Does Anyone Lube Internals?

RemOil in a spray can ... spritz in a shot or two from top and bottom orifices and blow dry (shake off) any excess .
I've never had RemOil go gummy on me ... I have had some brand name CLP's gum up the actions of rifles and handguns .
I no longer use Break Free CLP in the actions of firearms to be set aside for a few months ...it gummed up several and had to be removed .
Still a good cleaner and outside protectant ... but RemOil goes in the actions .
Gary
 
RemOil is nice and light with Teflon. I remove side plate, spray with Gun scrubber, blow out with compressed air, RemOil and blow out again, then TW25 on rebound slide where its metal/metal and on pivot pin tips.
 
Moly lessens the trigger pull as it works into the metal sears.

Don’t put too much moly in a pistol it splatters just a little.

After moly paste is applied cycle the gun 75/100 times to work the moly into the pores.

My moly experience is from 1970. A buddy worked for dow Corning. He said try this.

My first test was a ruger security six with the normal rough trigger. It smoothed out the action and lessened the trigger pull by 50%. With just a lube.

Lubed my new Saiga 308 with moly. I shot it, opened it up wiped it clean. I forgot to relube it. The four of us hammered it at the range. On the way home I remember I didn’t lube it. Expecting the worst when I opened it up nothing was wrong it looked like new. The moly was in the pores of the metal saved my butt.

You don’t wash your gun with solvent, only the barrel. Wipe the inners dry and remoly it.

With semi auto hunting guns do the moly treatment then burnish it in wipe off the excess.

Moly
Eliminates wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights Corrosion

Oil is for the bores.
 
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Once a year I flush the internals with degreaser and blow clean and dry with compressed air. Then I coat the internals with Flunatec ceramic spray, which leaves a dry coating on the surface, lubricating and rust preventing.
Finaly I lightly lube the moving parts with Flunatec oil, which stays wet.
Every 3 months I lift the side plate and lube very lightly on the moving parts. It’s a highly tuned 686, only used for match shooting.
 
I used to have a fancy regimen involving three different lubes:
Oil for the turning parts, fancy weapons grease for the sliding parts, and "Trigger Job" sear lube for, well the sear.
Sometimes I still do that, but lately I just use a few drops of way oil. It's sticky enough to stay on a surface yet lubricates well. I figure if it's good enough for my lathe and mill in sliding and some rolling parts then it's likely fine for similar vintage technology and mechanisms that slide and roll.
For the most part, any lube is vastly better than none at all and after that you quickly get into that last 10% or 1% in discussing the ideal lube.
 
I won't bother telling you all the potential problems grease can cause -- use it long enough and you'll find them out for yourself. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the lubrication instructions you'll find in any S&W revolver owner's manual -- and their recommendations do not include grease.
 
oysterer said:
Rarely I hose it out w Ballistol and let it drip out the hammer side over a few days. Cleans out everything and keep it running very well.
Click to expand...

Same here. Seems to work fine, and have never had any issues. I also use Break free CLP. I've never had the side plate off of any of my guns, and many of them are 65 to 100+ years old. I never use grease on any of my revolvers. A real tribute to the older guns in terms of quality and workmanship.
 
ZGrand said:
"Does Anyone Lube Internals?"

Yes - chili dogs and Maker's Mark......
Click to expand...


Or a big bowl of chili, heavy on the beans, and a couple of beers. :D


I am an infrequent lubricator of revolver internal parts, lubing only after a thorough cleaning that removes old oil and grime. I do not use grease as revolvers have remarkably few parts that slide back and forth and would require grease. I am currently using Corrosion X as it is a thin oil, provides good lubrication as well as good corrosion protection.
 
a drop of Rem oil down the cocked hammer, and a drop on the cylinder stop is all I have ever had to do. A few older guns were sticky and I used Gun Scrubber without removing the side plate. I have had the side plate off of one or two of my revolvers, but if they are working ok, I prefer not to open them up. So far no problems.
 
I’ve never used any type of grease anywhere on a revolver. Most of my S&Ws have a drop or two of RemOil, or one of the non-synthetic oils used on the valves of musical instruments. Sometimes I will use Marvel’s if that’s what I’ve got handy, or even Kroil. I agree 110% with the writer above who said clean beats any given type of lube any day, all day. :)
 
First off, taking the side plate off is very easy! Use the CORRECT screwdrivers though. You can just spray with cleaner, light lube (RemOil) of choice and close up. I do use GREASE on the bottom and back of the rebound slide. I very lightly sand those areas first. It's easy to see it's worthwhile when you do it. The rebound slide comes right out with a ball point pen. [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9gn7zE5b3g"]Watch here.[/ame]
TW25 is used very lightly on sliding sides of rebound slide (bottom & back).
Evil Grease link: TW25B(R)｜Top Selling Extreme Performance Lubricant｜Synthetic Grease

BigBill said:
The hammer and trigger studs will wear first with no lube.
Click to expand...
I TW25 those pivot points too.
 
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