger pull is the desired result. Detailed cleaning and lubing would be performed regularly to ensure reliability and also because I enjoy doing that as therapy. :)
 
Everyone has their own favorite lubes.

That's for sure. And everyone has their own method along with quotes from some gunsmith or manual to prove their way it right. :)

If I'm inside the revolver, I give all the parts a light coat of oil and often a little grease on some areas where metal rubs metal.
 
Very light coat of very light oil on the internals. Synthetic grease on the hand and star/ratchet or whatever you call that thing.
 
I use Slide Glide on the internals from BENOS.COM. I've been using it for 20 years and am very happy. It doesn't migrate and it doesn't pick up grime.
 
Rarely I hose it out w Ballistol and let it drip out the hammer side over a few days. Cleans out everything and keep it running very well.
 
I use a light coat of oil. I've used all kinds of different things other than oil. I really haven't noticed much of a difference. I think its more important to keep the gun clean.
 
I think your inference is "do you lubricate the internals if you don't take the side plate off?" I worked with compressed air right at my workbench. Do this: place a drop of of your favorite liquid lube on each side of the hammer (if possible), place a drop on both sides of the trigger up against the frame, place a drop on top of the cylinder latch. Then blow all those areas out with compressed air.

Take the side plate off: clean all parts with Q-tips. Place drop of your oil on hammer stud, on trigger stud, on catch notch of the cylinder latch, on three sides of the trigger slide block. Replace side plate. Blow out the action as above. The cylinder and extraction system is another story. There are other methods of accomplishing the same goals. This just happens to be the two I settled on. ............
 
I put a moly paste on the studs, Sears, sides, cylinder ejection rod,the ratchet, arm, pin and stud, At the sametime I shim the hammer and trigger. Check the cylinder gap.
 
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I lube all working surfaces with a home made lube of Mobile One 10-40 with about 10% Moly Coat dissolved in it. Just a touch is enough. On my carry gun I do a major cleaning about 6 times a year. I detail strip it and clean it thoroughly then blow it off with brake cleaner. Next I soak it in Birchwood- Casey Barrier and let it sit for an hour or so. Next I completely dry it off, lube and re assemble. Last, I use a good paste wax and treat the area underneath the grip panels to prevent rust. Seems like a lot to do I know but carrying in Summer I do sweat and over the years I've had some nasty surprises with rust- doing it this way I've not had a problem. I don't disassemble the gun for normal cleaning; I just remove the cylinder and yoke and clean what I can get at.
 
Rarely I hose it out w Ballistol and let it drip out the hammer side over a few days. Cleans out everything and keep it running very well.

Great at dissolving any gum on newly acquired guns. Thin enough that it doesn't attract dirt like thicker lubes.
 
After polishing surfaces with a ruby stone I put a very light coat of silicone grease on the locations where any two parts intersect then wipe off any excess. This is done annually. Between, a drop or two of light oil in those locations where it tends to drip away.

Llance
 
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